When Aishling Stevens was a teenager, she got a job working the front of house at a restaurant, but quickly realized the back of house (aka the kitchen) was where she actually wanted to be.
“The front was so mundane, but the back smelled good with all these colors and tastes,” Stevens reminisced.
Stevens’ mother was a nutritionist, so she grew up with a deep connection to food that eventually led her to turn it into her career.
Around the World
Cooking in different parts of the world helped Stevens develop her unique approach to food: she lived in Australia for 11 years and the United Kingdom for one year.
“The ingredients I was working with were totally different than here,” Stevens said. “There was a real approach of gratitude and knowing the farmer and knowing the fisherman. At the time, you didn’t get that in too many kitchens [in the United States].”
When it comes to the culinary industry, it has long been a majority-male field. “I’d say probably 90 percent of my team are males, but I don’t think of it as that,” Stevens says. “I don’t see people coming in as a gender—I see them as if they’re hard workers or not.”
At Crystal Springs
Stevens oversees five different restaurants at Crystal Springs Resort in Vernon, NJ, including Restaurant Latour, all of which has given her the opportunity to develop a range of cuisine types. “I don’t think I specialize in any one cuisine,” Stevens says. “From quick-service burgers to high-end fine dining, I think it keeps me a well-rounded chef.”
Sample Wines from Around the Globe Saturday, June 29
PRESS RELEASE: On Saturday June 29, the wine will flow at Meadowlands Racing and Entertainment for the Summer Wine Festival!
Doors open for VIPs at 4:30 p.m. with General Admission at 5:30 p.m. Wine is poured until 9:30 p.m. Festival-goers will experience an evening of great wines from around the world, live-harness racing, music, and food. The event is rain or shine and all tasting areas are located under tents.
Featured Wineries
Sixty-nine wineries are being showcased including vineyards from Italy, France, Spain, Portugal, Austria, New Jersey, New Zealand, and of course, California. Festival goers will be sampling Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio, Zinfandel, Rosè, Sangrias, Merlot, Cabernet and Moscato.
New Jersey will be represented by Valenzano Winery showcasing their Shamong Red, Blackberry Syrah, Red, White & Blueberry Sangria along with their White Sangria. Jersey Blush, Red and Peach will be poured from Heritage Vineyards. Tomasello Winery will also have their wines being poured at this year’s festival.
VIP Details
The VIP ticket holders will receive an extraordinary selection of wines that they can exclusively sample. The list includes: White Haven Sauvignon Blanc, Fleur de Mer Rosè, Amour Geneve, Whispering Angel Rose, Don Miguel Gascon Malbec, J Vineyards Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Allegrini Palazzo Della Torre, Poggio al Tesoro Solosle and Bonterra Sauv Blanc.
General Admission and Details
For the complete list of wines and wineries, click here.
The Summer Wine Fest will be held in the Backyard and on the East Apron and will open to the public at 4:30 pm for VIP admission. The VIP ticket is $75 and includes an additional 1 hour of sampling, exclusive VIP Tent wine samplings, and food. General Admission begins at 5:30 pm and is available in advance for $35 or at the door for $45. Live harness racing kicks off at 7:15 pm.
The Cook’s Tour was invited to preview the new ZinBurger restaurant in December (the official opening was December 13) in Clifton. It is situated in the Promenade Shops on Rt 3 alongside Cups (self-service frozen yogurt), and The Corner Bakery.
Obviously word was out that a cool burger place was about to open – the place was packed. And local foodies were in on it, as well. I was seated next to Jason Perlow, one of the original founders of eGullet.
Before getting to our table though, we had a short wait at the bar, which gave me time to peruse the very decent wine and beer list. I also like to use my time at the bar to see how the bar operates and observe staff interactions. The bartenders had been trained well and they were very friendly but more importantly, they were efficient. I expected a restaurant that has the word “Zin” in its’ name to offer a good amount of Zinfandels (which they do), but they also have a lot of other great wines (priced from $5-15/glass). I am a big fan of Shiraz and Stump Jump from Australia is one of my favorites so I was happy to see it on the list. This signaled that the management seriously crafted the list and didn’t stock the bar with more run of the mill brands. My husband enjoyed crisp, cold Blue Moon Ale. Before we knew it, the hostess was calling us to our table (ZinBurger uses those hand-held buzzers to alert you when your table is ready, which I disdain because I feel like I am at an Outback Steakhouse, but it’s a minor complaint).
