Between the boulevard and boardwalk, something fresh is happening in Seaside Heights. Over the summer, farm-to-table eatery Free Range opened its doors, serving locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Owned by Rick Lee, whose family also owns the popular Chinese bistro Xina in Toms River, this seasonal spot serves up the freshest ingredients for early risers and midday snackers at the beach.
Although the restaurant is closed for the season, Lee and his team at Free Range are throwing five course pop-up dinners where the fare highlights the flavors of the season and is paired with a variety of wines! As a tried-and-true farm-to-table foodie, I jumped at the opportunity to attend a dinner at Free Range, where I was delighted to see Lee and Executive Chef Paul Keyser’s concept come to life.
When my friend and I arrived for the pop-up wine dinner, we were greeted with a freshly poured glass of champagne (which all appropriate greetings should include!). Then we were greeted by Lee himself, shook some hands, and were seated at a long family-style table. The ambiance was bright and airy.
Appetizer
Flatbread with Honey Goat Cheese and Port Infused Fig (pictured at top)
Lee reappeared table-side with an appetizer. We split a family-style honey goat cheese and fig flatbread with the party next to us while sipping on our champagne. As a huge fan of honey goat cheese, I was excited to see this ingredient. The flavor profile in this cheese complemented the caramelized onions, figs, and drizzle of balsamic perfectly.
First Course
Diver Scallops and Berkshire Pork Belly | Wine Pairing: Chardonnay, Imagery 2016, Sonoma County, CA
Our glasses were filled with a Sonoma County Chardonnay and then the first course was served. Scallops and pork belly—need I say more? The presentation was simple: the scallops sat a top the pork belly and underneath a simple puree. The scallops were sweet and the pork belly was crispy. Things started off very, very well.
Second Course
Roasted Quail and Egg | Wine Pairing: Merlot, Cakebread 2009, Napa, CA
Which comes first—the chicken or the egg? In this case, it really doesn’t matter. Chef Keyser’s roasted quail and egg dish was texturally on point. The flavors came together very well and the addition of both green and white asparagus spears was a nice touch! Paired with a merlot, it was a superb second course.
Third Course
Colorado Lamb Loin and Root Vegetables | Wine Pairing: Cabernet Sauvignon, Slow Press 2014, Pasa Robles, CA
The root vegetables and lamb loin were cooked to perfection. The savory taste and notes of vanilla and black pepper in the Pasa Robles Cabernet complemented the components of this dish as well.
Fourth Course
Chocolate Mousse and Mandarin Orange | Wine Pairing: Petit Syrah, “Sweet Velvet” Prospero 2008, CA
When it comes to pairings chocolate and orange is not one of my favorites, but I very much enjoyed this dish. The chocolate mousse was light and airy. The mandarin orange was warm and bright. The perfect ending to a fantastic meal!
For more information about Free Range, visit the website and make sure to follow them on Instagram to find out when they will be hosting more pop-ups and events!
A few years back, I happened to taste one of the most exquisite macarons—outside Paris—I had ever tried. Fast forward another year and I was able to indulge in a piece of cake that was as stunning to eat as it was to look at. A few months later I learned that those two experiences happened to be brought into the world by the same woman: and one with whom I graduated high school. Since those first few delicious encounters, Gina Roselle-Broschart’s business, The Vintage Cake, which she owns with partner and fellow pastry chef, Nancy Lee, has grown. They recently established a storefront in Atlantic Highlands. (Above, Lee is pictured on the left, and Roselle-Broschart is on the right.)
Mayor Rhonda Le Grice does the honor of cutting the ribbon for the grand opening.
Open for Business
On Monday, November 28, The Vintage Cake opened its doors on 1st Avenue in Atlantic Highlands, New Jersey, joining a growing array of businesses that deliver unique offerings, from IPA from Carton to Southwestern dishes from Copper Canyon to juice from newcomer Jus Organic, and they fit right in.
“We’ve been searching for a space for over a year and when we saw this kitchen in Atlantic Highlands, we knew we couldn’t let it pass,” said Roselle-Broschart, the former executive pastry chef at Somerset Park’s The Palace and Red Bank’s Antoinette Boulangerie. “It’s a great street to be a part of and we’ve really just fallen in love with the business owners.”
The feeling is definitely mutual. Over 120 people came to wish Roselle-Broschart and Lee the best in their endeavor as they officially opened their doors for business. From elaborate cakes on display (no, you can’t eat them), to a kitchen that is ready to keep baking up some of the finest desserts in the area, the space is warm and inviting.
Taste and You’ll See
The newly opened shop will be home to tastings for weddings as well as brainstorming sessions with clients looking to create The. Perfect. Cake. In the future, hopes to host both large and small hands-on classes for amateur bakers, to help them learn professional techniques to use at home.
“We’ve both taught and we’ve both been executive pastry chefs, so we not only know our craft, but we want to share it with others,” said Roselle-Broschart. “Honestly, there’s nothing hidden about how we do things, we’re just doing it right and not cutting any corners. That makes all the difference.”
One bite of any cake or dessert from the pair and you’ll become cake snob as well (Roselle-Broschart said they’ve successfully ruined their friends and family, who have become cake connoisseurs). True to their word of “treating every cake as a dessert,” the pair bakes up the highest quality treats using only natural, raw ingredients (no mixers or pre-made items here). What has come out of their kitchen tastes just as good as it looks. Aiming for “perfection in design and taste,” they want to exceed everyone’s expectations of what they’ll find in a dessert.
