Page 103 ⋆ Jersey Bites

Dullboy in Jersey City

Christine Florio

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July 27, 2015

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The Garden State and the Square Mile

Karin Nastawa Ruffini

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July 24, 2015

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Hoboken is a fantastic city. It has a small-town feel with easy, fast access to one of the biggest cities in the world. We have a lot right at our fingertips. But what we could use a little more of is all that green stuff—you know grass, trees, plants—simply put, a little more nature would be great. Luckily, we have access to the bounty of produce that has earned New Jersey the title of Garden State with Hoboken’s Farmers Markets.

On Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, produce, fresh meats, eggs, and the occasional baked goods are trucked into town. Starting at the end of June and running through October, residents of the square mile can get their fill of tomatoes, corn, berries and beets, salad greens of all sorts, carrots in a rainbow of colors and the list goes on. The prices are usually very fair and you can often find organic options as well.

Here is a little more information about each of the three locations and farmers market schedule for Hoboken.

Downtown Market
When: Tuesdays, 3 p.m. to 7:30 p.m., June 26 through end of October
Where: Washington Street at Newark Street

Uptown Market
When: Thursdays, 2 p.m. to 7 p.m., June 26 through end of October
Where: Hudson Street at 13^th Street

Garden Market
When: Saturday, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., June 1 to November 23
Where: Garden Street, between 14^th and 15^th Streets

Putting it All to Good Use

Wondering what to do with all of those fresh veggies, fruits and meats? Me, too! As part of my farmers market tour, I attended a cooking class in town: the Garden Street Farmer’s Market Tour and cooking class, hosted by Hudson Table, a new culinary studio in uptown Hoboken. As part of the class we took a walk to the Saturday market to select our favorite seasonal ingredients. We prepared a feast with our zucchini, onion, squash, tomatoes, peaches, peppers, and berries.

All of the dishes were surprisingly easy to make. I consider myself a pretty good home chef, but a gentleman with whom we shared our prep table didn’t seem to know the first thing about cooking. He was able to jump in there like the rest of us, chopping, mixing and zesting to our final product. We learned some great tips—like how to cut corn kernels off the cob without making a huge mess.

I’m always drawn to the beautiful, colorful rows of produce, but sometimes struggle with how to really make a meal of them. Now, for seasons to come, I’ll have the great recipes shared by the Hudson Table team.

Below is one of the dishes we prepared and enjoyed together at the end of class. We used a mix of peppers and tomatoes because we couldn’t choose a favorite.

Summer Corn Salad

Ingredients:
Freshly cut kernels from 6 to 8 ears fresh corn
6 cloves garlic, not peeled
1 tablespoon vegetable oil, such as grapeseed, corn or olive
2 teaspoons mild chile powder, such as ancho, pasilla or Hatch
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Kosher salt
1 pound shelled soybeans (edamame, available frozen) or lima beans
2 red bell peppers, seeded and diced, or 4 plum tomatoes, seeded and diced
1 medium jicama or 1 cucumber, peeled and diced (about 1 cup)
6 scallions, white and pale green parts, thinly sliced
¼ cup crumbled Cotija or mild goat or feta cheese
¼ cup roughly chopped cilantro leaves, for garnish

For the dressing:

1 tablespoon honey
Freshly squeezed juice and zest of 5 limes (about ½ cup)
½ cup vegetable oil, such as grapeseed or corn, more to taste
¼ cup roughly chopped cilantro, preferably both white roots and green leaves
2 teaspoons kosher salt, more to taste
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Heat oven to 450°F. In a bowl, toss corn kernels and garlic cloves with the tablespoon of oil, chile powder, cumin and 2 teaspoons of salt. Spread in a sheet pan and roast 10 to 12 minutes, until fragrant and golden. Set aside to cool.
In a pot of salted boiling water, cook the beans just until crisp-tender. Drain and set aside to cool.
Make the dressing. Squeeze the roasted garlic flesh out of the papery skins into a blender. Add the honey, lime juice and zest, ½ cup oil, the cilantro roots and leaves, and salt and pepper. Blend until smooth. Taste and add more oil if the dressing is too tart.
In a serving bowl, combine the corn, beans, bell peppers, jicama or cucumbers, scallions and cheese. Pour most of the dressing over this and toss well. Taste and add more dressing, and salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle ¼ cup cilantro leaves on top and serve.

Domenico Winery: NJ Roots Reaching the West Coast

Melissa Beveridge

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July 21, 2015

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Domenico Winery: NJ Roots Reaching the West Coast

The Pinot grigio is crisp. The chardonnay is not overwhelmingly oaky. The Syrah is full bodied, and might be the best I’ve ever tasted, while the Meritage merlot is full bodied and quickly made it to my favorite hits list. What makes these wines even more spectacular, besides their impeccable flavor, is that they’re made by a New Jersey native who flew west to follow his dreams of wine.

