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Almost Home General, Lincroft

Editor’s note: Please check directly with the restaurant for updates on seating and dining options.

Rob Doran, owner of Almost Home General, in Lincroft, NJ, recently sat tableside with me and explained his inspiration, admiration, and future visions for his new and oh-so-popular breakfast and lunch spot.

The Inspiration

Riding a bike for 25 days and 1,800 miles would make me sore, tired, and haggard. But for Doran, such a trip left him motivated, excited, and inspired about what he wanted for a recently vacated deli on busy Crawfords Corner Road.

His journey started in Florida, where he had moved, before returning to his roots, in the Garden State, when he had the opportunity to open Almost Home. Doran started and ended each day along that trek with a cup of black coffee at whatever coffee shop he could find. He knew he wanted to create something that felt like the home he was missing. “I dealt with loneliness by making friends at all those places,” he explained. 

The Concept: Third Wave

Third-wave coffee is defined in a 2019 Los Angeles Times article as “products of a coffee industry made up of cafes and other coffee businesses…that share a linked, if not identical, mission statement: to deliver high-quality cups of coffee to customers.” This is what you can find at Almost Home.

Besides creating a space that feels like the next best thing to your own address, Doran wanted to share his experience with the coffee culture he has come to know and love. “It is a light to medium roast and one that is an entry into speciality coffees,” he said. In laymen’s terms, this is not your average cup of morning Joe.

Not surprisingly, Doran’s first concept was solely a coffee cafe where fresh java and in-house baked goods would be readily available. Months later, Almost Home is that and so much more.

Cinnamon Roll
The Admiration

On the personal side, I am quite thankful for the evolution Almost Home has seen since its opening. And Doran is also thrilled with what his kitchen is turning out. Head chef Alex Riley has done an outstanding job creating farm-to-table dishes that truly wow diners.

Maple Pecan Pancakes drizzled with an Asbury Park Bourbon laced syrup
Maple pecan pancakes drizzled with an Asbury Park bourbon-laced syrup are what Sundays are made for.
Cacio e Peppe Toast
Cacio e Peppe toast, served under a perfectly runny egg

Riley has worked under one of New England’s top chefs, Matt Jennings, and with Monmouth County’s renowned Chris Mumford. Those experiences have most certainly left their mark. Utilizing local farms, distributors, and vendors, Doran has developed a menu that allows for both “cheat days” and “just what the doctor ordered” meals. 

Peanut Butter Banana Toast
Peanut butter banana toast

A Few Highlights

I need to point out the peanut butter banana toast: Sourdough, sourced from Benchmark Breads of Atlantic Highlands, smeared with whipped mascarpone then drizzled with peanut butter and fancied up with some toasted coconut atop. One bite put me into a heavenly trance.

On the lighter side, I recommend the Locals Only Panzanella salad, made with marinated heirloom tomatoes, shaved asparagus, and charred zucchini—all tossed in a citrus balsamic dressing and studded with perfectly crisp croutons. Meanwhile, the watermelon salad, plated so artistically with feta crumbles, fresh blueberries, toasted pistachios and asparagus spears, will be your ideal meal on a sultry summer day.

Watermelon Salad
Watermelon salad

And the sweets! Man, that dessert glass case is worth writing home about. Pastry chef Corey Whitman, who arrives at work while some of us night owls are still watching TV, is really outdoing herself. Her favorite item to bake? The three-days-in-the-making croissants. Flaky, buttery, and rich, they are a true example of how a labor of love can pay off. Pastry Chef Corey Whitman

But it was the cinnamon rolls that really had me at hello, so fluffy and full of sweet cinnamon sugar, all shimmery from a ladle of icy-white glaze. And if you’re thinking, Those would pair perfectly with a great cup of coffee, Whitman’s got something even better: The Red Eye. This fresh-from-the-oven cinnamon roll is poured over with a shot of Almost Home espresso. Talk about an eye-opener!

Specials, Brunch, and More

The menu also features daily specials, weekend brunch options, pop-up pizzas, and Instagram-able, picture-perfect cereal lattes. Haven’t heard of them yet? Brace yourself, these caffeinated drinks are everything your inner five-year-old self craves, matched with everything your adult self needs. (The featured cereal changes weekly, and so far no cereal has been used more than once.) Also, credit where credit is due: Doran had his first cereal latte at a North Carolina drive-through he went to on his bike. 

To add to the fun, Whitman usually whips something up to pair with the drinks. You can enjoy Oreo latte with an Oreo-crumble scone or a Cocoa Krispies-latte with a slice of double-dutch chocolate cake. Another option: a Cinnamon Toast Crunch latte served with (dunk-friendly) churros. Who’s hungry?

Trix Cereal Latte

The Bigger Picture

“I want to be an asset to the community,” Doran told me. This means providing takeout meals, catered lunches or just a great coffee to go. Learning from his father, who owns Shrewsbury Bicycles and always gave back to that town, Doran is ready to take his turn and give back. 

For a guy whose biggest passion is “using all local places” to both enrich his customer’s experiences and “feature what the Garden State has,” he’s doing a downright excellent job. A job that’s certainly keeping us thankful for a place that’s Almost Home.

Menu Image

Almost Home General
276 Sunnyside Rd.
Lincroft
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NJ Restaurant Openings, Including The Brielle River House and More

The Garden State is brimming with new food and drink spots to try—as well as several on the way. August at the Jersey Shore will bring the return of the Brielle River House after renovations. Farther south, Drifters offers fresh summer fare and craft cocktails in Seaside Heights, while Morristown will soon celebrate the opening of Agricola’s second New Jersey location. Read on to learn more, and follow them all on social media for updates and announcements!

Popolari, Bloomfield

Popolari presents a retro and chic vibe for its Italian pizza and pasta bar. The restaurant serves popular Italian dishes, from Neapolitan pizza to American pizza, and plenty of pasta. Enjoy a meal in the outdoor pizza garden or indoor dining room. Open Tuesday through Saturday, 12 p.m. to 10p.m.; Sunday, 12 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Popolari
1047 Broad Street
Bloomfield, NJ
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Brielle River House, Brielle

This popular shore spot (shown at top) is preparing to reopen after taking a hiatus for renovations. The restaurant sits on the Manasquan River, with indoor and outdoor seating, with bars in both areas. Customers can enjoy specialty cocktails, an expansive wine menu, and high quality cuisine in a lovely riverfront setting.

Brielle River House
1 Ocean Avenue
Brielle, NJ
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Mexology, Elizabeth

At Mexology, the Garden Group’s newest venture, craft cocktails meet modern Mexican cuisine. The hospitality group opens its third restaurant in Elizabeth (the group currently owns The Garden in Elizabeth and Hornitos in Paterson). Customers can expect a casual taqueria with a more modern twist, set in a massive, 10,000 square-foot space, with Southern Mexican-inspired décor. Opening date is coming soon.

Mexology
270 Morris Avenue
Elizabeth, NJ

Ramen Nagomi, Freehold

Ramen Nagomi
Ramen Nagomi

Ramen Nagomi’s second location, in Freehold, is now open. This ramen spot features comforting ramen dishes, including soft shell miso crab, as well as appetizers such as rock shrimp tempura. Broths are made with organic chicken and the pork is certified humane and hormone free, from Niman Ranch. Noodles are by Myojo Noodles. Open Wednesday through Monday, 12 p.m. to 3:30 p.m., and 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Ramen Nagomi
5 W Main Street
Freehold, NJ
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BK Lobster, Linden

BK Lobster
BK Lobster

BK Lobster Linden is a fast-casual luxury restaurant franchise. The menu includes a variety of lobster rolls, with added emphasis on the use of the finest Maine lobster. Reservations are not required.