Professional Presentation
For these professionally trained Pastry Chefs , the inside of the cake is just as important as the outside, and if you get a chance to check out their Instagram, you’ll soon be drooling. Inspired by the “timeless beauty of vintage design,” The Vintage Cake is not turning out boring cakes, instead their cakes and desserts are timeless. With wedding cakes featuring beautifully crafted flowers to sculpted cakes that are a bit more whimsical, they’ve proven that they’re not only at the top of their game as professional pastry chefs, but true artists as well.
Whether you decide on a classic vanilla sponge cake with a traditional Tahitian vanilla buttercream filling or you fancy it up with curds, compotes, and ganaches, their cakes and desserts—think French macarons, petit fours, gourmet cupcakes, and custom sugar cookies—will turn you into a fan.
With accolades from The Knot to Style Me Pretty and Wedding Wire, as well as local chefs from Dish, Graze Restaurant, and Joe Leone’s, it’s no surprise that after three years of building their business, Roselle-Broschart and Lee have become a duo to know for those in the know. Now, they’re ready to expand and get everyone to always say yes to cake. (So I suggest that you e-mail them ASAP to get your order in!)
The Vintage Cake 171 1st Avenue Atlantic Highlands, NJ 732-872-2253
I’ve been to homebrew competitions. I’ve also been to more than my share of beer tastings. Beer pairings? Yup, I’ve been to those, too.
One event that includes all three? That was a new one for me.
Gettin’ Crafty
For the Love of the Craft (FLOC) was held on November 18 at the White Meadow Lake Country Club in Rockaway. It’s a homebrew competition by day and a beer pairing dinner by night. The twist is that the participating homebrew clubs each collaborate with a pro brewer to design and brew a beer for the event. Then Chef Chris Masey, well known for his ability to cook for—and with—beer, conjures up his kitchen magic.
I had a few questions for Nell Conway, who handles public relations for the event and is an integral part of it. Here’s what she had to say.
JERSEY BITES: How did the event start? NELL CONWAY: The event was founded in 2015 while Chef Chris Masey and Nell Conway were working together at Nicole’s Ten Restaurant in Randolph, New Jersey. Nicole’s Ten, or 10n, had been the home of MASH (Morris Area Society of Homebrewers) meetings for about a year, during which Nell and Chris became truly inspired by the passion and creativity shared amongst the home-brewing community. The club approached 10n to host their annual Motown Mash Homebrew Competition and Nell and Chris wanted to take the average competition experience to the next level with hosting a celebratory dinner to follow the competition awards ceremony. The dinner would bring a creative twist to the average beer dinner by adding an element of surprise to the food, beer and experience while showcasing the incredible talents of the brewing community of New Jersey.
Whose idea was it? This has been a collaborative experience from the very beginning. The concept, name, experience, food and beer have always been a collaboration between Chris Masey, Nell Conway, MASH, additional homebrewers and pro brewers.
Does Chris make the menu to match the beer or is it the other way around? It starts with the homebrew clubs. At a club meeting they work together to decide on a recipe for the beer. All that Chef Chris asks is that each club brews a different style. The homebrewers then approach a brewery of their choice and continue the collaboration process with an official brew day. From there, Chris receives the ingredients and recipes of the beer and then works with Nell to conceptualize a dish. The first draft of all food recipes take into account the clubs & breweries personality and stories shared from the brew day. The food recipes are finalized when we receive the beer itself and fresh local ingredients the week of the event.
The Experience
To get the homebrewer’s perspective on FLOC, I tapped Karl Weiss, who is the president of MASH. Club members met with the brewers at Twin Elephant Brewing for a brainstorming session, which resulted in a wide range of ideas. “Ultimately we realized that we wanted to focus on local ingredients,” Weiss said. In the end they decided on a saison, which included malt from Deer Creek Malting in Glen Mills, PA, honey from Eco Bee Supply, which has hives along the Passaic River, over 100 pounds of cranberries from Samson’s Fruit Farm in Hammonton, NJ, yeast from East Coast Yeast, and nugget hops from Rutgers Farm Extension.
“Scott McLusky, TEB’s head brewer, came up with the recipe that MASH brewers then fine-tuned,” Weiss explained.” A few weeks later about 10 club members gathered at the brewery to help out in the brew session. The opportunity for homebrewers to brew on the pro equipment is really the best part of the collaboration experience.” Club members also enjoyed how Chef Chris complimented their creation with a duck Sloppy Joe that played on the beer’s cranberry addition. “It was hard to tell where the flavors from the dish stopped and the beer began” was how Karl felt. I don’t think I could argue that point.
The food was served family style on long rows of tightly packed tables which was intentionally done to promote dialog among homebrewers, pros, and beer fans. For me, FLOC was a little sweaty, a little raucous exuberance, and a lot of education. It personifies what craft beer should be. Yes, we should take it seriously, but not so much so that we can’t have a little fun, too. I would love to see more events like this one pop up around the state.
Chef Chris Masey and team
Keep an eye on their website for next year. In the meantime, you can get a taste of the beers at Poor Henry’s in Boonton or visit Sona 13 for Chef Masey’s beer-inspired dishes—and a great beer list as well.
Flounder Brewing with Garden State Homebrewers
Here’s a list of participating homebrew clubs and the breweries they worked with:
Looking forward to New Year’s Eve? Mark your calendar and celebrate in style at the Harborside in Jersey City! Party the night away facing gorgeous NYC skyline views as you await the countdown. The event includes a five-hour premium open bar, food, and a live DJ.