Following in his grandfather’s footsteps, Dominick Chirichillo continued the Italian tradition of winemaking, making delicious wine in the basement. After tasting success in 1989 when his homemade Barbera took second place in an amateur competition in California, he decided to turn his passion into a business, opening up the very first wine school in the country. He opened Bacchus Winemaking Club in Toms River, named after the god of the grape harvest, winemaking, and wine (apparently he’s a lot of fun at parties because he’s also the god of ritual madness and theater).

The wine school brings Chirichillo’s passion for producing quality wines using California grapes and the Italian tradition of winemaking to the people of New Jersey in a state of the art winemaking room. Now, Bacchus Winemaking Club produces over 300 barrels of wine with customers every year using California grapes.

Chirichillo’s passion for wine didn’t stop there. In 1997, his family moved to California to learn more about winemaking and in 2001, he purchased his own eight-acre vineyard in Amador County where he grows Syrah and his flagship grape, primitivo which according to Chirichillo, “can be genetically retraced to the Italian shores of the Adriatic Sea.”

A few years later, he leased an additional 59 acres, growing eight more grape varietals including Aglianico, one of the oldest grapes in Italy, Nebbiolo, and the infamous, Sangiovese. In 2005, Chirichillo saw additional success, with the release of Domenico Winery, his first commercial brand of wine. He also brought some New Jersey flavor to California, opening up a Bacchus Winemaking Club in San Carlos.

This New Jersey native’s dream of pursuing his passion for wine has continued to grow, as he welcomes another brand, Gloria J.Wines, named after his wife, to the table. Between the two brands, you’ll find a number of refreshing and crisp whites, sweet roses and sangrias, and my favorite, medium to full bodied reds such as Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, and Super Tuscan.

“Our style of winemaking is fruit forward, big, bold reds, fresh and fruity flavors in the aromas of the grapes,” said Chirichillo been ranked seventh nationally for winemaking excellence by the American Wine Society.

“Now we make a lot of Italian varietals that sets ourselves apart from other wineries including Barbera, Nebbiolo, Montepulciano, and Nero d’Avola,” said Chirichillo, who has continued to win awards for Domenico Wines.

For those looking to get a taste of Domenico and Gloria J. in New Jersey, there are two options. The first is to head to Bacchus Winemaking Club in Toms River where you can sample, purchase, and make wines. While you’re there, sign up for the wine club, through which you’ll receive new bottles every quarter at deep discounts. Chirichillo even shared that many of the specialty wines are only available through the wine club including the flagship Primativo wines.

The second option: dine out at your favorite BYOB, including Gaetano’s in Red Bank; Brandl in Belmar; Valentino’s in Freehold, and Palazzo in Montclair (among others), and purchase wines from Domenico or Gloria J. for your meal, in half and full bottles.

Recently I had the opportunity to sample four wines, two from Domenico and two from Gloria J. at Brandl’s with Domenico Winery’s New Jersey Regional Sales Manager John Annunziata on a wet afternoon. He led me through each wine, sharing its profile, what it goes well with, and what grapes were involved. I really enjoyed all of them and as I mentioned, the Syrah was one of the best I’ve tasted.

It’s a story where the east and west meet in a beautiful and tasty collaboration of wine genius. Oh and by the way, we all have an open invitation to visit Chirichillo in California anytime. He’s always looking forward to sharing his love of wine, especially with his fellow New Jerseyans!

Bacchus Winemaking Club
1540 Route 37 West
Toms River, NJ 08755
732-505-6930

Domenico Winery
1697 Industrial Road
San Carlos, California
650-593-2335

FITfood: Convenience and So Much More

Deborah Smith, Executive Editor

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July 20, 2015

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Disclosure: This product was provided to Jersey Bites for free. As always, all views and opinions are the writer’s own.

When professionally trained chef Jason Russo started a side gig to help out a friend with a personal training studio, he didn’t expect it to be a life-changing move. But in July 2014, he left his job as an executive chef in Toms River to pursue FITfood, his prepared-meals delivery service full time.

Chef Jay — Chef Jason Russo tending to his homegrown produce outside FITFood in Sea Girt.

I first heard about FITfood through my chiropractor’s office in Long Branch. Russo, who goes by Jay, had catered a lunch there and everyone was raving about the food. I reached out to him because I thought it was a great idea and was thrilled to find out his home base is just about two miles from me. With menu items like quinoa meatloaf, jerk spiced chicken, and vegetable frittata, I just had to sample FITFood.