The atmosphere is sleek and contemporary with pleasant color tones, and a nice feature at the bar are hooks for bags and purses (handy if you’ve been shopping at the mall). Against the wall, near the kitchen, banquettes offer comfortable seating. Personally, I enjoy sitting close to open kitchen designs so I can watch the action. And this kitchen was cranking that night.
We ordered two of their flagship ZinBurgers (Manchego cheese, Zinfandel-braised onions, and mayo), but just to see if the kitchen would balk at a change in a standard menu item, one was ordered without mayo. No problem. So let’s get right down to it: this has to be one of the best burgers I’ve ever had. Cooked perfectly, according to my request of rare (with a nice caution from the waiter that it would come out with a warm pink center), incredibly juicy, fabulous onions, and delicious Spanish Manchego (a nice change from the usual cheese offerings). The burger is served on a light Brioche bun and is fairly priced at $10.
Now let’s talk fries. ZinBurger offers four varieties: Double Truffle, Hand-cut, Sweet Potato, and Zucchini. We tried the Truffle (served with truffle aioli) and the Hand-cut (standard fries served with catsup). Both were terrific – thin, crispy, salty (the way fries should be, IMHO).
The restaurant offers several different burger options, including turkey, veggie, and Ahi tuna. They also have plenty of good-looking salad choices, which I observed at the next table.
The burgers are quite filling but I couldn’t leave without trying a float or shake. There are at least 7-8 flavors, in addition to a couple of pies to choose from. It was a tough decision but I went with a traditional Black Cow Float (vanilla ice cream & Stewart’s root beer). Fabulous! I downed every drop!
Sometimes when you visit a new restaurant before they’ve officially opened, there are often hiccups in food or service. ZinBurger, Clifton, was humming on all cylinders last night. If management keeps up the quality and consistency of the food and continuous training of the staff, they should do very well. I think the ZinBurger concept will be a welcome addition to the area’s restaurants.
Terry Krongold is a life-long passionate baker. In addition to a full-time job in the pharmaceutical industry, Terry has been involved with food for many years, including co-ownership of a dessert catering company in the late eighties called I Love Cheesecake, specializing in fine cheesecake and unique desserts. Terry is the author of The Cook’s Tour, a blog focused on food, baking, and travel. When not working, writing, or baking, she spends time planning vacations around restaurants to visit. She can be reached at [email protected].
Janet Davis wasn’t planning on leaving the media industry as early as she did. Davis was working for Bloomberg Television in New York City in the early 2000s while living in South Jersey, and the long commute meant less time with her young son. She knew she wanted to start her own food business, and her side gig, known as Jade Jamaican Grill, became an opportunity for a full-time endeavor. “I had a four-year-old son [at the time] and lived in South Jersey,” she said. “I wanted to be there for my son, so that forced me to make a move a couple years earlier than I planned.” Davis decided to follow her passion and turn Jade Jamaican Grill, a full-service culinary business specializing in catering, cooking classes, culinary workshops, and more, into her full-time job.
Davis gets a lot of her cooking inspiration from her Jamaican heritage, but she’s well-versed in other Caribbean-fusion and American cuisine as well. “My background is Jamaican, but my brand is ‘full-on flavor.’” Full-on flavor has two meanings: Filling up on flavorful food, and serving food that has full-on flavor. Davis also says the clients’ experience is critical to a successful business. “People are big on experiences today—food and professional service.”
Although Davis took a leap in taking her business full time, she knew it was something she needed to do. “Once you identify that one thing that lights up your soul, that’s your thing and you have to pursue it,” she says. As a female in the culinary industry, Davis says it’s important to keep going no matter what hardships might arise. “You can’t wait for the world to give you the go ahead on what you were created to do.”
Smack middle of the bar…I was first there so chose a prime spot where I was able to observe some serious behind-the-scenes bartending training happening.
Bartender’s Favorite Bite
“The gulf shrimp that’s on the menu right now—with the crab fried rice—is for sure my favorite thing.”
The Vibe and My Vantage Point
Somewhere between Miami Vice and The Great Gatsby is Modine, in a stunning building with simple-yet-thrilling art deco design and hanging greenery. Exquisite design detail is easily found for those who need that fix and the baby grand toward the vault a nod to old-school swagger.