For a little extra comfort, book a VIP table. You’ll enjoy a sit-down dinner, bottle and table service, as well as priority admission.
The Chef and the Eats
To stay fueled all night you’ll need to satisfy your hunger, and this event’s offerings will not disappoint. Acclaimed chef Leah Cohen, who you may recognize from Top Chef, will supply amazing bites from her latest local eatery, Piggyback Bar, located in the Harborside Atrium. Cohen is also the chef and owner of Pig and Khao, in downtown Manhattan. Her menus feature Southeast Asian flavors that incorporate Western technique. The recipient of a 2013 StarChefs Rising Stars Award, Cohen and her restaurants have been covered in New York Times, New York Magazine, The Huffington Post,Eater, and more.
Event Details
The event takes place from 9 p.m. December 31, 2017, to 2 a.m. January 1, 2018.
General admission is $125 and includes the open bar, food, a complimentary campaign toast and festive party favors. Use promo code JERSEYBITES to get $50 off each ticket you order.
For VIP pricing, please email [email protected]. Prices are determined by group size.
For additional details and to purchase tickets, visit the event site here.
Earlier this week, I had the great pleasure of test driving Chef Bryan Gregg’s tasting menu at the Orama Chef’s Counter. If you’ve followed my food adventures, you’ll know I’m a big fan of Chef Gregg and while I was sad to hear his Montclair restaurant, Escape, close a year ago, I’m thrilled to see him in such a gorgeous space in a prime location.
The Space
Orama is simply grand. There are amazing Hudson River and Manhattan views that get better as the sun sets. I’m especially impressed with the view of the George Washington Bridge: lit up and spectacular. Beyond the views, the setting is beautiful. Orama collaborated with Alex J. Morales, a talented muralist and artist from Uruguay, to create stunning interior and exterior art pieces.
The first floor features a backlit, blue quartz bartop, a grand piano where live music acts play and table/bar seating ideal for happy hour and cocktails. In warm months, the first floor opens to a patio area, steps away from the Hudson River. The color palette of the first floor complements the waterviews—tones of blues and pale gray marble.
The marble continues on a grand staircase leading up to the main dining room. “Wow” seems to be the appropriate response when the dining room comes into view. There are floor-to-ceiling glass panel windows providing amazing views from three sides of the building. Furniture is of the best quality, with white Italian chairs everywhere except at a large art deco-inspired table for eight guests in the center of the space.
There is a private dining room on the second floor with seating for 10 and audio/video capabilities perfect for a business meeting or small private event.
The open kitchen is expansive and offers a glimpse into the culinary world. The kitchen features the Chef’s Counter, where we sat during our visit.
The Food & Drinks
I’d been to Orama for à la carte dinner and that was wonderful, but the Chef’s Counter tasting takes the experience to the next level. I’ve enjoyed Chef Gregg’s tasting menu many times prior to Orama, but he’s outdoing himself at this new venue.
Following is the menu Executive Chef Gregg and Sous Chef Mike Smithling crafted for our group, using the most pristine ingredients available and based on our preferences:
Aged ham amuse
Chicken skins
Urchin
Amuse bouche: 24-month aged mountain ham over apple. This bite set the tone for the rest of the meal. Ham aged that long takes on a bit of funk and the pairing with the crisp, tart apple was very smart.
Osetra caviar, chicken skin, sour cream. Come on, fried chicken skin with caviar and sour cream? Pork—fried, salty, creamy—brilliant.
Smoked yellowfin, smoked ponzu, charred radish. The charred radish was tucked into the fold of the ultra fresh tuna which was lightly smoked. Beautiful, great texturally and of course, tasty.
Sea urchin and wasabi root. Uni is my favorite food item. I was delighted when I saw this version designed in a roll that had me closing my eyes and taking a moment.
Tuna
Beef tartare
Scallop and foie
Ostrich
A5 Japanese beef tartare, quail yolk, yeast crackers. Neatly presented on a bed of lentils, this “chip” was everything: beefy, slightly fatty, unctuous from the yolk on a cracker that kept its crispiness under pressure.
Glazed scallop in foie butter. The bite of the evening, in my opinion. Chef Gregg is a master at seafood, especially scallops (he did win the Best Seafood Chef in NJ title a couple years ago, after all) and these scallops were cooked to perfection in foie gras butter then topped with a seared piece of foie gras. Knee-buckling bite.
Ostrich roasted over red cedar. The ostrich was served rare, my favorite meat temperature, with aromas of smoky red cedar permeating the dish. A smart display and meaty goodness.
Persimmon red wine sorbet. What a great way to segue from savory to sweet. Creative presentation for the sorbet in a frozen persimmon.
Persimmon
Pear dessert
Pear, smoked vanilla ice cream, ginger crunch. I love pears and this dessert took me back to my childhood when my mother prepared many pear desserts for us. Playful use of ginger crunch with a moist cake packing big pear flavors and vanilla-scented ice cream. Tuck me in, I’m a happy girl. This was pure comfort food, artistically presented.
Cheese course
Chef ended the experience with a great slice of blue cheese from Wisconsin with a piece of toast. I’ll take cheese over dessert anytime and this was a great way to end the meal and to finish my last sip of red wine and of Sauternes.
Chef Gregg
Orama has a creative cocktails list and an extensive wine list. We enjoyed several wines, including a 2005 Sauternes that paired beautifully with the foie gras course and the cheese.