BK Lobster
1600 East St. George’s Avenue
Linden, NJ

Las Olas Taqueria, Marmora

Las Olas
Las Olas Taqueria

Las Olas brings authentic Mexican cuisine to this small Cape May County town. Owner Joe Papano spent years in Mexico and Southern California, where he grew a passion for creating the perfect tacos. Try the made-to-order dishes, including the al pastor tacos and Mexican street corn. Open Tuesday through Saturday, 11:30 .a.m to 7:30 p.m.

Las Olas Taqueria
4 Roosevelt Boulevard #4
Marmora, NJ

Agricola, Morristown

Agricola
Agricola

At Agricola, food is a universal language. The popular Princeton eatery—which is a member of Harvest Restaurant Group—is expanding its concept into Morristown. In Latin, “Agricola” means “farmer,” which embodies the restaurant’s farm-to-table spirit and its dedication to community and comfort. Coming this fall.

Agricola
40 West Park Place
Morristown, NJ
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Fiorentini, Rutherford

Fiorentini is slated to open in Rutherford sometime this summer, though the grand opening date is TBD. The restaurant will serve authentic Italian cuisine with a global and modern flare, though its official menu has not been released. Stay tuned, and follow them on Facebook and Instagram for more details.

Fiorentini
98 Park Avenue
Rutherford, NJ

Drifters, Seaside Heights

cocktails at Drifters
Drifters

This seafood-centric new spot offers small plates, a raw bar, and signature cocktails. Stop in and enjoy live music, as well as cocktails such as the Dead a Head: a twist on a watermelon margarita. Plus, their outdoor area has beach vibe, with sand and picnic tables. Raw bar options include local and imported oysters, top neck clams, and tune poke. Open Wednesday through Sunday, 5 p.m. to 12 a.m.

Drifters
701 Boulevard
Seaside Heights, NJ
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Mahana Fresh, Toms River

Mahana Fresh has franchise locations all over the country. Now, it’s coming to New Jersey; Owner Ed Bush is opening the state’s first location in Toms River. Customers can create bowls loaded with options such as basmati rice, honey sriracha Brussels sprouts, and spicy ahi tuna, or choose from one of the signature bowls. Opening date is TBD.

Mahana Fresh
2 NJ-37 Unit 3B
Toms River, NJ
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El Tuque, Vineland

El Tuque
El Tuque

El Tuque brings Puerto Rican flare to Vineland. With a menu that changes regularly, there’s always something new to try, including mofongos (a traditional dish involving plantains and meat or seafood) and fresh desserts, such as tembleque (a Puerto Rican coconut pudding). El Tuque offers a family-friendly, casual atmosphere.

El Tuque
623 E Landis Avenue
Vineland, NJ

If you missed last month’s lineup, you can find that here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vintage Vibes in Wood-Ridge, at Gus’ Last Word

Skopos Hospitality currently operates four successful restaurants around New Jersey, including Cowan’s Public, in Nutley, and the Barrow House, in Clifton, as well as a delivery-only fried-chicken concept, Dottie’s Crispy Chicken. Now, Skopos owners Thomas and Dean Maroulakos recently opened a sixth eatery in the North Jersey area: Gus’ Last Word. The 1950s-inspired spot opened on July 7, in Wood-Ridge.

Cocktails at Gus' Last Word
Cocktails at Gus’ Last Word

Gus’ Last Word features American food with plenty of vintage décor. The inspiration behind the restaurant comes from Gus himself—Thomas and Dean’s grandfather. “It’s an homage to the classic bars of the 1950s,” said Skopos’ digital marketing director, Dominique Marinzulich. “Gus was a real person. He had a bar in his basement and loved to host parties.”

Goffle Farm Chicken - Maitake Mushroom, Pea Sprouts, Baby Potatoes, Sauce Supreme
Goffle Farm chicken: Maitake mushroom, pea sprouts, baby potatoes, sauce supreme

Though Skopos wanted to bring a vintage bar feel to the space, the restaurant will certainly be family friendly—but also will be open late with more of a nighttime bar vibe later in the evening. Gus’ Last Word will offer around a dozen specialty cocktails, most of which are based on traditional, well-known drinks.

Personal Touch

“We’ll have a Last Word on the menu, which is a classic cocktail that Gus loved,” Marinzulich adds. The drink is a gin-based cocktail, made with green chartreuse, lime, and maraschino liqueur—a cocktail that became popular during prohibition and has since been brought back to life. “That was one of his favorite drinks.” 

Hanger Steak - Potato Puree, Asparagus, Roasted Garlic, Demi Glace
Hanger steak: potato puree, asparagus, roasted garlic, demi glace

As for its location, Gus’ Last Word’s owners were drawn to Wood-Ridge because of their familiarity with the town. “I spent several years living in nearby Lodi and a number of our partners have roots in the town,” Thomas Maroulakos said. He also adds that Wood-Ridge is “a great community with a small-town atmosphere.”

Gus’ Last Word
191 Valley Blvd.
Wood-Ridge, NJ

 

Back to the Beach with “I Never Sausage a Hot Dog!”

Last year, you might have opted to spend National Hot Dog Month grilling in your backyard with a couple of people who were all sitting as far apart from each other as possible. Now that it’s safer to go out, you can choose to celebrate National Hot Dog Day, on July 21, in a bigger way this year…and maybe at the beach!

You may recall that New Jersey is the epicenter of the hot dog universe, so you’re sure to find a great place at the Jersey Shore to celebrate the day without looking too hard. Here are five of my favorites, which fly a little bit under the radar. Happy Hot Dog Day!

Midway Steak House, Seaside Heights

midway

I kick off every summer by heading to the dead center of the Seaside Heights boardwalk and having a traditional sausage sandwich at the Midway Steak House. I have it served “all the way,” smothered in onions, peppers, and marinara sauce. You’ll be able to smell the aromas wafting from this long-standing sausage stand before you ever see the giant rotating sign on top. You might have to stand shoulder-to-shoulder, two or three people deep before you’re served, but the service is super fast. Enjoy people watching while you eat along one of the best boardwalks in New Jersey!

Midway Steak House
500 Boardwalk
Seaside Heights, NJ

Relish Hot Dog & Sausage Company, Belmar

Relish hot dogs exterior

Relish Hot Dog & Sausages, in Belmar, is back this season. After a break last year, they’re serving up some great options once again. Eschewing a traditional hot dog bun, Relish stuffs its hot dogs and sausages into delightful hollowed-out rolls with a chewy texture that’s more akin to a bagel than to bread.

The “The Roman,” hot dog at Relish in Belmar
The Roman hot dog at Relish, in Belmar

Start with the Classic, a quarter-pound beef hot dog that features both Jersey tomato relish and a house pickle relish, plus dijon mustard. It’s topped off with a pepperoncini spear. If you’re still hungry, you can’t go wrong with The Roman, a hot Italian sausage covered with roasted pepper relish, caramelized onion relish, herb aioli, and pepperoncini. Mangia!

Relish Hot Dog & Sausages
1303 Main Street
Belmar, NJ

Olde Heidelberg, Keansburg

Olde Heidelberg, Keansburg
Olde Heidelberg, in Keansburg

The Olde Heidelberg Inn has done one thing really well since they opened all the way back in 1934: slinging jumbo hot dogs to hungry customers along the Keansburg boardwalk. After the joint was destroyed by Superstorm Sandy in 2012, it reopened with new owners who kept the same old-man bar atmosphere but doubled the size of the menu by adding the option of crinkle-cut fries into the mix. Not much else has changed, and the folks who run it also happen to manage the rest of the boardwalk, too. Family-friendly rides, a free beach, and excellent people make Keansburg the hidden gem of the Jersey shore!

Olde Heidelberg Hot Dogs
Olde Heidelberg hot dogs

Olde Heidelberg
Keansburg Amusement Park
275 Beachway Avenue
Keansburg, NJ

Hot Dog Tommy’s, Cape May

Hot Dog Tommy’s, Cape May
Hot Dog Tommy’s, Cape May

Cape May is many things to many people. It’s the southernmost point in New Jersey, the nation’s oldest seaside resort, and the home of the Hot Dog Tommy’s, a must-do hot dog stand that’s ideal for when you’ve found yourself at the Parkway’s end.