What Quenched My Thirst
The Jillbilly
The Jillbilly, $8 (happy hour price; regular price $12) Espolon Reposado tequila, Aperol, lime, agave, mezcal rinse presented with grapefruit slice, lime, and a half-rimmed glass of homemade chili lime salt
The color alone took my breath away and the thoughtful half-rimmed glass almost threw me into cardiac arrest; this all before my first sip. The evidence of a great mixologist is often found in the restraint or delicate touch and mindful detail. This was clearly no exception. The taste was insanely refreshing for a tequila at 4 p.m. on a Monday and it was all because of the sexy Aperol, aka the X-factor in this latest iteration of sexy drinks. The Aperol smoothed out the intensity of the tequila; the mezcal rinse a lovely touch to soften the sweetness, with the showstopper being the half-rimmed chili lime salt. It made the cocktail complete. Period. Stoked to go back and sample more cocktail creations this summer!
What Fed My Soul
Local diver scallop hushpuppies
Local Diver Scallop Hushpuppies, $11 Served eight on a plate with comeback sauce
I was expecting to be blown away…when you make the point of mentioning a diver scallop, my expectation is set to well beyond a traditional hushpuppy. You know me. I love fried foods and if you fry a carb for me, we are friends for life. However, in this case I was hushpuppy stumped. Flavor was excellent and I enjoyed seeing the tiny fragment of scallop and what I’m guessing was pimento or finely diced red pepper. The fry? Amazingly light, leaving no grease on the fingers at all. The scallops scarce yet the texture unique. More airy like a popover than the traditional cornmeal style variety and worth a try for the hushpuppy lover, as truly not all hushpuppies are created equal. These are no exception.
Broiled oysters
Broiled Oysters, $7 Served as a pair with chipotle bourbon butter
Super yum. That’s it. The oysters uber fresh having been pulled from Barnegat Bay about 11 hours earlier. Supple, sweet and oh so damn good with that special bourbon butter! More, please!
Oysters on the half shell
Oysters on the Half Shell, $6 (Mondays: oysters on special for $1 each) Half dozen fresh Barnegat Bay oysters served with homemade mignonette
What to say? Never fresher, the gorgeous, variant oyster sizes made for a lovely experience when only having six. Oysters are often served uniform in size, defying the nature of their variations. This was a delight to see. The tart mignonette delivered a perfect blend of fresh pepper, shallots, and excellent wine vinegar, making each oyster pop. I sort of loved that they didn’t even offer cocktail sauce, an intention of the chef for sure. I loved the texture, flavor, and zing that played between the saltwater mollusk, the acidity of the onion-vinegar combo, and the cushiness of the oysters themselves—slurp!
Fried chicken special
Fried Chicken Special, $10 ($19 on regular menu—with additional sides) Buttermilk brined, cold smoked, hot honey drizzle, and served with a biscuit
I grew up with my grandmother Johanna’s homemade fried chicken. I remember her saving the bacon fat from morning breakfasts to add to her oil concoction for the deep frying and her chicken came out juicy inside and crispy outside.
The bar has remained high for my fried chicken experiences ever since. Yet when this mound of fried goodness arrived in front of me, I was riveted by the curls of fried homemade pickles. The glistening hot honey drizzle made me feel dizzy as the server poured it on in front of my comatose-looking expression. I dove in so quickly—with my bare hands—that I just missed scalding myself, clearly having lost all sense of time and place. I could see it was still steaming! The aroma; the pickles! I ate them quickly and begged Brent to bring me a sample of them fresh, which he kindly obliged. The fresh ones were zesty, fresh, and crunchy in all the best ways pickles should be. I’m always so impressed when restaurants are committed to homemade, even down to the pickle!
The fried counterpart was just frivolity, which was fine with me. The chicken was gut-warmingly good, even for someone who doesn’t love smoked meats. The chicken, raised in pasture and from local farms, had a juicy inside that allowed the crusty, crunchy, crazy-good skin to shine through as it should. My focus on the biscuit got a little hazy as I savored each bite of the chicken. I’ll do my best to conjure my focus back to the biscuit for a moment. Plentiful and fluffy, the top pulled off as expected, revealing the layers beneath. The taste was comfort embodied. How was that?!
What’s on Tap
Not a darn thing. All beer is available in cans only. Happy to mention they carry at least three local brands from NJ!