Reservations for the Chef’s Counter can be made over the phone—be sure to note that you’re looking for the tasting menu and the counter. There are four comfortable seats at the counter with a view directly into the kitchen. Prices for the tasting vary based on the number of courses guests want to experience. Wine pairings are available to match the food served.
Orama
595 River Road
Edgewater, NJ 07020
201-945-2020
Over the years, we’ve been obsessed with everything from avocado toast to cupcakes on a stick to bacon on, well, pretty much everything. While some obsessions prove to be short lived, others stand the test of time. The smoothie bowl is clearly a fit for the latter category.
The Skinny on the Smoothie Bowl
For those of you who have yet to experience a smoothie bowl, let me catch you up. Basically, it’s exactly what it sounds like—the makings of a delicious smoothie, in a bowl. The mixture combines all the components of your traditional smoothie—fruits, vegetables, nut milk, nut butter, protein powder, and more—but instead of being sippable, it’s scoopable. This thicker base is then topped with crunchy, creamy, and nutty additions that will make you rethink your morning routine: Glass vs. bowl. Straw vs. spoon.
So now you may be thinking, OK, a smoothie in a bowl, topped with granola, fresh fruit, honey, chocolate— it sounds delicious, but what’s the big deal? Well, if you’ve had any time to check out Instagram lately, you’ll soon find out that while taste is important, it’s also all about the presentation. Served with styling in mind, smoothie bowls have become foodie works of art.
Playa Bowls
Not only are food bloggers and stylists taking over social media with their perfectly laid-out lines of bananas, strawberries, hemp seeds, and granola, but so are many New Jersey-based shops, including the smoothie-bowl juggernaut, Playa Bowls.
With over 17 locations in New Jersey and now two in New York City, what started out as a dream to own a small business in Belmar, just across from the ocean (hence, Playa Bowls), turned into a Jersey Shore phenomenon. Owners Rob Giuliani and Abby Taylor, both Belmar residents, wanted to bring the benefits of acai (pronounced ah-sah-EE) back home from their surfing adventures around the world. After testing out recipes with friends and family, they brought their bowls to a storefront, offering a limited acai bowl menu with some sippable smoothies. Fast forward a few years and the Playa Bowls combination of fun-loving Aloha beach vibes and delicious bowl combinations made with high quality products have turned them into a huge success.
Ingredients are Everything
The deep purple acai berries give your body a burst of antioxidants (surpassing that of strawberries and blueberries), as well as vitamin A, calcium, fiber, and oleic acid (found in olive oil to help your insides run smoothly). If that’s not enough, they team up with anthocyanin, which shares properties with red wine. In addition, other popular superfood ingredients include pitaya, aka dragon fruit, a gorgeous bright pink fruit that’s rich in magnesium, iron, antioxidants, fiber, vitamin C, and B vitamins. Top it all off with other healthy ingredients like hemp seeds (improve dry skin), goji berries (high in vitamins A and C), chia seeds (known as a runner’s food), and even Nutella (which isn’t healthy, but hey, we all deserve a little treat in our life)!
Where Else to Find Them
From Dean’s Natural Food Market to Frutta Bowls (with eight locations across NJ), The Herd Juicery, and more, smoothie bowls are reigning supreme. With every shop bringing its own spin to the craze, there’s literally a bowl for everyone out there. Whether you’re looking for an after-school snack, breakfast on the go, or even a meal for your little one (my 15-month old son devours the bowls—kale and all!), you can find a bowl pretty much anywhere in the Garden State.
Some Playa Bowls favorites include the classic Pura Vida, featuring pure acai topped crunchy granola, fresh blueberries, strawberries, and sweet honey. There’s also the Electric Mermaid, featuring a pitaya blend topped with all your favorite aloha fruit: kiwi, pineapple, mangos, and coconut.
If you’re near Frutta Bowls, don’t miss out on the Hulk Bowl, which contains pretty much everything to make you feel like a superhero: kale, banana, pineapple, almond milk, whey protein, granola, strawberries, blueberries, peanut butter, and honey.
If you haven’t checked out the smoothie bowl scene yet, there’s no better time to up your game. Turns out, if you’re not eating them with a spoon, you’re missing out!
This year, I hosted my very first Friendsgiving and I think I’m way behind the trend. It’s become a pre-Turkey Day tradition for people everywhere—even Sesame Street celebrates!
The Friends
Ever since meeting Grace and Greg Mazzatta of Port Coffee Roasters at our local farmer’s market, Peter Culos—my fiancé and partner in Jersey Bites adventures—and I have been looking for an excuse to hang out with them. Their coffee is amazing (I’m a huge fan of their Nitro Brew) and they’re just real, cool, fun people.
When you have a party, you always try to pick friends you think will have common interests. With this in mind, my second invite went out to Rachel Weston and her husband, Shawn.
Rachel is a fellow cookbook author as well as a chef and culinary educator. She’s funny, down to earth, and a serious locavore. I knew we’d all geek out over the food and the company.
The Cocktail
I assigned Peter the job of developing a signature cocktail for the evening and I have to say, he did not disappoint. It’s one part Jersey, one part fall, and all parts delicious. The recipe is below the photo.
Jersey Harvest
1 oz. Laird’s Applejack
2 oz. Ironbound Devil Harvest Cider (or regular cider with splash of cranberry juice)
1 tablespoon maple syrup
Dash of orange bitters (optional) Flamed Orange Twist (rub around rim of rock glass)
Combine all ingredients except orange peel in a shaker with ice. Stir and strain into a rocks glass over ice. Finish with Flamed Orange Twist.