Jay personally dropped off my first delivery and we chatted for quite a while about FITfood and his passion for eating clean and sourcing locally. (When I say passion, I am putting it mildly.) Chef Russo is on a mission and his energy and enthusiasm are contagious.

Here’s a brief peek into our conversation about the philosophy behind FITfood and what you can expect from this innovative service.

JERSEY BITES: What is the philosophy behind FITfood?

CHEF RUSSO: On the surface, it’s delivering ready-to-heat-and-eat meals to individuals who are time starved or simply don’t feel like shopping, prepping, cooking, and cleaning all of their own meals. But beyond that we’re trying to change the way people look at delivered meals.

Who is your typical customer?

Our customer base ranges from fitness junkies, to busy moms, to personal trainers, and more. Basically anyone trying to make a conscious effort to put good, clean food in their bodies. My favorite customers are the kids that some parents buy our food for. It’s incredibly easy for children to develop terrible eating habits at an early age, so when I hear a 7 year old loves my turkey-quinoa meatloaf and roasted Brussels sprouts, it excites me.

Where do you source your food?

In a nutshell, we try and source everything from responsible, sustainable places that are as local as possible. We work with a company that provides us access to 120 local farms in this area, and the difference is in the product. For example, an organic apple is nice, but one that was picked 48 hours ago and traveled 40 miles to get to you simply tastes better than the organic apple picked 2 weeks ago that traveled 3,000 miles to get to you. I love knowing that our eggs come from a farm in Columbus, NJ, where the hens roam freely, or that my Jersey asparagus was picked just days ago. And whether they are conscious about it or not, I think it’s something our customers enjoy as well, simply because better ingredients lead to a better product.

What’s your favorite dish on the menu?

I’m partial to our General Tso’s Chicken. I grew up inhaling the stuff from typical Chinese restaurants, and set out to re-create it in a healthy way.

How do you do it?
I lightly pan fry marinated chicken breast in a touch of coconut oil, then dress it in a sauce consisting of homemade chicken stock, fresh garlic, ginger, chiles, lemongrass, and a touch of raw honey. The stock is the body of the sauce, the garlic, ginger, and lemongrass provide great flavor, the chiles give it a little heat, and the honey provides just a touch of sweetness. It results in an amazing dish without all the sugar, sodium, and preservatives you’d get from typical takeout.

How is FITfood different from other delivery services?

We’re about so much more than creating a healthy meal based of a set of specific nutritional guidelines. By eating FITfood you’re not just helping yourself; you’re helping the local farmers we work with. You’re helping the environment, because our farmers [engage in] organic, sustainable practices. Even the food containers we use are biodegradable and earth-friendly, made from renewable resources like sugar cane and plant fiber. We’ve turned over half our property at our kitchen into a garden where we often pick ingredients the same day we use them in our meals. And we’re already looking at leasing a a plot of land to start our own FITfarm early next year.

What ingredients do you use on a regular basis and why?
Lean proteins, complex carbohydrates, and an array of vegetables are the foundation for our meals. But I try to not put ourselves in a box with regard to specific ingredients. Our weekly menu reflects the changes in the season.

A well-balanced, delivered meal is convenient and a good start. But combine that with responsible farming practices, local and fresh ingredients, all by a trained chef, and then you’ve gotten back to our roots and what food really should be about.

If you are looking for ready-made meals that you can feel really good about putting into your body, give FITfood a try. As of the date of this post, the delivery routes include all of Ocean County and as far north as Lincroft in Monmouth County, but I am sure we’ll be seeing FITfood’s territory expanding in the very near future.

Happy Anniversary, Rastelli Market Fresh

Kerry Brown

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July 19, 2015

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Happy Anniversary, Rastelli Market Fresh

Rastelli Market Fresh in Marlton celebrates its first anniversary, with a weeklong celebration featuring free food events from Monday, July 20, through Saturday, July 25. Customers can get great deals all week long, including two breakfast sandwiches for the price of one. Spa water and a 12-ounce cup of gourmet House Blend coffee will also be complimentary for all customers. In addition, each day will bring a new sampling activity, as well as sale prices on featured products.

Monday, July 20: The grill tent, featuring hot and sweet store-made sausage.

Tuesday, July 21: Bubba’s Q-Day. De-boned baby-back ribs and steaks will be served. Cookies and fruit infused water will also be offered.

Wednesday, July 22: The official anniversary! The grill will feature Rastelli Preferred Steaks, along with a selection of flavored sauces. For a refreshing mid-summer treat, Mister Softee will be at the store from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., and from 4 to 7 p.m. All Rastelli Market Fresh shoppers will get a free Mister Softee ice cream cone, as long as you can provide a receipt. Thanks to the programming of pro-logic, $10 gift cards will be given throughout the day, following every 25th sale.