What’s Uncorked
Sparkling Pet-Nat Vermentino, Day Wines, Oregon 2017, $15
Luca Paretti, Veneto, Italy 2016, $10
G.H. Mumm, Grand Cordon Brut, NV, Champagne, France, $22
Whites Riesling Boundary Breaks, Finger Lakes, NY 2017, $13
Sauvignon Blanc / Chardonnay Domaine Francois, Loire, France 2017, $12
Vinho Verde, Quinta do Regueiro, Minho, Portugal 2017, $9
Chardonnay, Domaine Michel Barraud, Burgundy, France 2017, $12
Reds Grenache, Vina Zorzal, Navarra, Spain 2017, $9
Tempranillo, Placeres Sensiorales, Rioja, Spain 2016 $10
Cabernet Sauvignon, Bull by the Horns, Paso Robles, CA 2016, $15
Ask about the specialty and rare wine selections featured regularly on the menu.
What Else to Know
Check out the cool private dining area inside the former vault of this historic bank building. Weekend brunch is available, as well as killer weekly specials. Visit Modine for more details.
When to Show
Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays:
4:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.
Fridays:
4:00 p.m. to midnight
Saturdays:
Brunch 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.
Bar Menu 4:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Dinner 5:00 p.m. to midnight
Sundays:
Brunch 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.
Bar Menu 4:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Dinner 5:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Know Before You Go!
Closed Tuesdays. Available for private parties and events. Please check the website for latest information.
The writer was invited to visit De Novo and the meal was complimentary.
A cool, airy, elegant atmosphere surrounded guests on Sunday, June 9, as they attended a soft-opening cocktail reception for De Novo, a new European-style pub in Edgewater. Owner Demetri Malki and Executive Chef Adolfo Marisi greeted family members, friends, and associates, who enjoyed an afternoon of gourmet hors d’oeuvres and libations against a backdrop of panoramic views of the Hudson River. The restaurant opens to the public on Wednesday, June 12.
Demetri Malki (left) and Executive Chef Adolfo Marisi.
Malki is reapplying the culinary success of his gastropub of the same name in Montclair, which will celebrate its fifth anniversary in July. The new De Novo, surrounded by luxury residential towers in this northern Bergen County town, looks well positioned to draw patrons that might otherwise be inclined take the ferry to New York City in search of a romantic dining experience.
“This is my new baby,” Malki said with a smile as he anticipated the challenges of opening the new pub. Speaking philosophically, he is most interested to see how the establishment’s dining rooms will “talk” to the kitchen; in other words, how customers will interact with the menu, atmosphere and wait staff and provide feedback to help guide the pub’s initial efforts.
Events and the Menu
One pleasant surprise for Malki thus far has been the strong demand for booking receptions, social affairs and family parties at the pub. He said this interest apparently is an extension of a business tradition established by Le Jardin, the restaurant that previously occupied this spot in Edgewater.
Chef Marisi said the menu will feature refined Mediterranean-style Italian and French dishes along with homemade pasta, breads, and gelato. Born in the Abruzzo region of Italy, Marisi learned his craft while working at restaurants in the glorious Renaissance city of Florence.
Crispy flatbread pizzaYukon Gold potato blinis topped with confit of tomatoSalmon “trumpet” cones
The Edgewater menu, most likely, will be similar to the selections offered at the Montclair pub: seafood, steaks, salads, flatbreads and assorted pasta dishes. De Novo in Montclair—adjacent to the Upper Montclair train station on New Jersey Transit’s Montclair/Boonton Line—has garnered its share of multi-star reviews over the years.
The New Location Journey
Bartender Jessica says “cheers” with the pub’s signature “Fig in the City” cocktail.
The hand of fate steered Malki to Edgewater. Emboldened by the success of his Montclair business, he was looking to open a new establishment and originally had his sights set on a spot in Morristown. However, after 10 months, the negotiations broke down. “It just didn’t happen,” he recalled. Last October a friend suggested that he should visit the Edgewater property, and Malki immediately became enamored with the location. Business discussions quickly followed and within three months he closed on the deal. “It was meant to be. It almost happened by itself,” he said.
A 2000 graduate of Montclair State University, Malki said he helped put himself through school by working long hours as a bartender and waiter. He’s the first member of his family to seek a career in the restaurant business. Demonstrating his skills as an entrepreneur, one year after earning his college degree he opened his first restaurant, D’Metri’s, and then four years later launched Table 8. Both were located in Montclair.
De Novo, designed by New World Design Builders, based in Clifton and Manhattan, has spacious dining areas, large picture windows, and a long bar area for social interaction. The Edgewater location is in the process of constructing a new outdoor patio.