The Food
Here’s a quick list of the menu items we enjoyed. Read on for the delicious details of each one.
For the main event, the big bird (no not THE Big Bird), I decided to try something different. I stumbled on a recipe in the Costco Connection magazine, of all places: turkey cut into eight parts, brined overnight then slathered with a rub of parsley, sage, garlic, lemon zest and red pepper flakes. Pretty amazing. You can check out the recipe here, which was originally from Carla Hall’s Cooking with Love; Comfort Food That Hugs You.
The turkey was really delicious. My only issue was that the recipe is very labor intensive. My plan for this Thanksgiving is to have the turkey spatchcocked (thank you, Whole Foods) and just follow the recipe from there. No carving. Although, I have to say Rachel did a lovely job of carving and plating said pieces, don’t you think?
Another highlight of the menu was a staple on our annual Thanksgiving table: Bobby Flay’s cranberry-serrano relish. This is honestly one of my favorite things about Thanksgiving dinner.
I also tried, for the first time, J. Kenji López-Alt’s classic sage and sausage stuffing, which was a big hit. Be sure you’re stocked up on stock for this recipe. That dried bread is the perfect sponge for some good, homemade stock. As we all know, chicken or turkey stock saves the turkey day in so many ways.
Rachel brought a roasted broccoli with smoked gouda cheese saucedish that was devine. She was kind enough to share her recipe with us.
Roasted Broccoli with Smoked Gouda Cheese Sauce
Serves 6 to 8
Ingredients:
1 large head broccoli
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Kosher salt and black pepper
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons all purpose flour
2 cups milk
2 cups smoked gouda cheese, grated
Directions:
Preheat oven to 375°F.
Cut broccoli stems and florets into spears. Lay them on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil, pepper flakes, salt, and pepper.
Roast until easily pierced with the tip of a knife and a little crispy on edges—about 25 minutes. Turn halfway through cooking.
For the sauce:
Melt the butter in a saucepan.
Whisk in the flour to make a roux. Whisk constantly, until a smooth paste forms and it begins to smell nutty and looks golden.
Slowly whisk in the milk, breaking up any lumps in the roux.
Bring to a simmer and cook until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Add the smoked gouda and whisk until fully combined.
Season with salt and pepper, to taste.
Spoon the cheese sauce over the broccoli and serve.
For dessert, I went no-fuss with a cannoli chip and dip platter.
Grace preparing pour overs
It paired perfectly with a big treat for the end of the evening: fresh coffee from Port Coffee Roasters. Our wonderful friends brought their beans, grinder, kettle, and even spring water to make us all the perfect pour overs. We also got a great lesson on the art of coffee making and the many nuances of coffees from around the world.
I think the party was a success. (You can always tell when your guests remind you about their leftovers container in the fridge.)
If you decide to try any of these recipes or host a Friendsgiving of your own in the future, I’d love to hear about it. Share a photo and tag me on Instagram, Twitter, orFacebook: @JerseyBites.
Clémence Danko. Photo credit: LN Photographie by Helene McGuire
Born and raised in France, Clémence Danko cannot go a single day without bread. Typical of most French people, she eats it with every meal, and going to her neighborhood bakery to buy bread and pastries every morning has always been part of her daily ritual. When she moved with her husband to Hoboken, NJ, from Paris in 2009, and was hard pressed to find a fresh baguette or croissant, her inevitable fate was to bring a French boulangerie to her new neighborhood. She left her career in pharmaceuticals, and set off on a path to bring a little bite of Paris to Hoboken.
Danko began by getting a degree in culinary management from the Institute of Culinary Education in New York City. Upon graduation, she went on to take an intensive bread baking course at the International Culinary Center (formerly the French Culinary Institute), which has the only accredited professional bread baking program in the U.S. Clémence worked at Le Pain Quotidien in New York City to gain hands-on experience working with customers, making coffee and learning about superb service.
It was on the last day of bread class that Danko found out that she was expecting her first child. Two years and one child later, in January 2012, Choc·O·Pain Hoboken was born and Danko had two “babies” to nurture. In March 2013, she opened a second location in downtown Jersey City, and was again, expecting a baby.
Danko is guided by her passion for simple traditional French food, in combination with her strong belief that cooking should be based on using only the highest quality and freshest local-when-possible ingredients. As the proprietor of three Choc·O·Pain locations, including a newly opened production facility, and soon a fourth location, Danko takes seriously her role as an environmentally-responsible business owner. She loves the neighborhood(s), the sense of community, and the role she now plays in bringing the French lifestyle experience west of the Hudson River.
In April 2015, she was honored to receive ICC’s Outstanding Alumni Award for Excellence in Bread Baking.
Petit Kouign
Early Days
JERSEY BITES: What is your earliest food memory?
CLÉMENCE DANKO: An ice cream instead of a cake for my third birthday, in a ski resort, it was whatever we could find because of where we where but I was actually super excited about that non-conform birthday cake and I have a great memory of that day!
When did you know you wanted to open a professional bakery—any “aha” moments?
I always knew I would be working around food, in the hospitality world, as it was a passion from my childhood on. When I moved to the U.S. from France, we could not find a good French bakery in the Hoboken area where we lived. This was my “Aha” moment that inspired me to change my career path (out of the pharmaceutical industry) and pursue further education to open my own French Bakery and Café and offer the fresh baked, delicious French products I grew up with.