Hot dogs from Tommys

Serving up a wide range of topping combinations with all sorts of clever names. (This was the first place I saw use the word glizzy on its menu, and if you don’t know what that is, it’s OK—just ask a teenager.)

Hot Dog Tommy’s, Cape May
Patrons wait outside of Hot Dog Tommy’s, in Cape May

However creative the menu may get, though, this is a classic joint where you can get your hot dog served all dressed up or completely naked. Either way, you’ll have a great meal dished by the ever-friendly Tommy, who’s known for wearing his distinct hot-dog-shaped hat.

Hot Dog Tommy’s
319 Beach Avenue Rear Jackson, at Beach
Cape May, NJ

Tower Dogs, Asbury Park

Tower Dogs, Asbury Park
Tower Dogs, Asbury Park

One of the few places that’s truthfully advertising a hot dog that’s made specifically for them, Tower Dogs has finally found its forever home along the Asbury Park Boardwalk after skipping around the state for a few years.

Tower Dogs, Asbury Park
Tower Dogs, Asbury Park

Serving up an all-beef hot dog that has somehow managed to maintain a satisfyingly crunchy snap despite being skinless, Tower Dogs has something for everyone. From “Haute” dogs smothered in decadent and creative toppings, to vegan options, it is worth making the time to sit and enjoy the view from the spacious tables set up directly on the boardwalk across from the ocean.

Tower Dogs
800 Ocean Avenue
Asbury Park, NJ

Cranford’s Little Mediterranean Is Worth the Trip

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How much does it cost to go from Newark Airport to the Mediterranean? Give up? About $30 if you take an Uber or $12 if you jump on a NJ Transit train. Before you start booking your next European vacation through Uber, I need to come clean. While it’s not quite the Mediterranean, one tiny section of North Union Avenue in Cranford, NJ, has a Lebanese, Moroccan, Syrian, and Greek restaurant that might make you think otherwise.

New Jersey has long been a multicultural hub, with ethnic enclaves sprinkled throughout the state. These small outposts, like Union City’s Havana on the Hudson, South Paterson’s Little Arabia, and Hammonton’s unnamed Little Italy have provided so many of us with the opportunity to experience an authentic window into their respective culinary worlds.

Over the years, as population trends have shifted, some of these neighborhoods have evolved. For instance, the Peruvian-owned bakeries and restaurants that now line Market Street’s Little Lima were once referred to as Dublin, an Irish district and home to hundreds of Celtic silk mill workers. Are we witnessing the creation of a new Little Mediterranean neighborhood happening in real time, in Cranford?

If you haven’t had the pleasure of visiting, here’s an overview: Cranford is a quaint suburban township in Union County with an idyllic downtown worthy of being the setting of any Candace Cameron Bure movie. The town center has won numerous “best of” awards over the years and is chock-full of shops, coffee houses, and mom-and-pop restaurants that adorn the intersecting side streets.

Over the last few years, however, new dining options have started to reshape Cranford’s restaurant scene. Don’t be shocked in you find yourself in the midst of a flavor tornado of charred Lebanese lemon swirling with the dueling aroma of Barbary Coast mint and Syrian fattoush as you walk to your favorite antique shop.

The Trendsetter: Old City Café & Grill

Old City Café & Grill
Old City Café & Grill

In 2012, Rafi Mamroud started it all when he opened the Old City Café & Grill, offering Lebanese cuisine and traditional Middle Eastern fare. At the time, such cuisine was not readily available in that part of New Jersey. Mamroud really enjoyed living in Cranford but grew tired of driving up to Paterson for decent Middle Eastern food. So he decided to open his own restaurant. With a biography that rivals the Dos Equis Guy for most interesting Man in the World status, Mamroud funneled his worldly experiences and Lebanese and Armenian ancestry into his menu.

Old City Cafe pizza oven

When I asked what food he would recommend to first-time guests, he didn’t hesitate to say “all of them, trust me.” He did narrow it down to the Old City Platter, a trio of kebabs and Tawook. I also asked what he thought of the new competition on the block. He took it as a compliment and liked the idea of being the trendsetter, taking the “imitation is the best form of flattery” angle. Also: be on the lookout for Mamroud’s forthcoming line of Lebanese-style pizzas, suggesting that no one else could match them.

He gushed over his mother’s baking skills, calling her his inspiration. He noted that his baklava, made with house-made simple syrup, is a draw even for other local restaurant owners, who have been known to stop over after hours to enjoy it.

Old City Café and Grill
20 N Union Avenue
Cranford, NJ

A Suburban Oasis

The Oasis Restaurant
The Oasis Restaurant

Like most people, when Adam Mesbahi drove through Cranford, he fell in love with the downtown. So he decided to move his Springfield, NJ, restaurant to town. He and Kaoutar, who is his general manager—and sister—both from the Moroccan city of Fez, got this done as a team, and the Oasis Restaurant opened just before the pandemic hit.

They survived the quarantine by offering takeout orders of their sweet and savory dishes like their Pastilla, a pie stuffed with chicken, almonds and topped with sugar and cinnamon.

Old World Cafe pizza oven

I asked Kaoutar if they had concerns being so close to Old City (across the street) and Ambeli Greek Tavern (next door). “The best part of Moroccan food is that even if we had another restaurant right next to us, the subtle differences in spice and preparation from one chef to the other makes everything worth trying,” she said. She suggested I try the chicken tagine with lemon and olives, which hit the spot. And my personal favorite was the very mint-forward Moroccan tea. 

Moroccan tea
Moroccan tea from The Oasis

Oasis Restaurant
21 N. Union Avenue
Cranford, NJ

New Kid on the Block: Syrian Dish

Isaa Elias opened Syrian Dish this past June selling takeout dishes like baba ghanoush, falafel, and hummus. Elias has been in the restaurant business for over two decades and has brought his favorite recipes from his homeland. He is confident that his take on classic Mediterranean favorites will differentiate from the rest of the block. Stop by and see for yourself!

Syrian Dish
12 N. Union Avenue
Cranford, NJ

Local Mainstay: Ambeli Greek Taverna

Immediately across the black top sea from Old City Cafe, you’ll find the Ambeli Greek Taverna. This spot has been a destination for Greek cuisine since 2015. Classic Greek dishes like charred octopus and grilled souvlaki served at this Cranford BYOB will have you coming back for more. Whether you dine al fresco or inside the Mediterranean-themed dining room, the waitstaff will surely make you feel like part of the family.

Ambeli Greek Taverna
12 N. Union Avenue
Cranford, NJ

In a few years when one of your friends asks you to check out the July 4 baklava-eating contest in Little Mediterranean, remember who coined the term first. Now all Cranford needs is a proper hookah lounge and they’ll be all set. 

Note: All of these restaurants also offer plenty of vegetarian options as well.

The Scoop on New Jersey’s Newest Ice Cream Spots

National Ice Cream Day is Sunday, July 18. Cool off with a visit to one of New Jersey’s newest ice cream shops!

The Baked Bear

Brownie ice cream sandwich
7 The Baked Bear’s brownie ice cream sandwich

Long Branch’s newest creamery offers plenty of flavor options for its massive ice cream sandwiches, but co-owner Elly Hess encourages those “looking for something different” to try the Bear Batter, Blackberry Crumble, or Toasted S’mores options.

The Baked Bear has over a dozen original-recipe cookies and ice cream flavors, giving guests a chance to mix and match to find their favorite combination,” Hess said. And they’ll even warm the cookies up for you beforehand. Open Sunday through Thursday, 12 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday. 12 p.m. to midnight.