Thursday, July 23: Seafood from the grill. Rastelli’s quick frozen options include swordfish, sea bass, black cod, salmon, and mahi-mahi, with marinade and glaze flavorings that run the gamut, from macadamia-chile lime, to miso, teriyaki, and pineapple salsa. A free Rastelli’s Market Fresh bag will accompany purchases of $25 of more. The produce department will feature a “Thanks for Helping us Grow” fruit and flower display. A special demonstration will also be offered by the wine and spirits department.

Friday, July 24: Stop by for a turkey, salmon or beef burger. At noon, Republic Tea will distribute free samples.

Saturday, July 25: Customer Appreciation Day. The $10 gift card giveaway returns, with every 25th transaction producing a winner. Dietz & Watson will be doing an outdoor sampling. The grill will feature Rastelli Market Fresh ribeye, with smoked tomato bleu cheese butter. A live DJ set will add to the festive atmosphere as the celebration reaches its final day.

Timing Is Everything for Jersey Peaches

Rachel Weston

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July 17, 2015

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During a recent visit to Terhune Orchards in Princeton, I unexpectedly found myself in the passenger seat of a golf cart, whizzing between seemingly endless rows of peach trees. Behind the wheel, farm owner Pam Mount drove through the narrow rows, and shared 40 years worth of insight about growing and cooking peaches. After surveying the small, fuzzy green fruits, she assured me that they would soon fatten and turn hues of gold and orange as they ripen on the trees.

New Jersey peach trees — Jersey Fresh peach trees at Eastmont Orchards, Colts Neck. -credit Rachel J Weston

Peaches aren’t much to look at early in their growing season, but in the last two weeks before harvest, they grow by leaps and bounds. Mount said one or two days can make a huge difference in the taste and size of peaches, so the orchard is monitored closely.

After taking a peek at the baby peaches, we headed back to the farm store. Just inside the door, there is a whiteboard listing all 28 peach varieties grown at Terhune, and the date their harvest started for the last few years. The neatly drawn column for 2015 remained empty, as the first harvest of this season drew closer.

When planning a farm visit for peach picking, having some background about peach varieties always helps. Peaches are either semi-freestone, meaning the pit comes away from the flesh with a bit of effort, or freestone, in which the pit easily pops out when the peach is cut in half. So at your next farmer’s market, don’t be shy; ask about what types of peaches are available that day, and if they are best for your planned recipes.

Some farms in South Jersey begin harvesting early varieties in late June. At Terhune Orchards, peach season kicks off by mid-July with Red Haven, a semi-freestone variety which are perfect for eating fresh. Delicate, fragrant white peaches are also best enjoyed simply sliced, or out of hand. Indeed, summer’s pleasures are abundant. Biting into a perfectly ripe, vibrant yellow peach, still warm from the sun, is high on my bucket list for the season.

Once you’ve calmed down from peach-induced bliss and clean up the peach juice running down your wrists, start thinking about preserving some for future use. By August, you will find more varieties that are freestone, which make faster work when putting them up.

“Almost all of the varieties in August are fantastic, but the Loring peach is the all-time favorite of people who can or freeze,” Mount said. She runs a very popular, free canning and freezing class during the first weekend of August. Putting peaches up can be time consuming and steamy, given the time needed for blanching the fruit to peel it easily or putting jars into the canning pot, so any shortcuts she can offer are welcome for all to learn.

pam-canning-wisdom-peaches — Pam Mount conducting her class – courtesy of Terhune Orchards

SAVE THE DATE

Register online for Mount’s class: August 1, 2015, from 10 a.m. to 12 p.m.

Mount shared a brilliant peach-pie-making tip: “The trouble with peaches is that you freeze them in a little container and you have all this juice when they defrost,” she said. “People either don’t freeze enough to make their recipe or have too much. What I suggest is for people to make their peach pie recipe filling with the sugar and mix it all up. Don’t do the pastry. Freeze the fruit in the pie tin overnight. Take it out of the pan and put it in a freezer bag. Then in February when you are ready for pie, make the pastry and plop in the peach filling that is the right size and shape and cook them frozen.”

Mount also suggests using tapioca flour as a thickener, rather than cornstarch or all-purpose flour. It is tasteless, doesn’t cloud the color of the fruit’s juices, and doesn’t get gummy when cooked.

Peeling Peaches — Blanched and shocked peaches ready to be peeled- credit Rachel J Weston

If you would rather freeze sliced peaches, be sure to choose a very ripe freestone variety. Dip the peaches into boiling water for a few seconds to loosen the skin, and then transfer to an ice bath. Once cooled, they are easy to peel, remove the pit and slice. To maintain the best color when freezing, Mount likes to dissolve ¼ teaspoon ascorbic acid in ½ cup cold water before pouring the mixture over 4 peaches that are sliced and sprinkled with sugar.