You’ve been expanding. What’s your business going to look like in five years?
That I don’t know yet, but it looks like we are going to expand a little bit more in this area, opening another few locations, providing our amazing products to a few more neighborhoods. We also want to expand our catering business and wholesale business as well, while growing as a responsible and respectful company—employees, environment, communities, and more.
What People Want
What are some of the most popular items sold or requested at the stores?
Chocopains—chocolate croissants or “pain au chocolat” as we call them in France—are our most popular items, closely followed by croissants and petit kouigns which became one of our specialties. As for savory, our sandwiches are a big hit, starting with the spicy tuna, my own recipe which makes me very proud. Bread wise, it’s the baguette but also the five-grain sourdough, Pain aux Cereales.
Five-grain bread
What is the greatest opportunity that has come from owning the bakeries?
I’ve had some wonderful and rewarding moments from being an entrepreneur, a food business owner. Bringing pure and simple joy to our guests through food is one of them. For example, when people don’t know what to expect and bite into one of our products and I see their faces light up, I see it in their smiles, in their eyes—this keeps me going.
Danko’s Personal Side
Describe the most memorable meal you’ve had.
I have several outstanding-meal memories, but the one standing out must be a Saint Pierre dish, that I had in the restaurant Le Divellec in Paris, fifteen years ago with my parents, truly the best fish I ever had, so delicate, perfectly cooked and with such well-balanced flavors.
It’s your last day on earth, what would your final meal be?
My mom’s pot au feu is one of the best things in the world. It’s such a complex and time-consuming meal to prepare. She does it for me every time I go home to France, with the dilemma of cooking the meat in the broth where the vegetables cooked to get their flavor, or cooking the vegetables in the broth where the meat cooked to get its flavor. The broth, the bone marrow, the oxtail, the very strong mustard, the coarse salt, the cornichons—she puts so much love into it, its one of a kind of life-food experience.
What’s the best advice you have to share with young people interested in becoming bakers?
First, I would say is that being a baker and being an entrepreneur-manager of a business are two very different things, keep your focus on what you are good at, find other people who can do what you can not do so well.
Secondly, I would say, stay simple, true to yourself, to your concept but stay curious and open to new things, new ways of doing [things], new flavor combinations, always coming back to your concept and what makes it yours.
Lastly, I would say, don’t cut corners. Use quality ingredients as if you were feeding your family.
Where do you enjoy dining in New Jersey?
There are too many to name, most are in Hoboken and Jersey City—more in Jersey City actually, but I had one of the most pleasant culinary experiences in New Jersey at the Kitchen at Grove station, in Jersey City when it was still open, a few years ago. They had a really delicious menu, original, and very well executed.
Looking Ahead
Are you working on any upcoming projects our readers would be interested in learning about?
Yes, we are excited to share that we are about to add a fourth location in uptown Hoboken (in the Tea Building) by the end of the year. In addition, we have just added new baking classes in our original downtown Hoboken location. And, in that same downtown Hoboken location, we have added made-to-order sandwiches and salad to provide customers with more flexible lunch options. We have also added delivery service through Postmates.
Note: Our writer was invited to this event and received a complimentary meal.
Chef Zod Arifai is back at it, to the delight of his loyal fans, including me. If for some reason you’ve not heard of Arifai, he spent over 10 years at the top of the New Jersey food scene with his award-winning Montclair restaurants, Blu and Next Door. After closing the two popular restaurants in 2015, and after a hiatus where he cooked at some of the best kitchens around the world, Chef Zod has returned to New Jersey, specifically in quaint Martinsville.
Chef Zod has partnered with restaurateur Benny Mavraj, who also owns Cafe Azzurro in Peapack, to reinvigorate the historic Martinsville Taverna space.
About the Space
The Duke and Elephant, named to “invoke the best British and Irish taverns, the grandeur and seasonality of nearby Duke Farms and the outsize whimsy of the pachyderm,” is a casual, come-as-you-are restaurant with vibes of both a pub and a bistro. The main dining room features reclaimed barn wood walls, a covered and heated patio area, and a semi-private room ideal for small events. The new place offers something Chef Zod wasn’t able to offer at his previous restaurants: booze. The bar area will appeal to locals and loyals with its affordable happy hour specials and well-made drinks. A cocktail already garnering accolades is Washington’s Mule—Laird’s apple brandy, apple purée, lemon and ginger beer.
About the Food
For those who associate Arifai with Blu, this place will be a departure. Gone is the fine-dining atmosphere and menu. For those who were fans of Next Door, the diverse, interesting menu will feel more familiar, as it highlights food reflective of a commitment to exceptional casual cuisine. There are even some signature dishes from the Montclair restaurants featured at the Duke and Elephant, including the Napa cabbage salad with snow peas, crispy wontons and spicy peanut dressing, and the linguine with cauliflower, pecorino, chili flakes and toasted crumbs.
Egg rolls
Fried cauliflower
The waitstaff greeted us with baskets of absolutely delicious, properly made crusty bread, sourced from Balthazar Bakery in Manhattan. If you’re not going to make your own bread (and who really wants to?) Balthazar is some of the best there is.