The Baked Bear
15 Morris Avenue Unit 115
Long Branch

Chez Gelato and Pastry

This 100% gluten-free dessert shop features homemade gelato, as well as vegan gelato and sorbetto. Flavors range from chocolatey options such as cookie crunch, to fruity options such as strawberry cheesecake. In addition to gelato, Chez offers plenty of homemade, gluten-free treats, including chocolate chip cookies and rainbow cakes. Open Tuesday through Friday, 1 p.m. to 8 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Chez Gelato and Pastry
206 Centennial Avenue
Cranford

The Chocolate Bar

The Chocolate Bar
The Chocolate Bar

The Chocolate Bar, whose Little Silver location opened in August 2020, offers authentic Italian gelato from scratch, plus hand-dipped chocolates. Master chocolatier Neil Grote, Jr., who has been operating the shop’s Westfield location for 17 years, makes all gelato and chocolates for both locations himself. This spot also serves Jersey Shore Coffee Roasters coffee and espresso. The Little Silver location is open Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. 

The Chocolate Bar
78 Oceanport Avenue
Little Silver

Churn House Ice Cream & Cereal Bar

Churn House Ocean City
Churn House Ice Cream & Cereal Bar (Photo: Jane Mitt)

Churn House takes a new approach to ice cream with its cereal-infused flavors. Customers choose either vanilla, chocolate, or vegan vanilla ice cream to be combined with the cereal of their choice (Froot Loops, Reese’s Puffs, and so many more). Then a churn machine creates the customized flavor, turning it into either soft serve or a milkshake. Visitors can add even more toppings to their flavor of choice. Open daily, 2 p.m. to 11 p.m.

Churn House Ice Cream & Cereal Bar
Corner of 33rd & Asbury
Ocean City

Courtney’s Ice Cream Shoppe

Courtney’s serves up everything ice cold, from ice cream to cold brew. This mom-and-pop-style ice cream parlor serves Nasto’s ice cream, a Newark-based brand that owner Courtney McShane has loved for years. The shop’s cold brew comes from Asbury Park, and there are even vegan ice cream options available from Emack and Bolios, a Boston-based brand. Open Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 12 p.m. to 10 .pm.

Courtney’s Ice Cream Shoppe
526 Main Street
Avon-By-The-Sea

Diane’s Dairy

Ice cream cone in front of Dianes Dairy
Diane’s Dairy

Diane’s Dairy opened its doors in June 2021. Owner Diane Manganelli has been making ice cream for more than a decade—and decorating cakes for twice that time. “I enjoy being creative with my customers to personalize any cake for you or your loved one,” she said. Try Diane’s flavors named after local areas, such as Valhalla Red Velvet and Pine Brook Peach. Open daily, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Diane’s Dairy
446 Main Road #8
Towaco

Four Boys Ice Cream

Four Boys Ice Cream
Four Boys Ice Cream

Named in honor of owners Peter and JoAnn Becker’s four sons, Four Boys has been thriving since it started as an ice cream truck, in 1999. The franchise’s newest location opened in April in Hightstown, and with six locations around New Jersey, it isn’t hard to find a Four Boys nearby. Try the classic vanilla and chocolate, or the vegan or sugar-free options. Visit the website for hours.

Four Boys Ice Cream
Locations in Englishtown, Jamesburg, Jackson, Milltown, Farmingdale, and Hightstown

Francy’s Artisanal Ice Cream

triple scoop ice cream cone from Francy's
Francy’s Artisanal Ice Cream

At Francy’s, visitors can expect the ice cream flavors to change with the seasons—and they might even see a few Filipino flavors on the menu. Francy’s offers unique flavors, many of which are fruit-inspired, such as pineapple and melon. Be sure to try the cannoli, pistachio, and hazelnut Piemonte flavors as well. Open daily, 12 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Francy’s Artisanal Ice Cream
Foster Village Shopping Center
Bergenfield

Haven’s Sweet Shop

Over 20 assorted flavors including specialty recipes to traditional favorites, their ice cream choices will satisfy even the most demanding sweet tooth.  Haven’s Sweet Shop pledges to always carry the highest quality ice cream around and always have options for vegans, sugar free needs, gluten free, dairy free and nut free selections. 

Haven’s Sweet Shop
512 Bay Avenue
Point Pleasant Beach, NJ 08742

Ice House

Ice House Hillsborough
Ice House

Pair your favorite ice cream with one of four different cones (or a cup!) at this new Hillsborough ice cream shop. With can’t-miss flavors and tasty ice cream cakes, plus frozen yogurt and dairy-free options, there’s something for every sweet tooth. Try exciting flavors such as cookie butter craze, midnight peanut butter marshmallow, or coffeehouse cookies and cream. Open Monday through Thursday, 12 p.m. to 9:30p.m., Friday, 12 p.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.

Ice House
378 South Branch Road
Hillsborough

Nicholas Creamery

Nicholas Creamery
Nicholas Creamery

Nicholas Creamery recently opened its third location in Tinton Falls. The shop hand-makes its small-batch ice cream—and ice cream cakes—using pure ingredients.

“Nothing makes us happier than serving up scoops and smiles to the incredible communities that have welcomed our sweet vision with open hearts—and spoons,” said co-owner Jodie Edwards. Open Sunday through Wednesday, 12 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Thursday, 12 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 12 p.m. to 10:30pm.

Nicholas Creamery
Locations in Atlantic Highlands, Fair Haven, and Tinton Falls

Norton’s Main Scoop

Nortons Ice Cream
Norton’s Main Scoop

Come to Norton’s for fresh, creamy, delicious ice cream. They’re devoted to offering small-batch, unique flavors, and everything is homemade—including the dairy-free and vegan options. Owner Kim Norton takes great care in sourcing fresh fruit and using the most natural ingredients and extracts available to provide delicious treats. Open Sunday through Thursday, 1 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Fri and Saturday, 1 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Norton’s Main Scoop
140b Main Street
Manasquan

Pure Twist (shown at top)

At Pure Twist, visitors can chow down on tasty, dairy-free soft serve ice cream. Newly opened as of July 1, Pure Twist offers matcha, strawberry, and pineapple ice cream flavors, to name a few. The dairy-free base consists of oat milk, cashews, raw sugar, sunflower lecithin, vanilla, and local sea salt, paired with other organic ingredients to create a full, delicious product. Open Monday through Thursday, 4 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday through Sun 4 p.m. to 10pm.

Pure Twist
9410 2nd Avenue
Stone Harbor

Scoop to My Lou 

At Scoop to My Lou, the ice cream is homemade on site with high-quality ingredients. Flavors range from classics such as cake batter and butter pecan to less common options including orange pineapple and kitchen sink (vanilla ice cream loaded with brownie bites, cookie dough, M&Ms, and more). Seasonal summer flavors, such as key lime pie, are also available. Open daily 12 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Scoop to My Lou
59 Main Street
East Brunswick

Trenton Ice Cream Parlor

Trenton Ice Cream Parlor
Trenton Ice Cream Parlor

When a 13-year-old autistic child had a dream of building an ice cream shop, she created a 3D model of her desires and dreams to express what she could not say in words. She carefully carried the school project home and presented it to her parents. It sat among other fine artwork until it was given new life: The Trenton Ice Cream Parlor is the real-life version of this child’s diorama—and her dreams. Modeled after her inner spirit—that Trenton can indeed make, and the world should indeed take. Open Monday through Thursday, 2 p.m. to 7 p.m.; Friday through Sunday, 12:30 p.m. to 7 p.m.

Trenton Ice Cream Parlor
969 South Broad Street
Trenton

ESO Artisanal Pasta, Made with Love in Morristown

The idea of making pasta from scratch often leads to the question, “Who’s got time for that?” New Jersey chef and skateboarder, AJ Sankofa, subscribes to a different school of thought. For him, the time this process takes is a top selling point.