The bar is large and well-appointed with a sleek marble counter, a plethora of spirits and wines and eight beers and stouts on tap, including Guinness, Samuel Adams, Allagash White, Stella Artois, and Saranac. The pub’s signature cocktail is Fig in the City—fig vodka, cranberry juice, and sours.
Antonella Marisi (center), the spouse of Chef Adolfo, enjoys a toast with her friends Robyn (left) and Kristen. All three are dedicated fans of De Novo in Montclair.
Edgewater Mayor Michael J. McPartland attended the cocktail reception and expressed his delight in the De Novo vibe. “They’ve done a beautiful job here,” McPartland said. “This will be a wonderful place for Edgewater.”
The writer was invited to visit Surf City and the meal was complimentary.
Surf City Beach Bar & Restaurant in Jersey City is a total summer happening with fine seafood dishes, great views, and a vibe that makes your experience at the waterfront restaurant and bar totally memorable.
Visit just once, and we predict you will become a regular. It is now open for the season inviting Jersey City residents and many more for lunch and dinner and weekend brunch.
Relax and indulge as you view boats cruising to the Hudson River and take in a great view of NYC. Surf City has wonderful outdoor spaces and there is also nice all-weather indoor seating.
The venue is easily accessible by mass transit, the NY Waterway Ferry, and there is a generous amount of free parking available.
We visited on a sunny Sunday afternoon as families, couples, and groups of friends enjoyed the food, drink, and summery atmosphere. Guests can choose between table service and convenient counter service.
Jersey Bites had the opportunity to chat for a few moments with Executive Chef Franco Robazetti, who gave us some important insights about this season. He has put together an all-seafood team meaning that Robazetti’s assistants in the kitchen are expert at preparing fine seafood. “It has been a great season already,” he said. “Many people from the area are discovering that we offer the finest seafood in an atmosphere that is perfect for enjoying the summer.”
Focus on Seafood
This season, Surf City debuts Lobster Sundays with the freshest whole lobsters served as a full meal for brunch, lunch, and dinner. The menu also has one of our favorites, lobster mac and cheese with a creamy cheddar cheese sauce and plenty of tender pieces of lobster on top.
Lobster mac and cheese, photo by Marina Kennedy
But wait, there’s more! The twin lobster rolls couldn’t be better. They’re filled with lobster meat, wonderfully seasoned with celery and herbs on toasted rolls, and served with cole slaw and fries. We also highly suggest the ahi tuna, served with a zesty wasabi mayo. If you love soft shell crabs—and who doesn’t—you’ve found a home. Chef Robazetti prepares them breaded and lightly fried over a savory bed of rice and they will be available throughout the summer.
Soft-shell crabs over rice, photo by Marina KennedyTwin lobster rolls, photo courtesy of Surf City
If you’re in the mood for clams, the steamed clams, made in a white wine garlic sauce and served with toasted bread and fries, make a great table share.
Beyond the Seafood
Be sure to peruse the full menu. In addition to seafood specialties, other options include salads, starters, and sandwiches. Surf City even has a special station that prepares a creamy, fresh guacamole with creative add-ons like lobster, whole habaneros, chipotle, shrimp, and pork belly. The popular dip served with tortilla chips is great to pair with drinks or as an appetizer.
The beverage program has been specially designed to please guests with refreshing options like their frozen drinks that include pina colada, strawberry daiquiri, mango tango, and island fusion. A nice selection of classic cocktails, beer, wine, and ciders is also an option. We are fans of the sangria, which can be ordered by the glass or by the pitcher, with a choice of red or white. And check out their Happy Hour on weekdays from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. with reduced prices on beer, wine, and cocktails.
Surf City offers plenty of on-site amenities to make your visit outstanding with musical entertainment, expansive bars, beach-chair seating, and the adults-only Sunset Beach area with games, cocktails, and waiter service.
People living in the metro area don’t have to travel far to get that beachy feel. Gather your group or make it a date night. You are also welcome to bring the family. Children accompanied by an adult are welcome until 8 p.m. but as of 9:30 p.m., the venue is adults only.
It really wasn’t about the tangy, craft-made sauces and condiments, or the selection of delicious beer, or the flavorful spiced fudges that were on display during a gathering at the Montclair Brewery on June 5.
Actually, it was all about the friendly gathering itself: the spirit of the evening and the convivial, informal interaction of the many people who turned out for the event, drawn by curiosity and passion to sample original, artisanal products.
There were good vibrations and human chemistry percolating throughout the neighborhood pub. “In-person mingle” was the dominant flavor of this Wednesday night on Walnut Street.