Our large group shared several solid appetizers including the crispy spring rolls burger with sriracha mayo, the fried cauliflower with chilies, lemon and almonds, the brined and fried chicken wings with spicy sauce and house-made blue cheese, the octopus, chickpeas, fennel and olives, meatballs, ricotta, spicy tomato, grilled bread, and avocado toast with sunflower seeds and sea urchin. Many casual restaurants serve fried appetizers but get them wrong in terms of sogginess and old oil flavors. Chef Zod and his team, however, presented us with perfectly crisp, flavorful starters worthy of further tastings. The octopus was nicely cooked to a tender texture and great acidity. The meatballs were a hit with our group and I’d expect client pressure might entice the kitchen staff to include them in an entrée pasta version.
Mushroom fettuccine
Chocolate mousseMeatballs
In a throwback move, Arifai offers the infamous burger with white sharp cheddar, caramelized onions, and rosemary aioli, which he served at Next Door, but I know that dish well so I opted for a new entrée on his menu: fettuccini with wild mushrooms, goat cheese, and pine nuts. At first glance, the dish seemed to lack the appropriate amount of sauce to fully coat the pasta, but, the fettuccini was cooked perfectly, featured woodsy roasted mushrooms and slightly crunchy pine nuts all combined with the very light sauce that proved rich and in the right amount for the dish. This entrée was a winner, with earthy mushroom flavors that paired beautifully with the glass of pinot noir I’d ordered.
My tablemates sampled the beef short ribs with sweet and sour sauce, the mac ‘n’ cheese with lobster and truffle oil, and the salmon pistachio, butternut squash puree, cranberry, and endives and all enjoyed their dishes thoroughly.
Desserts were also very good and the favorites in the group were the mousse and the sundae.
When I return to the Duke and Elephant, I endeavor to try the Family Feast—shareable dishes on an enticing separate menu featuring Angus beef, linguini with cauliflower, and Pecorino—and some starters, sides and desserts. The feast is well priced, at $36 per person.
The staff was welcoming and helpful with recommendations and warm service, something not always the case when large tables of guests are being served.
The Duke and Elephant is open daily for lunch and dinner and on weekends for brunch.
Big changes are coming to the well-known restaurant 709, located at 709 Arnold Avenue in Point Pleasant Beach. On November 15, the property and building were sold to the owners of B2 Bistro + Bar in Red Bank.
This will be the second of a 12-restaurant expansion the group is planning for the next five years.
Slow-cooked pig, cauliflower puree, baby bok choy
The Food
The menu has already converted to B2’s elevated signature dishes like slow-cooked pig, which comes in whole and is braised overnight and then pulled and served with cauliflower puree and baby bok choy.
The house-made Fazzoletti pasta changes seasonally. Currently on the fall menu is the Autumn Fazzoletti fresh pasta sheets, seasonal vegetables, sage crema, with crushed walnuts. B2 Point Beach will continue to offer sushi, which is now in the very capable and experienced hands of Ocean Township’s Takara Japanese Steakhouse. Interesting snacks include the popcorn done two ways: brown butter, fines herbes, and Maldon sea salt or truffle Parmesan.
Happy hour fans will love B2’s extended hours and special food and drink menus: Monday through Friday, happy hour runs from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday it’s all day. The cocktail program is a very important component to B2’s brand. The restaurant will be bringing some of Red Bank’s signature cocktails and creating more geared to the shore scene, using fresh fruit purees. Pictured below is one of their holiday cocktails, the NHM.
NHM (non-denominational holiday martini): Edinburgh Christmas gin, fresh falernum, and grenadine with cidre bouché
The Building
Construction will begin, in stages, in January. Plans for the façade include an open entry to the sidewalk with garage doors. The infamous 709 bubble walls will be coming down to create a more open floor plan. Upstairs changes will include full-service dining and bar inside and a fireplace and couch seating on the veranda. All renovations are expected to be complete by end of May.
The People
Meg LaManna, executive chef and part owner, recently returned from a four-year stay in Miami, where she worked as a chef at the Mandarin Oriental and then worked under Michelle Bernstein, two-time James Beard award winner at Michy’s, in Miami. LaManna is a local, born and raised in Point Pleasant Beach, and a graduate of PPB High School.
Meg LaManna, executive chef and part owner
LaManna’s partner, Steven Valentine, will serve as operations manager. Since opening his first restaurant in 1991, Valentine has worked in all aspects of restaurant operations including vice president and director of operations of a 97-location regional restaurant corporation.
Like the Red Bank location, B2 Point Beach will use many ingredients sourced from local New Jersey farms like Beyond Organic Growers in Freehold and the Green Duchess Farm in Hillsborough. “Locally sourced produce, meat, and seafood is what we’re all about,” LaManna says. “It’s very important to us that we get to know our farmers and how they raise and treat their livestock and grow their produce.”
B2 Bistro + Bar (Point Pleasant Beach)
709 Arnold Avenue
Point Pleasant Beach, NJ
732-295-0709
“There’s a lotta love for the Little Dog,” quips Gretchen Schmidhausler, owner of Little Dog Brewing Co., in Neptune, NJ. The brewery celebrates its third anniversary this weekend. On Saturday, November 18, and into Sunday, November 19, Little Dog will hold a mini-cask festival with pints and flights of casked versions of Schmidhausler’s favorite beers, including a bourbon stout, Nipper (a Habanero pale ale), and more.
Gretchen Schmidhausler behind the bar at Little Dog Brewing Co.
Growth of the Brewery Scene
While Schmidhausler is taking the time to celebrate the brewery’s past success, she’s also keeping an eye on the future. Breweries are popping up all over the state and she’s seen a number of them open in the Monmouth and northern Ocean County area during the short time Little Dog has occupied its tiny storefront on Steiner Avenue. “In the three years I’ve been open, four breweries have opened in the immediate area—with more to come,” she said. There is a dynamic relationship between all of these breweries, which has created a rising tide of beer tourism that lifts all boats. To a point.