AJ photo customers
Chef with customers

Technique and Time

“It’s just time,” Sankofa said. “We spend eight hours cooking tomato sauce. Then 12 hours for our ragu, which is beef shoulder, pancetta, and different meats simmered to perfection. We do a lot of preliminary technique. [Then we] unify it all in a pot at the end to create one huge umami, basically.”

Pasta with ESO sauce
Pasta with sausage and ESO ragu

Chef Sankofa focuses on quality. He uses culinary techniques he learned from mentors who have received Michelin stars. His pasta is created from imported Italian flour to offer fine, hand-crafted food products for those who might not otherwise get them. As a result, he’s making pasta at a grassroots level in an attempt to bring handmade, gourmet Italian cuisine to New Jersey.

 NJ Monthly
Sankofa in New Jersey Monthly Magazine

“Working in restaurants, a lot of people take the shortcut route,” said the 23-year-old from Hell’s Kitchen (in Manhattan). “My priority is making the food as good as possible—like I am cooking for myself. That’s important to hold on to. I want to provide people with the type of meals I ate when I spent time in Italy.”

Pasta to Write Home About

Sankofa currently lives and works in Morristown, NJ. During his career in hospitality, he has spent a collective 14 months mastering his craft and working as a chef in Northern Italy. Now he’s applying his earned cooking skills to his own business, ESO Artisanal Pasta.

ESO spaghetti
ESO’s fresh spaghetti

“What we do is simple. Our ingredients come directly from Italy. We have the equipment and technique for real, authentic cuisine,” explained Sankofa. “I’d say 95 percent of people eat pasta. So, if you have any appreciation for fresh spaghetti and fresh tomato sauce, this is the freshest you can get. It’s a different category.”

Sankofa continued to explain that the pasta and sauce he makes is less refined and true to the roots of Italian cooking. For this reason, products from ESO Artisanal Pasta vary drastically from what most consumers will find on supermarket shelves.

“We’re happy to provide a unique, quality product that you can’t find anywhere else.”

bags of fresh pasta
Fresh pasta

Sankofa’s business has supplied customers with homemade pasta and sauce since July 2020. And now he’s opened a new ESO Artisanal Pasta retail location in Morristown.

ESOs new location
ESO’s brick-and-mortar location

A Look Back

Just seven years prior, Sankofa was part of the opening crew at Jockey Hollow Bar & Kitchen, also in Morristown. At the time, he was just a young kid who loved skateboarding and had no aspirations to make hospitality his career. Just like any other teenager with a restaurant job, he had much to learn.

“I went from busboy to food runner,” said Sankofa. “So I was seeing how the kitchen worked and the passion they put into the food, and I was drawn to the culinary side of things. I dropped out of Fairleigh Dickinson University to pursue the Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners in Northwestern Italy.”

Sankofa admits to the nerves that came with this decision—not to mention how he had to explain it to his mother. Yet, just like his current cooking motto, he was committed to doing it right. Sankofa went on to receive his master’s degree from the Institute. During that time, he worked at Foradori Winery—harvesting grapes and cooking lunch for his team.

“I also worked in Ristorante Larossa, in Alba, which is the white truffle capital of the world,” he said, about a place where he’d later return to work full-time preparing meat, fish, pasta, and pastries.

Chef brought his newfound kitchen skills back to Jockey Hollow as well as to Legacy Records, in New York City. Before the pandemic led to his furlough, Sankofa met his now-fiancé and partner-in-pasta, Kristina Gambarian, at Legacy Records. Today, Sankofa credits ESO’s success to his Italian mentors as well as to Kevin Sippel, executive chef at Jockey Hollow.

From Bored to In Business

During the spring of 2020, Sankofa and Gambarian were “bored” during the first lockdown. As a result, the two hatched entrepreneurial endeavors known as Babushka’s Pies and (of course) ESO Artisanal Pasta.

“Babushka’s Pies was a cake-and-pie delivery business with my fiancé,” he said. “That business gave us the foreground to start ESO. We got experience with marketing and ordering when we started pies in April, and by July we’d fully opened ESO and put ourselves out there.”

Both businesses were based off and born during the pandemic when consumers were not getting restaurant quality food. The pair of chefs set their sights on delivering this experience to customers’ homes.

“It was really successful because you couldn’t go out and get a bowl of pasta,” remembered Sankofa. “We opened our doors to bring families closer together. There was a need for high-quality food in North Jersey, and who doesn’t like pasta?”

Open for Business

Sankofa opened with an online storefront, but was quickly invited to operate retail out of Andrea Lekberg’s space at the Artist Baker. The two businesses shared the location for pickup orders and now it’s jettisoned ESO into a space of its own.

“Now we’re expanding what we do. The new place will be for retail, merch, skateboards, olive oil, and rice.”

Sankofa revealed that his teenage busboy years at Jockey Hollow were also filled with hours and hours of skateboarding with good friends. While he doesn’t find as much time to skate these days, Chef AJ plans to use his new storefront to promote the awesome skateboarding community in Northern NJ.

AJ on skateboard
Sankofa gets some air.

“We’ll also be incorporating Babushka’s Pies into our regime,” Sankofa said. People have been waiting for pies since we put that on hold. We’re excited to make the storefront a place to enjoy on a nice summer say—pastries and the ability to dine here or take out. I’m excited to execute it.”

ESO Artisanal Pasta
92A Elm Street
Morristown, NJ 
Website

The Jersey City Summer Beer, Wine & Spirits Fest Coming July 16

This sponsored post is brought to you by the Jersey City Summer Fest.
 

Use code JERSEYBITES for $20 off each General Admission ticket when you purchase online.

Get ready to try your favorite local brews, international wines, and top spirits from around the country at the Jersey City Summer Beer, Wine & Spirits Fest. And, get $20 off with code JERSEYBITES!
 
 
JC Beer and Wine Festival

What?

Guests will enjoy samples of over 100 styles of beer, wine, and spirits as well as access to delicious food and great live music for the entire session.
Guests playing corn holeJersey City Summer Fest is a perfect opportunity for guests to meet and hang out with friends to enjoy the libation of their choice. Summer Fest is your all-access pass to emerging and renowned breweries, wineries and spirits from around the corner to across the globe. Guests will enjoy samples for the entire evening paired with live entertainment, food vendors, and interactive games.
Guys drinking beer
With over 100 different samples to try, it’s a great place to discover new brews, wines, and spirits—and to speak to brewery representatives, sommeliers, and master distillers.

When

  • July 16, 2021
  • 6:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Where

The Urby Parking Lot
200 Greene Street
Jersey City

Tickets

  • Get $20 off with code JERSEYBITES 
  • Buy tickets here!
  • All tickets include tastings, live music, interactive games, and more.
  • Live music from Empire Band!

Who’s Coming?

  • 902 Brewing
  • All Points West
  • Babe Wine
  • Brown-Forman
  • Corgi Spirits
  • Dad’s Hat Pennsylvania Rye
  • Departed Soles
  • Dry Fly Distilling
  • Ghost Hawk Brewing
  • Grand Brulot VSOP Cognac Café
  • Hoboken Brewing
  • Jewel of Russia
  • Misunderstood Whiskey
  • Neft Vodka
  • Señor Sangria
  • Shinju Japanese Whisky
  • Somrus Coffee
  • Uncle Nearest
  • The Vale Fox Distillery
  • And more!

On the Menu

  • Angry Archie’s
  • Chavas Empanadas
  • Mozzarepas
  • Twelve Food Truck
  • And more!

NOTE: This is a 21+ event. No children, toddlers, babies, or pets are allowed in the venue.

Jersey City Summer Beer, Wine & Spirits Fest
Friday, July 16, 2021
Urby Parking Lot
200 Greene St
Jersey City, NJ 07311
Session: 6:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Over 100 styles of beer, wine, and spirits to try!
JERSEYBITES $20 off: Click here for tickets!
 