For canned peach halves, Mount peels them using the same method and then packs quart jars with the fruit topped off with a sugar syrup. She then processes them for 30 minutes in a hot water bath canner. Once you learn this method, you may never want to buy canned fruit again.

Jersey Fresh peaches will be widely available from mid-July to early September at farm stores, roadside stands, farmers markets, and supermarkets. Find a location near you on the Jersey Fresh website. Always call a pick-your-own farm the day you plan to visit to be sure they are picking. Learn more about peaches grown in New Jersey and events all over the state for peach festivals, parties, and pie-making competitions at www.jerseypeaches.com or the Jersey Peaches Facebook page.

Raval Opens on Restaurant Row in Jersey City

Karin Nastawa Ruffini

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July 15, 2015

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Raval Opens on Restaurant Row in Jersey City

Named after the Raval neighborhood in Barcelona, Spain, the stateside tapas dining spot in the Grove Street/restaurant row area of Jersey City, is now open and already a favorite with the locals.

Raval opened while my husband, Nick, and I were on our honeymoon, but we made plans to visit as soon as we got back. Jet-lagged or not, we couldn’t wait to check out this new place from the Restaurant Development Group (RDG), also responsible for the incredible Satis Bistro and Lucky 7 Tavern. The idea of tapas-style dining has become more and more popular on American menus and this place brings the diner back to the roots of true tapas.

Reflecting the new upscale food scene that Jersey City is quickly being recognized for, Raval truly delivers. The décor is inspired by the tapas bars of Spain – darker lighting and rustic communal tables. The addition of a hand-tiled Gaudi Park Güell-style winding bench* had me wondering if I’d mistaken the ride on the PATH train for a short flight across the Atlantic. But before I could get lost in my imagination, recalling the sounds of street musicians lining Las Ramblas, we were whisked to the back of the restaurant, which was already 65% full on a Tuesday night. A very good sign. Our waitress ran through the menu highlighting the different sized dishes – essentially small, medium and large. Nick and I began testing our marital compromising skills, choosing a few dishes from each part of the menu. We were told the dishes would come out as they were ready, rather than in courses. And within minutes, our dishes were arriving in front of us.

By far our favorites were the albóndigas – lamb meatballs in a saffron tomato sauce and the incredible cheese plate, which we enjoyed at the end of the meal. We also had the espárrago grilled asparagus with a preserved lemon and piquillo pepper sauce. While the dish had loads of flavor, the preserved lemon reminded me a little of astringent cleaner. On the positive side, I did enjoy that the dish included, in addition to the green variety, white asparagus, a vegetable I wish were on more American menus. The gambas con chorizo – one of the larger dishes – were spicy and bold, just as they should be. And finally the canelones de conejo, folded with braised rabbit leg, ricotta and mushrooms inside a thin crêpe and topped with porcini rabbit demi-glace, seemed like it might be our favorite dish of the night. With the speed of the dishes, we had asked they keep this one in the kitchen a bit longer so it didn’t get cold, but we may have waited a bit too long to request the highly anticipated dish from the kitchen. It was a bit dry for my taste, reminding me more of Thanksgiving turkey. That said, if you’re a turkey fan who hasn’t tried rabbit before, please give this one a try.

The wine list is excellent, and includes a sampling of Spanish wines, both popular and more esoteric. And the cocktail and sangria menu don’t disappoint either. And now the team also offers weekend brunch, which can be from either the a la carte menu or, for $35/pp, guests can choose the all-you-can-eat tapas brunch with $1 mimosas, sangrías, bloody marías or estrella damm drafts. A delicious deal for the Spanish-tapas lovers and curious alike.

Raval
136 Newark Avenue
Jersey City
201-209-1099

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*Gaudi Park Güell-style winding bench created by artist Audrey Ryan and local artisans G+G Interior Improvement.

July 18 and 19: Barrel Trail Weekend

Deborah Smith, Executive Editor

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July 14, 2015

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Little Town Social Opens in the Square Mile

Karin Nastawa Ruffini

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July 13, 2015

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Little Town Social Opens in the Square Mile

While Washington Street is the main drag in Hoboken, First Street has some of the best hidden gems in town. Alongside mainstays Luca Brasi’s and Sushi House, and just down the street from popular newcomer Choc-o-Pain, is the newly opened Little Town Social.