The Secret Sauciety
Cedar Grove resident James Colistra said the networking meetup marked the launch of his Secret “Sauciety,” which he plans to ramp up into a business. Colistra envisions tasting events in the coming months, pairing his flavorful sauces with beer, wine, and a variety of food. “I want to bring people together around ideas,” he said, describing his Secret Sauciety as “the first and only social club built around the world’s best condiments.”
As a labor of love, Colistra is a champion of hot sauces from a variety of small companies and individuals who are passionate about their home-grown products. The mantra he follows is: “locally sourced and globally inspired.” At least three of the sauces on display at Montclair Brewery included two Jersey-based companies: Pallotta Hot in Clifton; and Jersey Barnfire from Sparta.
The hot sauce bottles featured catchy names (Jay’s Wicked Triple Black Reaper, Cherry Bomb, Chili Moon, Indian Summer) along with exotic ingredients (Sandia chiles, Trinidad Moruga scorpion peppers, ghost peppers, tamarind extract), all designed to spark interest and stimulate the palate.
While he enjoys sampling and promoting the products, Colistra is also enchanted with the back-channel tales of creation and inspiration. “I look for the cool stories from sauce makers. I love to hear how people are excited about what they’re doing.”
Originally from the Albany, NY, area, Colistra said his own passion for homemade sauces originally came from his father and grandfather. They inherited recipes and techniques through their Italian ancestry and passed them on to Colistra.
In 2013 he began producing his own line of ketchup with Kickstarter funding, sourcing ingredients from local farmers. In fact, he was tapping into an American tradition; 150 years ago it was common to find an assortment of regionally produced ketchups sold by local shopkeepers. According to online information posted by the Pittsburgh-based H.J. Heinz Company, Henry John Heinz began producing his renowned ketchup in 1876, which today dominates national supermarket shelves.
Colistra sold his ketchup at farmer’s markets, roadside food stands and local grocery stores. However, after several years, taking stock of the time and effort needed to produce his ketchup, he dialed back and reassessed his business strategy. He shifted his focus on his current thrust of curating and marketing sauces and related products through social media and meetups. As such, he makes use of his skills as a marketing director at Forbes Magazine.
He sees similarities between the current market for artisanal hot sauces and the craft beer market that emerged in the 1990s. Online articles posted by Supermarket News, Reuters, Yahoo Finance and others track a hot (pun intended), expanding, multi-billion dollar U.S. business sector for sauces and condiments. He hopes to follow the trail blazed by craft brews during the last three decades, using the hip allure of hot sauces as the prize. “We’d like to follow the craft beer movement. We’re trying to build a community,” he said.
Sauces and suds, all on one table.Leopold Sawadogo (left) and James Colistra
A Local Connection: Montclair Brewery
The comparisons between Colistra’s hot sauces and interest in craft beer turned out to be divine intervention. Last year, as he was formulating his ideas, Colistra had two chance encounters with an Uber driver—a Montclair resident named Leopold Sawadogo. The two men connected, compared notes and became friends. Colistra’s relationship with Sawadogo proved to be an essential spark. Leo was hatching his own business plans for the Montclair Brewery, which opened in October 2018. The brewery, housed in a spacious, rough-hewn, former furniture restoration workshop, offers ales, pilsners, and stouts on tap.
Sawadogo—an affable chap, former professional soccer player, and radio talk show host who hails from the West African nation of Burkina Faso—offered to share his family’s hot sauces with Colistra. Like Colistra, Sawadogo’s hot sauce recipes are heirlooms, but the gentleman from Burkina Faso sees his tradition extending back many centuries to the ancient spice trade routes between Africa and China. “In those days spices were worth more than gold,” he said.
Following locally sourced and environmentally conscious philosophies, Sawadogo formed a reciprocal relationship with City Green, an urban organic farming initiative in Clifton. He delivers spent-grain, which is used as valuable composting material for the crops grown on site, from his brewing operations to the farm. In turn, City Green provides Sawadogo with fresh rosemary, lavender and herbs. There’s a City Green beer on the brewery’s menu board.
Words of Wisdom
Two other luminaries were on hand for the Wednesday night meet up. Joe Iurato, a sommelier, artist, and writer from Cedar Grove, spoke to the crowd about the importance of recognizing balance in artisanal items. “I love the idea of appreciating craft-made hot sauces, wine, beer, and food,” Iurato said. “These products are the expressions of their creators.”