Belmar Kitchen: Recently Opened and Perfectly Paired

The writer was invited to visit Belmar Kitchen and the meal was complimentary.
 

Sharing a roof, ownership, and management with Beach Haus Brewing, Belmar Kitchen by David Burke completes the “food + beer = perfection” equation. No stranger to beer-centric cuisine, Executive Chef Steven Johnson employed several strategies to create a thoughtful lineup of pairings for Jersey Bites.

Beach Haus brewery interior
Beach Haus Brewing interior
Shrimp Crostini from Belmar Kitchen
Spicy shrimp crostini

Beach Haus Swash Witbier with Shrimp Bruschetta

The witbier is hopped with Hallertau Blanc, which gives this beer a distinct white wine character. It makes for a classic white wine-and-seafood pairing. The beer offered a touch of citrus, which cuts through the buttery crostini and refreshes the palate for each next bite. And the dish had a nice, spicy component from the jalapeños, which worked well with the rich wheat malt of the beer.

wood fired heirloom carrots and brussels sprouts
Wood-fired heirloom carrots and brussels sprouts

Freeworld IPA with Wood-Fired Heirloom Carrots and Brussels

IPAs can be tough to pair with food. Freeworld, which is hopped with Citra, Cascade, and Mosaic, leans toward the bold bitterness of a West Coast-style IPA. Chef employed a push-pull strategy when he paired this beer with roasted heirloom carrots and sprouts. The sweetness in the carrots helps pull out the malt background of the beer to even out that signature IPA bitterness. Then the touch of sriracha honey in the dish pulled that bitterness back out again. 

Pan Seared Salmon
Pan-seared salmon

Beach Haus Lite Haus with Pan-Seared Salmon

Lite Haus is a crisp pilsner that has a slightly earthy note. It played the role of supporting actor to the perfectly prepared salmon. This is a rich dish and the Lite Haus scrubs and preps the palate for each next bite. I might have been tempted to pair the witbier with this, but it would have competed for more attention. It is best to let the salmon stay in the spotlight here. Chef lovingly referred to this dish as his “deconstructed lox and bagel.” Everything bagel seasoning tops the fish, which is plated with cucumber-tomato farro, Za’atar Labne, and capers. It was a real winner, and probably our favorite dish of the night. We even recommended it to people seated next to us. 

Nut Haus Porter with cheesecake pops, cotton candy and bubble gum whipped cream.
Nut Haus Porter with cheesecake pops, cotton candy, and bubble gum whipped cream.

Nut Haus Porter with Cheesecake Pops, Cotton Candy, and Bubble Gum Whipped Cream

This big, sweet pecan porter dries out a little at the end in a peanut-skin kind of way. It’s definitely a dessert beer and these cheesecake pops are a spectacle of a dessert! That little touch of peanut skin dryness serves as a foil to the decadence of this dish. A chocolate stout would have pushed the whole thing over the edge.

This dessert is not something we would usually order, especially for just two people, but it is a fun way to do dessert (and is ideal for a special occasion). The cheesecake was surprisingly moist and was served with the most amazing housemade bubble gum whipped cream. We honestly did not taste any hint of bubble gum. It was just damn good, fresh whipped cream. 

Black Pepper and Maple Glazed “Bacon on a Clothesline”

Belmar Kitchen‘s signature “bacon on a clothesline” was not part of our dining experience that evening but lucky for us, there was no escaping that aroma. The glowing bacon is the first thing that greets you as you approach the restaurant from the brewery. I have to give them kudos for coming up with the best possible bait for beer lovers. 

wood fired pizza oven at Belmar Kitchen
Wood-fired pizza oven at Belmar Kitchen

Behind the tantalizing wall of bacon is the wood-fired pizza oven, used for the carrots and Brussels sprouts we enjoyed—as well as many other dishes on the menu. 

Belmar Kitchen dining room
Belmar Kitchen dining room

The restaurant has an industrial-meets-beach vibe, with white subway-tiled walls and quarry-tiled floors in the bar area and whitewashed faux-wood tabletops in the dining room. Bright pops of orange and cobalt blue color the walls. The seating consists of a mix of banquettes, high-top tables along the windows, and standard four- and six-seat tables. 

Many restaurants boast inspired tap lists, but few really understand how to set those beer options up with a perfect partner dish. It’s obvious that the Belmar Kitchen team understands that the right pairing can raise the enjoyment of both the food and the beer. That’s refreshing. 

Jersey Bites' Peter Culos with Belmar Kitchen Chef Steven Johnson
Jersey Bites writer Peter Culos with Executive Chef Steven Johnson 

Belmar Kitchen by David Burke
801 Main Street
Belmar, NJ 07719
Website

NJ Restaurant Openings, Including the Newest Ani Ramen Location

It’s so exciting to see the Garden State getting back to business with so many brand-new restaurant concepts popping up and others adding more locations. Ani Ramen has added a seventh location in New Jersey, with its latest venture in New Brunswick. The fast-casual health food concept, Fresh Kitchen, will be opening a third spot in early July, and Bubbakoo’s is now up to 36 locations here in NJ. Check out the scoop about these restaurants and more! Where will you be heading first? 

Homesick, Asbury Park

Interior of Homesick restaurant
Homesick, in Asbury Park

At Homesick, everything is made from scratch. Options such as mascarpone grit cakes and flatiron steak are paired with craft cocktails featuring combinations such as vodka, ginger, and lemongrass. Homesick is the newest addition to the Smith hospitality group, which owns restaurants including Porta and Pascal & Sabine. Open Sunday, Monday, and Thursday, 4 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 4 p.m. to 1 a.m.

Homesick
522 Cookman Ave.
Asbury Park, NJ

Port Coffee Roasters, Bay Head 

Port Coffee Roasters
Port Coffee Roasters, in Bay Head

Port Coffee Roasters is a small-batch coffee roaster owned by Greg and Grace Mazzatta whose long commitment to careful roasting produces an excellent cup of coffee. They offer a rotating selection of single-origin coffee beans. Each batch is roasted to order, to ensure freshness and complete satisfaction. 

Port Coffee Roasters
519 Main Ave.
Bay Head, NJ 08742

Erlton Social Craft Bar & Kitchen, Cherry Hill

Erlton Social is located at The Big Event on Kings Highway, making it much more than a restaurant. The space boasts an arcade, bowling alley, and pool hall. If you’re a beer connoisseur—or would like to be one—you will love the 24 beers on tap. Try pairing a craft brew with a short rib sandwich, garlic naan flatbread, or seared salmon entrée, among plenty of other options. Open Wednesday through Saturday, 4 p.m. to midnight; Sunday, 12 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Erlton Social Craft Bar & Kitchen
1536 North Kings Highway (Route 41)
Cherry Hill, NJ

Bella Trattoria E Pizzeria, Guttenberg 

Bella Trattoria E Pizzeria – Guttenberg
Bella Trattoria E Pizzeria, in Guttenberg

Bella Trattoria offers traditional Italian cuisine in a casual setting, but what sets this Italian restaurant apart from many is that breakfast and lunch are available daily as well. Start the day with a caprese omelet, or dine on homemade dishes, such as rigatoni Bolognese, for dinner. Open daily, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Bella Trattoria E Pizzeria
6717 Bergenline Ave.
Guttenberg, NJ

Fresh Kitchen, Little Silver

Fresh Kitchen salads
Fresh Kitchen, in Little Silver

Coming in early July, the healthy fast casual restaurant will open its third location at 88 Oceanport Avenue in Little Silver. Residents can look forward to their carefully designed menu of salads, grain bowls, wraps and stock pots that provides the maximum in nutrition while delivering in ultimate flavor.

Fresh Kitchen
88 Oceanport Avenue
Little Silver, NJ

Ani Ramen, New Brunswick

Ani Ramen, pictured at top, boasts seven locations all over New Jersey, and New Brunswick is its newest spot. This location has a liquor license and offers dozens of whiskies, sakes, and other spirits. Ani Ramen first opened in Montclair 2014, and its second location, in Jersey City, followed in 2017. In addition to serving ramen, the restaurant features dishes such as chicken karaage and pork bao buns. Open 4 p.m. to midnight.