Restaurateurs Albie and Chris Manzo will reintroduce the Little Town brand to Hoboken. They have joined forces with Michael Sinensky and Sean McGarr, along with Executive Chef Sarah Sproule. Sproule has a passion for sustainability, local produce, community dining and created Urban Sproule, New York City’s first sea salt ever produced in a salt house on a rooftop in midtown Manhattan.

On an early June night, my husband Nick and I were invited to come check out the new restaurant, which opened May 7. We had watched the great exterior transformation, from the former Village Pourhouse, to the sleeker, more upscale design, and we were looking forward to checking out how the inside and menu had changed, too.

While still resembling the former sports pub layout, the vibe was quite different. With the mix of big-screen TVs, tin ceilings, chalkboard signs, and dark walls, patrons won’t mistake this new gastropub for the former occupant. And that’s just the start.

The menu is filled with shareable, bar-food-type favorites with an artisanal twist. Seasonal and local ingredients are incorporated where possible, too. We had to resist the urge to order “one of everything and settled on the still hefty order of lobster rolls, fish tacos, meatballs, shishito peppers, kimchee buns, and cheesesteak rolls. Only one week after returning from our honeymoon, we seemed to be on a mission to leave our pre-wedding diets in the very distant past.

We both agreed the shishito peppers needed more salt, so we requested a shaker. Our waitress, instead, brought Thai chili salt, crafted by Chef Sproule herself. It was fantastic! The lobster rolls and meatballs were a bit underwhelming, but I’m still thinking about the soft kimchee buns stuffed with tender, salty brisket, and the crispy, cheesy cheesesteak rolls. And with so many more dishes yet to try, we’re looking forward to returning. (We heard the Chef is always rolling out new dishes to match the seasons and local produce.)

For those looking to the bar, you’ll find a complete list of classic cocktails, along with more inventive drinks like The Mineshaft (Jameson, Aperol, Grand Marnier, sweet vermouth, and Angostura bitters). For beer lovers, there will be 30+ beers on draft with seasonal specials. Should this spot look to invest more in its generic wine list – which I really hope they do, as there are so many thirsty wine drinkers in the square mile – it may become one of our frequented dinner, drinks, and sports-watching spots.

I expect great things from the Little Town Social team and hope they find long success on First Street. The last thing Hoboken needs is another post-college dive bar and the team has clearly recognized this. Little Town Social is now open and serving the more sophisticated, yet not snobby, palate. Bon appetite!

Little Town Social
205 First Street
Hoboken

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Hops: A Growing New Jersey Industry

Peter Culos

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July 10, 2015

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Look out tomatoes, Humulus Lupulus bines could be winding their way through the Garden State soon!

Brewing beer is a lot like cooking. With that in mind, think of hops as the primary — and most versatile — spice that brewers use to season their “dish.”

While New Jersey was slow to pick up on the craft beer craze, momentum is building. According to NJ Craft Beer, there are 31 breweries in the state now with another 19 in the works. These small breweries provide fresh, locally made beer and as any beer geek will tell you, there is just about nothing better (The exception being beer that’s made with locally sourced ingredients.) Too bad the great Garden State doesn’t produce hops, right?

Except that they do.

The Keystone Development Center surveyed eight commercial hop farmers in New Jersey as part of a study that is a first step towards a possible Cooperative project. I spoke to Peggy Fogarty who is an executive director there and she explained that the center supports agriculture in New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland, and Pennsylvania. Fogarty’s expertise is in the area of cooperatives. These legal entities, also known as co-ops, are a space within which small farmers or other food cultivators band together to share production, profits, equipment, distribution, and marketing budgets. (Fogarty was part of the Heritage Shellfish Cooperative reported on by Cindy Dudas of Jersey Bites in June.)

In terms of the possibility of a New Jersey Hop Growers Cooperative, Fogarty says she thinks “It’s going to be something.” While nothing concrete exists yet, the idea is picking up steam. This past spring, the Northeast Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education Program, a regional program under the USDA National Institute of Food and Agriculture (NIFA), awarded a grant to James Simon of the Rutgers University Department of Plant Biology & Pathology for the “establishment and marketing of hops production in the mid-Atlantic.”

Rutgers team member Robert Pyne explains, “For our part, Rutgers is hoping to help facilitate growth of the hop industry in New Jersey and Pennsylvania through the investigation of best horticultural practices and distributing that information as efficiently as possible. As an additional service to growers, we will be providing chemical analysis of their hops, which is necessary in order to offer a salable product.”

A key point in Pyne’s statement is the one regarding chemical analysis. The alpha acids and essential oils in hops are responsible for the bitterness and aroma, respectively, that a particular hop produces. In order to brew a consistent product, brewers need to know those numbers. Chemical analysis is part of the solution to the problem of New Jersey hop production transitioning from being considered a novelty to becoming a bonafide staple.