Joe Iurato
Biljana Milovanovic of Bora’s Pantry displayed her Greenspice line of spiced fudges and preserves, which are sold locally by Whole Foods. The company’s website states that Bora was the name of Milovanovic’s grandfather, who was a wine maker and gourmand from the town of Knjazevac in eastern Serbia. Her great-grandmother, Mila, was a maker of fruit preserves and marmalades. Like Colistra and Sawadogo, Milovanovic’s business is another example of reinventing Old-World family traditions and recipes.
Biljana Milovanovic holding her Greenspice fudges.
It was a lovely spring night in Montclair, spotlighting spiced fudge and recipes from Serbia, gourmet hot sauces with global flavors, craft-brewed beers, spent-grain recycling, insightful words of wisdom from an artistic sommelier, traditions of ancient spice trade routes, profound encounters between an Uber driver and passenger, an upstate New York lover of homemade ketchup, and the first and only social club built around the world’s best condiments. And it all came together one evening under one roof.
In 2017, fewer than 30% of the James Beard Award finalists were female. And today, women make up only about 20% of the professional chef population. The culinary industry has always been predominantly male, but little by little, more women are taking the reins.
I had the pleasure of speaking with seven of New Jersey’s most passionately driven female chefs. I’ve learned one thing from all of them, it’s that gender never defines what we’re capable of accomplishing. Each of these women has paved her own way in the culinary world, and while each of their paths have been different, they’ve all ended up successful in food, with talents that are still growing with each meal.
These profiles will run as a series, and we’re thrilled to begin with Chef Meg LaManna, executive chef and partner,B2 Bistro + Bar, in Point Pleasant Beach.
“Find something you’re passionate about and keep tremendously interested in it.” — Julia Child
Chef Meg LaManna
Executive chef and partner,B2 Bistro + Bar, Point Pleasant Beach
Meg LaManna tried her hand at attending a university, but it wasn’t for her. “I absolutely hated it and had a horrible experience—I came home after the first semester,” LaManna said. She cooked dinner for her family every night, which is how her mother gave her the idea to look into culinary school. LaManna enrolled at a school in Asbury Park, and it set the stage for the rest of her career. Today, LaManna is the executive chef of B2 Bistro, in Point Pleasant Beach.
LaManna later earned a degree in psychology, but she knew the kitchen was where she wanted to be. After spending some time working in New Jersey, LaManna relocated to Miami, where she focused on her skill and shaped her cuisine style. “Before Miami, my mind segregated food into categories,” LaManna said. “But [my time in Miami was when] I started to realize you can fuse these flavors together and create new dishes. As long as you’re cooking food that you believe in.” LaManna, who grew up near the Jersey Shore and whose family comes from southern Italy, said most of her dishes focus on seafood and lighter, broth-based fare.
LaManna said that while she’s learned a lot in her 15 years in the industry, she’ll “never know everything.” She continues to streamline her skills and develop her culinary prowess, but she admits things haven’t always been easy. “Over the last 15 years, I’ve had a lot of eye-opening experiences,” she says. “With time and experience, you grow a thicker skin.”
Yesterday, while most of New Jersey headed to the Jersey Shore, we took the opposite route, and jeeped it to Stults Farm in Cranbury for some fresh picked Blueberries.
Did you know that New Jersey is the #1 producer of Blueberries for the fresh market? It’s no wonder that Hammonton, New Jersey is considered the Blueberry Capital of the World!
As you can see from the sign, Blueberries are not the only thing Stults Farm is known for. Their sign displays what they are selling at the moment. The sweet corn was so “at the moment” that people were actually hanging around waiting for it to come from the field. One very funny gentleman asked “is it fresh?” as they poured it from the tractor to the basket.
So, what to do with these beautiful Blueberries? As we were driving home, I was thinking about something a little savory and simple. What about a corn and blueberry salad?
Turns out, I wasn’t the first to think that they would make a great couple. Some recipes want to get fancy and add extra ingredients, like this recipe from Better Homes and Gardens, but I wanted something that spotlighted the two stars.
In the end, the only added ingredient was smoked salt (this is my brand of choice). No butter, no oil, nothing. Blueberries, cooked fresh corn, and smoked salt to taste. All I can say is that I ate a big bowl with a big spoon until it was all gone. I think this recipe is perfect and will be a nice surprise on the picnic table.
For a great brunch or dessert recipe, check out this family favorite. Blueberry Bread Pudding.