Ani Ramen
37 Easton Ave.
New Brunswick, NJ

Vegbar, Newark

Tacos from Vegbar
Vegbar, in Newark

What started as a popup at a Jersey City farmers’ market, Vegbar has grown into a juice bar and fresh kitchen in downtown Newark and in Hoboken starting July 3rd. Vegbar provides a fresh and organic menu to its customers. Whether vegetarian, vegan, or just looking for healthy options, Vegbar has something for everyone. 

Open Tuesday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Vegbar
464 Newark St.
Hoboken, NJ

Delizioso Bakery & Kitchen, Princeton

Delizioso
Delizioso Bakery & Kitchen, in Princeton

With its roots in Jersey City, Delizioso recently expanded with the opening of its Princeton location. The menu features plenty of baked goods, plus breakfast and lunch. Options include the “famous” French toast, lemon zest pizza, and chickpea salad. Open Monday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Delizioso Bakery & Kitchen
205 Witherspoon St.
Princeton, NJ

Bubbakoo’s Burritos, Spotswood and Tinton Falls

Bubbakoos

This popular burrito chain was born in Point Pleasant—but Bubbakoo’s is now in nine states, including its most recent area locations in Spotswood, NJ, Tinton Falls, NJ, and Poughkeepsie, NY. Find all of their signature creations, including the Nashville hot crispy chicken burrito as well as General Tso’s chicken tacos. Open daily 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Bubbakoo’s Burritos
Visit website for locations

Foodies, South Hackensack

Foodies – South Hackensack
Foodies, in South Hackensack

A family-owned establishment, Foodies specializes in “diner classics with a modern twist.” Enjoy breakfast, lunch, or brunch at this family-friendly eatery, with savory chicken and waffles dish or sweet chocolate chip pancakes. Once a Foodie, always a Foodie. Open daily, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Foodies
582 Huyler Street
South Hackensack, NJ

Gus’ Last Word, Wood-Ridge

Gus' last word
Gus’ Last Word, in Wood-Ridge

Skopos Hospitality’s newest eatery pays homage to the 1950s bar scene. The family-friendly restaurant was inspired by Gus himself, the grandfather of Skopos owners Thomas and Dean Maroulakos. Be sure to try their Last Word, a cocktail known to be Gus’ favorite. Grand opening July 7. Open Wednesday and Thursday, 4 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 4 p.m. to 12 a.m.; Sunday 4 p.m. to 11 p.m. 

Gus’ Last Word
191 Valley Blvd.
Wood Ridge, NJ

Editor’s note: Hours and menu items are subject to change.

Attention tipsters and restaurant owners: Do you have a tip on a new restaurant, cocktail bar, coffee shop, gourmet store opening in your area? Tell us about it by emailing us at [email protected]. If you are a restaurant owner and would like us to know about your new spot, please let us know here!

What a Story: Milford’s Descendants Brewing at the Old Ship Inn

Descendants Brewing in Milford, New Jersey, located steps from the Delaware River and perched next to a picturesque millrace, is haunted. No, not in the whooo-whooo poltergeist sense, which its Victorian mansard roof might suggest. Descendants is haunted by its beloved past. That past traces back to the prideful builders who signed their names on the structure’s walls in 1879.

Descendants brewing

After serving many purposes over the years, the Victorian house earned its stripes as a pioneer in the fledgling craft beer movement. The Ship Inn was New Jersey’s first brewpub and became a mecca for craft beer enthusiasts. By the late 1990s and early 2000s, New Jersey was home to a handful of craft breweries in the state and a visit to one usually required a day trip. It was an event.

I made the trek to the Ship Inn, in Milford, many times even though I lived in a town that also had an early brew pub. An afternoon at the Ship, with all its Victorian rustic charm, could transport you to a different time and place.

Descendants brewing sign

Reinvented

So, how do you rebrand a legend? When Joe and Ana David bought the business they ran it as the Ship Inn for three years while carefully planning a transformation. They also saved the building from becoming office space. (I can’t imagine the horror of that and neither could Joe and Ana.) They also knew that the place needed a change. For all of the challenges it presented, COVID also gave them space to pause to make the subtle and sympathetic transition to Descendants Brewing.

Subtle change and sympathy for the past are themes that run throughout the experience at Descendants. The bar has been redone and the crazy plaid carpet is gone, but the place somehow retains the authentic British pub aesthetic it had as the Ship Inn.

The Beer

The tradition of good beer continues at Descendants. The brew house itself is a work of art. Made of gleaming copper, brick, and wood, it turns out some wonderfully authentic ales. Old Ship Inn fans will be delighted to know that the cask-conditioned Best Bitter is still on the hand pump and just as glorious as it ever was. I spent a good deal of time in the UK in the past and that beer, with its rich stone fruit character, takes me back there like no other beer can. Joe really nailed that one. “It’s fun to develop a new beer, but I was proud to execute that beer,” he told me.

beer flight at Descendants brewing

Typical British styles permeate the tap list. Alba gu Brath Wee Heavy, Eire Aontaithe Irish Oatmeal Stout are both fine examples of their style. Even their American Pale Ale, Darker Shade of Pale, has a bit of a British bent to it. It’s reminiscent of an English mild with a bigger hop kick and probably my second favorite from the tap list. If you can’t live without some haze, Fluffy Bunny checks the New England IPA box nicely.

Descendants also has an interesting guest tap list as well. Weihenstephan Weissbier, Chimay Doree Patersbier and Industrial Arts Metric Pilsner offer hints about some of the changes to the food menu.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the whiskey (and whisky, too!) list. That could be an article in and of itself. It doesn’t matter which version of the brown liquid you like, they have it in their carefully curated menu. Flights of three, one-ounce pours are available, too. It’s a whiskey lover’s dream.

Every Meal Tells a Story

“What’s your story?” is the tagline at Descendants. Joe and Ana tell some of their story through the new menu. “We had to decide what’s sacred,” Joe told us. So you will find old favorites like the fish and chips and Scotch eggs in the “From the Ol’ Ship” section of the menu. We sampled both of these suggested dishes and were very happy we did.

Fish and Chips
The Ship’s fish and chips, with one or two pieces of ale-battered wild cod, fries, tartar sauce

The Scotch Eggs brought me right back to my many trips to England. It’s the perfect pub fare and pairs well with their Best Bitter or Wee Heavy. We were surprised and thrilled by how light and tasty the fish and chips were. One thing my many trips to England have proven is that a fish and chips meal can leave you feeling like you’ve digested a cannonball. I don’t know how they do it, but these among the best I’ve tasted—and I love that you can decide whether it comes with one or two pieces of fish. 

Scotch Eggs
Scotch egg, with local egg, sausage, baked, served cold, hp sauce

The menu also celebrates Joe’s and Ana’s respective lineages. The “From the Fatherland” portion of the menu features Belgian- and Alsatian-inspired dishes such as Flammekueche: Alsation flatbread with Gruyère and pancetta. You may have trouble pronouncing it but you will have no trouble devouring it. This flatbread is perfect to nibble on while you are enjoying your flight of craft beer. The Belgian burger is black forest ham and smoked gouda. 

flatbread with gruyere, pancetta, house crème fraiche, red onion
Flammekueche Alsatian flatbread, with Gruyère, pancetta, house crème fraiche, red onion

For Ana’s heritage, “From the Motherland” includes selections like the Polish burger (kielbasa, sauerkraut, and cheddar), Brat Bites and Berliner Eisbein (beer-braised pork shank). The menu is as creative as it is reverent.