All of these new breweries also mean increasing competition for tap handles at the local bars and restaurants. Like many small breweries around the state, Little Dog faces a pivotal point in its existence. Schmidhausler points out, “At three years old, Little Dog is holding its own—paying the bills, making good beer, servicing 25 to 30 accounts, and keeping people happy in the Tasting Room.” Unlike other breweries, Schmidhausler sees her tasting room as more of a marketing tool and less as a wholesale outlet. Her goal for 2018 is to have more off-premise accounts.
Little Dog recently added two more tap handles to the tasting room.
On the Horizon
As much as she enjoys visiting accounts and delivering her beer to the owner or bartender who will be serving it, Schmidhausler knows establishing a more robust sales strategy will require some help. The idea of hiring that help might not be as daunting as it would be for other breweries. “I’m fortunate that my overhead is relatively low compared to other breweries—and that was by design.”
It sounds like Little Dog is poised to get a little less little in 2018. If you make it to the cask festival, try the Gesundheit German style altbier spiced with Star Anise. That’s one of my favorites!
Note: Our writer was invited for a complimentary visit to Dave & Buster’s.
jerseybites.com is pleased to welcome Dave & Buster’sto New Jersey. The first Garden State location is now here, and it’s located in the Woodbridge Center Mall. That’s right: you don’t have to travel to Times Square anymore to enjoy this thrilling venue. The opening was made possible by passage of legislation in Trenton that ended a 56-year New Jersey ban on games-based establishments selling liquor. The official ribbon cutting and opening will be on Tuesday, November 14, at 11 a.m. when they will be open to the public. We attended a special press preview and totally enjoyed our visit, Dave & Buster’s style. We experienced bright lights, games, cold drinks, great food, and lots of fun.
A Little History
In the 1970s, a man named Buster opened a restaurant that became well-known for tasty food and friendly service. Just a few doors away, Dave opened a popular spot with entertainment and games that was irresistible for adults. The two young entrepreneurs noticed that patrons would rotate between the two establishments, and the idea for Dave & Buster’s formed. The first Dave & Buster’s opened in Dallas in 1982 and currently there are over 103 locations nationwide—all building on the reputation that has pleased guests for over four decades.
Welcome to Woodbridge
This new Woodbridge spot is vast and spans 3,400 square feet. The venue features a state-of-the-art sports bar and lounge with a huge wall of HDTVs, spacious booths, comfortable seating, and high-top tables. It’s also an event space, with private and semi-private rooms ideal for pecial occasions, corporate gatherings, meetings, and team building. And it’s worth noting that Dave & Buster’s is contributing to the local economy by providing hundreds of jobs to area residents.
Dave & Buster’s Sports Bar team
Food and Drink
Dave & Buster’s offers a menu of chef-crafted food for your good times. The choices suit all tastes and styles. You can indulge in items like the BBBacon burger with three types of bacon, Ultimate mac and cheese, the Philly cheesesteak, Americana ribs, Bass Ale battered fish and chips or fired-grilled salmon. Ideal table shares include ancho Caesar lettuce wraps, grilled smoked chicken wings, the cheesy spinach dip or appetizer platters that include favorites like quesadilla wedges, wings, and tots. For those who prefer to go light, there is a nice selection of salads that includes the grilled chicken and baby kale Caesar and the Thai chicken chopped salads. You can also warm up with soups—including the tomato feta. Save a little room for scrumptious desserts that include Brookie sundae tower and bananas Foster pie. All of the tasty items we sampled had a great presentation.
Tenderloin and bacon-wrapped shrimp with smoked chile and tomato cream pasta
Ancho Caesar lettuce wraps
BBBacon burger
Fives All Around appetizer platter
The beverage program is exciting and distinctive, with premium cocktails like the tiki drinks, margaritas, or classic cocktails and creative signature drinks that include their Coronaritas, adult snow cones, and refreshers like the D&B TNT with Absolut vodka, Tanqueray gin, Bacardi Superior rum with Grand Marnier sweet ‘n sour and Coca-Cola in a souvenir glass. Dave & Buster’s also serves over two dozen selections of beer and wines by the glass or bottle.
Island punch
Game Time
Did we mention the games yet? There are over 150 of the latest and greatest, including InJustice, World’s Largest PAC-MAN, and Space Invaders Frenzy. You can also delight in favorites like Deal or No Deal, Wheel of Fortune Spinner, Monopoly Pusher, NASCAR Games, Air Hockey and more. There is something for every gaming interest from challenging and sporty to imaginative and hi-tech. Dave & Buster’s has games you can’t play anywhere else and the top-notch Winner’s Circle prizes include clothing, Xboxes, and Beats by Dre.
The new, totally engaging Dave & Buster’s will feature weekly specials like Happy Hour, Monday to Friday from 4:30 to 7:00 p.m., and Late Night Happy Hour Sunday to Thursday 9:00 p.m. to close, with half-price cocktails, and specials on beer and wine.
Wednesday will feature half-price games all day, and Thursday/Sunday/Monday through February 4, 2018, will feature Football Game-Day Specials, with 22-ounce select draft beers priced at $3.50 and $5 Game Day Appetizers.
Dave & Buster’s
250 Woodbridge Center Drive
Woodbridge, NJ (second level, near Sears)