No one knows that better than Beau Byrtus of Oast House Hop Farm. He’s participating in the Rutgers project and runs the largest hop farm in the state. It takes three seasons for a hop bine to reach full production and Oast House is now in its fourth. Byrtus has supplied hops to local brewers including Kane Brewing in Ocean Township and Triumph Brewing Company in Princeton (and New Hope, PA), for one-off seasonal beers. That’s great but his hops can’t be part of a year-round flagship beer if the levels of alpha acids and essential oils aren’t known within a tight tolerance.

That’s not all. While hops yield an extremely high dollar value per acre—ideal for New Jersey and its smaller farms—Byrtus still can’t afford the $100,000 or more investment he would need for drying, harvesting, and pelletizing machinery that west coast hop farms use to process and preserve their crop. This equipment enables west coast farms to distribute across the country, and without it, Oast House can’t even distribute across the state. That means he has to harvest by hand and the hops need to get to a brew kettle almost immediately. That seriously limits potential growth.

Still, Byrtus has unbridled enthusiasm for what he believes is the start of a beautiful friendship. Despite the obstacles, he still sells out his entire crop before it’s harvested. A couple of regional co-ops with shared equipment and marketing dollars could go a long way toward taking New Jersey hop farms from quaint-cottage-business status to being real players in the industry.

In the immediate future, though, the hop harvest quickly approaches. Friends and family will gather at Oast House for an event that combines hard work, a barbeque and maybe a beer tasting. Meanwhile, the folks at Rutgers and the Keystone Development Center will be hard at work, too.

Le Avenue: French Dining on the Jersey Shore

Melissa Beveridge

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July 8, 2015

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Le Avenue: French Dining on the Jersey Shore

In full disclosure, the meal was provided to me for free. As always, all views and opinions are my own.

As a person who’s lived her entire life at the Jersey Shore, one may expect that I would tend to veer away from places that, at first glance, seem like nothing more than a tourist trap. For me, that was Pier Village, until I actually ate at what may be one of the finest restaurants at the Jersey Shore—Le Avenue.

Sitting where the sand meets the land, Le Avenue is a physical presence on the boardwalk. It is a two-story building that blends the luxuries of St. Tropez, with the beautiful scenery of the Atlantic. If you’ve been there, you know this already. What you may not know is that Executive Chef Dominique Filoni is back, and he brought some world-class French cuisine along with him.

Since I had never actually dined at Le Avenue (mainly because of my misconception that it was a tourist trap), when an invitation arose to enjoy a mezcal tasting menu with Chef Filoni, I jumped at the chance.

Chef Filoni recently returned as Executive Chef of Le Avenue after a brief hiatus working in Miami. The St. Tropez, France, native’s passion for cooking is not surprising, especially his fondness for incorporating seasonal ingredients into both classic and not-so-classic French dishes. His career began in France, and now he finds himself at the Jersey Shore, earning him an induction into the Maîtres Cuisiniers de France in 2003 and recognition as one of America’s Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 2004. Tasting his delicious creations, you realize that those 10 years were well spent, as he perfected his repertoire. Okay, back to the food!

To start off the evening, Thierry Carrier, general manager and director of operations of Le Avenue, recommended a few cocktails including the lemonade, which features lemonade, homemade marmalade, smoky mezcal, and a rosemary sprig, along with the Rye Sour, an agave, rye and cognac drink, that for containing heavier-feeling liquors, was surprisingly refreshing for a warm evening. It resembled a cold ice cream shake, but super light with the perfect amount of foam. Our meal was later complemented by a light French pinot noir recommended by the sommelier.

Now onto the food. For starters, we ordered the shaved organic kale salad, along with a dish of the homemade tagliatelle (because when your dinner companions recommend pasta for appetizers, you say yes). Turns out, the French may know how to make pasta just as well as the Italians. (Sorry!) This selection tasted just as I would imagine late spring would taste like—with fresh asparagus, wild mushrooms, and spring onions.

We were surprised by Chef Filoni’s tomato tart, a new dish on the summer menu, featuring blanched and peeled plum tomatoes set on a flattened puff pastry and garnished with olive oil, sugar, and salt. For me this dish exemplified Chef Filoni’s commitment to combining quality ingredients in a beautiful and yet simple presentation. We also dug into the Dungeness crab salad, which was recently added to the menu. If you’re looking for a crunchy, creamy, light seafood dish, order this. (The reason you may fall in love with it is the Banyuls vinegar, a red wine vinegar made from Banyuls sweet French wine).

And there was more. Chef Filoni continued to wow us with another homemade pasta dish featuring lumps of king crab, the leaf of broccoli rabe, tarragon, fresh lime, chervil, lemon, and one of my favorite ingredients, bottarga. What was so apparent throughout the meal was Chef Filoni’s commitment to fresh vegetables, seafood, and homemade ingredients.