Kielbasa
Kielbasa sandwich, with kielbasa, sauerkraut, whole-grain mustard, steak roll, and a side of pierogi

Love for the Garden State

The “Home Sweet Home” section features local favorites like cheesesteak, wings, and the cleverly named Great Debate Burger with “pork roll/Taylor ham,” a local sunny-side-up egg, cheddar, and fries. We sampled the delicious—and gorgeous—crab cake, served on a bed of avocado and mixed greens with mango vinaigrette. Crab cake lovers: look for this dish.

descendants brewing crab cake
Crab cake napoleon, with avocado, mixed greens, mango vinaigrette

Your Story

At Descendants, everyone’s story is important, and they want to know yours, too. “After all, we are all descendants,” said Joe. He and Ana plan to host a contest that will reveal the best ancestral story of their patrons. The winner will design a special beer to be featured at the restaurant. In addition a video wall where guests will be able to hear other people’s stories is in the works, as sitting down with friends over a beer and telling stories has been a pastime in public houses as long as they have existed.

I can’t think of a better place to tell my tales than inside the storied walls of Descendants Brewing.

Descendant’s Brewing Company
61 Bridge Street
Milford, NJ 08848
908-995-0188
website

A True Flavor Awakening, Courtesy of Benchmark Breads

Along the Jersey Shore, yeast is a term most often used by the coast’s surfing community after sitting in a wet wetsuit all day. For professionals like Travis Coatney, yeast describes a living organism of great significance. Whether the yeasty culture is brought to life in Coatney’s kitchen or a nearby brewery, one might describe this relationship as something similar to Dr. Frankenstein and his monstrous creation. For this mastermind bread maker and brewer, the main difference is that Coatney’s experiments yield soft, warm bread and cold craft beer.

Yeast Is Born

“Put flour and water together and it eventually starts to ferment,” said Coatney. “You can keep feeding it to keep it active. This means throwing away most of it and adding water and flour. So, we feed our sourdough culture twice a day.”

Travis with mother

“Yeast has little flavor contribution, but this makes a lot more flavor than instant yeast or quick leavened bread,” he explained. “Commercial white bread has a single strain of yeast, but ours has hundreds of strains. Once you get a starter going it’s like a pet—you’re taking care of a living thing. And coming from the brewing world, I understand fermentation on a scientific level.”

Coatney’s creations don’t terrorize small villages, nor are they included in horror films. Instead, Benchmark Breads serves as the marketplace for Coatney’s naturally leavened artisan bread.

Benchmark Breads Country Loaf
Benchmark Breads Country Loaf

About the Bread

“We’re trying to make the simplest, most honest bread we can. It’s more of a return to the old way of doing things,” explained Travis Coatney. “Our standard country loaf is only flour, water, and salt.”

As a bread and yeast connoisseur, Coatney’s set high standards for Benchmark Breads. This bread is unique because it is “naturally leavened,” which means there’s no commercial yeast added to speed up the process. The result is a longer workday, but a superior end product.

“We strive for an open interior with bigger holes—a more tender bread that keeps longer with extra hydration,” said Coatney. “It has substance, it has flavor from whole grains, and sourdough culture twang. It’s not your San Francisco-style tart and sour bread. I hesitate to call it sourdough sometimes because it’s—technically—naturally leavened. When I say it, my wife rolls her eyes [laughs].”

Meet Travis Coatney

Coatney is a 35-year-old Texas native who planted his roots in New Jersey after meeting his now-wife while attending graduate school at Rutgers University. Coatney, his wife Betsy, and their kids currently reside in Middletown, NJ. Benchmark Breads sells all products through the preordering system on the company website. Customers can select bread delivery or pickup in Atlantic Highlands, NJ.

“The ghost kitchen is essentially the model we’re doing,” said Coatney. “We have a mutual friend who introduced us to Michael Krikorian, who owns Copper Canyon, in Highlands. He offered me the small prep kitchen in the basement of Gaslight. So that’s where I’ve been baking. He had a nice oven. Its super bare bones and we don’t have a retail space. We’re preorder for pickup at Copper Canyon, or we deliver.”

Benchmark Bread in bag with logo
Benchmark Breads

The Menu

For now, Benchmark Breads only really sells three items. The country loaf is the company’s core item and best seller—it’s an oval shaped loaf baked on a stone hearth. Coatney suggests this loaf for slicing and oil dipping but states the pan-baked country loaf is best for sandwiches.

White bread by Benchmark Breads
Pan-baked country loaf

“The country loaf has a pretty open interior—sandwiches can ooze through on that. We offer that same dough baked on a pan. It has a crusty outside and moist, tender inside,” explained Coatney. “On Mondays we also do a soft sandwich loaf and it’s got flour, water, salt, olive oil, and agave. It eats like soft white bread but it’s whole wheat. Kids love it. You could call it a ‘gateway’ sourdough.”

Coatney’s customers buy out Benchmark Breads on each bake. Business has boomed and Coatney is stepping up to meet demand. “We’ve got a big deck oven on the way. We should be able to quadruple our output soon, to try to grow the online business, too. We do want to have [brick-and-mortar] one day, but right now we like the simplicity of the current model. I don’t wanna bite off more than I can chew,” said Coatney.

On the Bread Scene

It’s not clear if Coatney’s pun was intentional or not, but it is easy to see how customers in the Monmouth County area would be quick to hop on board with an in-person Benchmark Breads. Coatney explained how his product is so very different from the options at the supermarket. The result is that individuals and businesses both have unrealized demand for fresh, handmade bread.

“No one else doing it. Talula’s in Asbury Park makes bread for themselves. But even at Whole Foods, the selection is all frozen stuff since Amazon took over. I see us morphing into a wholesale bakery with retail, too. Cardinal Provisions [also in Asbury] buys our bread and so does Almost Home in Tinton Falls.”

The next step for the Benchmark Breads retail selection is offering more than three items.

“We can start doing olive and polenta loaves,” said Coatney. “We’ll start doing farmer’s markets this summer, up in Leonardo [courtesy of Skeleton Hill Provisions]. Maybe some sweet things, too. Not pastries, but we make a mean sourdough cinnamon roll. And maybe we’ll do this Texas thing called a kolache—I like the smoked sausage inside, almost like pig in a blanket with fluffy, soft dough.”

Man holding loaf of bread

From Brewer to Baker

Coatney has come a long way from baking bread in his free time while working full-time as a brewer of craft beer. He has experience working at Kane Brewing in Ocean, NJ. Coatney has also worked at Rook in order to scale the business’s cold brew coffee production. He’s still a contract brewer and craft beer consultant at Red Tank, in Red Bank, and Czig Meister, in Hackettstown. The only reason he stopped brewing full-time was due to the pandemic and being furloughed.

“I was baking at home and giving it to friends and neighbors at first,” said Coatney. “Then I was getting calls and orders from random people. They thought I was a baker. So, we said there was something here since not a whole lot is offered as far as true sourdough with long fermentation and minimal ingredients.”

When conversing with Coatney, it becomes very clear that the world of bread is much deeper and more intricate than it would seem on the surface level. Even though Coatney touts his bread as the simplest “ingredient” on any given dinner table, he contrasts his bread-making style to brewing beer for mass production.

“The ingredients in industrialized bread are meant to be neutral. It’s just like the macro beers, Bud Light and Miller Light. Drink them as cold as possible so you don’t taste it,” said Coatney. “Our bread is an ingredient in a meal.”

Coatney has so much knowledge to offer. He talks of local grain economies and mills. He speaks of customers who claim to eat his bread despite being celiac or gluten sensitive. It is curious that this insanely interesting topic and educational niche is all for a loaf of bread.

Even so, viewers who see product photos and customers’ raving reviews will quickly understand that Coatney’s product is something completely different than what they currently have in their cupboards. Whether it’s developing experimental yeast or creating a flavor awakening for the Monmouth County bread supply, Coatney and the Benchmark Breads team seem to be the clear choice for getting the job done.

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