So, why bother with Blueberries? According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), blueberries are near the top when it comes to antioxidant activity per serving.
If you’re having trouble remembering why you should be eating Blueberries, then you might want to read this study published in the Journal of Agriculture and Food Chemistry that investigated the effects of daily consumption of wild blueberry juice in a sample of nine older adults with early memory changes. The results were very promising.
Similar studies have been found with older rats who were fed Blueberries and put up against their younger counterparts. Older rats were able to master the maze like the youngsters and brain scans actually showed brain activity similar to younger rats. That’s actually the “rat science for dummies” version of the study.
If you’d like a more thorough run down on some of the more recent blueberry experiments, here is a great article. All I know is that Blueberries are a pretty sweet pill and they’re my new best friend.
Stults Farm is not the only “Pick Your Own” Blueberry farm. For a list of farms in New Jersey, click here. And, always remember the “Berry Rule” as put down by the Stults Farm folks.
Carton Brewing,in Atlantic Highlands, NJ, has built a barn. Sort of.
If you haven’t heard it, Steal This Beer is very entertaining podcast hosted by Augie Carton and acclaimed beer writer John Holl which is “a candid weekly discussion about beer.” In June of 2018 (Episode #166) they spoke to Evan Watson of Plan Bee Brewery, whose Poughkeepsie, New York, brewery strives to create beers from only local ingredients. He calls the concept Barn Beer. He’s been collaborating with other breweries in order to promote the concept, which he would like to see become a style category some day.
From Idea to Reality
“Want to come do it with us?” quips Carton in the first 10 minutes of the podcast. There’s a fun riff between the three as they work through what a Jersey version of Barn Beer would be. Nearly a year later, Planning Jersey Barn Beer is here.
Watson’s forte, as the name of his brewery suggests, is cultivating yeast from honeycombs. Provided with honeycomb from Carton’s neighbor in Locust, New Jersey, he produced enough yeast for a 30-barrel brew. That might sound like a long way to go for yeast, but it really gives the beer a signature character and is worth the effort.
Fermentables from Rabbit Hill Malt
Carton called out to Rabbit Hill Malt in Shiloh, NJ, for the fermentables. Rabbit Hill is a family farm tucked away in the quiet southwest corner of the state. This farm uses a traditional floor malting technique on all of the grain they grow. It served as the perfect foundation for the barn beer Carton was building. On that foundation of malt are the beams and trusses that hold the building up. That would come in the form of the Atlantic Highlands aquifer which supplies Carton Brewing with “simply the greatest water in the world.”
Oasis Farms: Home of the Hops
Oasis Farms, in nearby Middletown, NJ, was founded in 2011 by Mai Cleary and her husband. While Oasis is a true working farm, it is also an enclave for autistic adults who find meaningful work there. As it turns out, the largely self-sufficient farm also serves as great therapy for its autistic staff. I attended a wine tasting and dinner hosted at an estate purchased by the farm, which was as lovely as it was inspirational. Oasis hops contributed a nice fresh coat of paint to the Planning Jersey barn.
Every barn looks a little better with some age on it, right? This one was put into an oak foeder (a large oak aging vessel) and left to do its thing. The final touch is putting that barn in a beautiful, bucolic setting. Planning Jersey is bottled in elegant-yet-rustic Italian imported bottles.
The result is a lively beer that is just a touch sour but has a slick mouthfeel imparted by the honeycomb yeast. It is the embodiment of spring in a glass. Like the season itself, it is fleeting but will be back next year.
Memorial Day Weekend marked the unofficial start to the summer season, and nothing says summer better than a steak, fresh off the grill! Read on as Salt Creek Grille – Princeton Executive Chef Wally Weaver shares his tips for grilling the perfect steak at home.
Grill the Perfect Steak!
Whatever steak you are grilling (porterhouse is Chef Weaver’s favorite), make sure you season it very well. You will lose some of that seasoning when you put the steak on the grill.
Crank up the heat on your grill in order to get the best sear marks and to seal in those juices!
After you sear it, use indirect heat the rest of the way. That means turning off one or two of the burners on your grill and placing the steak over that spot. The heat from the other burners will cook the steak nicely without burning it.
Let it rest! This is the most crucial part of cooking a steak. You must let it rest for at least 10 minutes after it reaches your desired temperature. (The longer the better, so really, 20 minutes is optimal.) This is a critical step because as the steak cools down, it will reabsorb all of the juices and give you an incredibly juicy steak.