Our main course consisted of the duck steak, which Chef Filoni prepared in what I learned was a summer version of the original menu item. Two pieces of perfectly cooked duck, seasoned to perfection, on a bed of baby potatoes cooked in duck fat, lollipop kale, and a sprinkling of Maynard pickled cherries. It was rich. It was decadent. It was delicious. Add on a French class, boeuf bourguignon, and steak frites and I had myself a meal worthy of the best brasserie in Paris.

And if that wasn’t enough, we ended the night on a sweet note. Pastry Chef Stuart Marx delighted our taste buds with profilteroles, a white chocolate raspberry Napoleon, and toasted coconut cake drizzled with mango salsa and kaffir Anglaise.

After this dinner, actually after my first bite in, I realized I should have never judged this book by its cover. This local will brave the crowds this summer just to eat any creation that Chef Filoni has in mind. As for you, I suggest heading down to Le Avenue and trying out the must-have summer menu.

Le Avenue
23 Ocean Avenue
Long Branch
732-759-2900

Cowan’s Public in Nutley

Terry Krongold

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July 7, 2015

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I spent a leisurely afternoon at Cowan’s Public a couple of Saturdays ago, soaking up the cool retro vibe, chatting with the two brothers who own the place, and enjoying the delicious food. This is not your typical bar food, my friends. There are no mozzarella sticks or onion rings on this menu. This is bar food kicked up a notch or two (or three). Exhibit A: What bar do you know that serves perfectly cooked pan-seared Brussels with a Champagne mustard vinaigrette and shallots? Exhibit B: Chipotle deviled eggs (lusciously creamy with slight heat at the back). And a kickin’ burger with bacon-onion jam, sharp white cheddar, house-made pickle, and sriracha on a Balthazar brioche roll! I rest my case.

Owned by Tom and Dean Maroulakos, they both have experience working in the bar/restaurant industry in New York City, and Dean has a design background. They set their sights on an area fixture – the Nutley Pub. The bar, which had gone through a few owners and incarnations since it was opened in 1934, had fallen into serious disrepair. Anybody else would have been overwhelmed by the amount of work needed to turn this post-prohibition bar into something that today’s savvy customer would want to spend time in. But Tom and Dean took it on, and doing most of the renovation themselves, have transformed it into a modern day bar/restaurant but with a nod to its heritage. No detail has been overlooked. From the curved art deco bar to the restored tin ceiling, to the authentic artifacts that are sprinkled about, these two know what they’re doing.

The proprietors have installed experienced bartenders who are passionate about their job. They want to educate their customers but in a fun way. In addition to a rotating selection of craft beers and ciders, they have some great signature cocktails (I had a terrific Mojito the day I visited), and a nice wine selection. Next time, I’ve got my sights set on their Strawberry Airmail cocktail, made with Real McCoy rum, muddled strawberry, lime juice, honey syrup, and topped with Prosecco.

On the food front, the kitchen is headed by Justin Caldwell (formerly of Upstairs in Montclair). Justin has developed a terrific menu of small plates made for sharing (such as the Brussels Sprouts and Deviled Eggs mentioned above). They will begin to introduce some larger entrée plates this month.

terry 18311313850_52d964441d_z — Summer salad

On a subsequent visit, I tried the summer salad, which includes watercress, marinated tomato, quinoa, roasted chickpeas, charred corn, and grilled haloumi cheese, with a sherry vinaigrette. I added some nicely charred shrimp to round it out and with a glass of crisp sauvignon blanc, it was the perfect late spring dinner.

While Cowan’s Public is keeping the brothers plenty busy, this dynamic duo already has another project in the works. They are in the process of developing a farmhouse-type restaurant in Clifton. They will be renovating an 8,000 square foot former restaurant and outfitting it with a post and beam bar, outside garden, and seating for 150 people. They are targeting early 2016 for the opening. While Cowan’s is set up more as a bar/restaurant, the focus for Clifton will be food heavy. Sounds good to me.

My bottom line: don’t go to Cowan’s Public if you’re looking for one of those faux gastropubs. But if you’re looking for inventive, well-cooked food, dynamite cocktails, and a cool place to relax, managed by the personable Maroulakos brothers, discover Cowan’s – the “un-gastro” pub.

Cowan’s Public
229 Centre Street
Nutley
973-542-8151

Open Monday through Friday, 4 p.m. to 2 a.m.
Saturday, Sunday: 12 p.m. to 2 a.m. (Sunday brunch: 12 p.m. to 4 p.m.)
Hours subject to change.

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