Fort Lee native Christopher Holland grew up with so many Asian friends that Korean BBQ and Shabu Shabu shaped his palette as much as the influences of his Italian/Irish background. Holland developed a penchant for exotic Eastern flavors that prominently figure into his culinary artistry today. As Head Chef of Session Bistro, the year old boutique restaurant in Maywood adjacent to the Maywood Train Station Museum, Holland imbues nearly every dish with subtle and sometimes more pronounced nods to the flavors of his youth. The son of a chef who insisted Holland “at least take a bite” of new preparations, Holland embraced his father’s admonitions and later used this openness to new taste experiences to shape his palette and orientation in the service of combining flavors, styles and textures. While Holland’s parents divorced when he was young, he and his father bonded over food and remain close. (Holland’s father Thomas, affectionately known as Pops, retired his toque after decades in the restaurant business, but still assists on occasion at Session.)
Did young Holland follow in his father’s footsteps? Not immediately. He held a few office stints for years while experimenting in his kitchen, developing a passion for cooking that was to become all-encompassing. He walked into Chakra Restaurant in Paramus one night and asked Chef Thomas Ciszak to let him work there for an evening, without pay, and was offered a job before the end of the night. While Holland stayed for four months, he proved to himself that his bliss required a professional culinary path.
Enter Joe Troy, Hawaiian native and Philippine transplant, who moved several years earlier to New York City with two suitcases, $1,200 in his pocket and dreams of owning a restaurant. After years of working in HR and other office jobs, often two at a time, Joe opened a Rockland county restaurant, found Holland through an advertisement and hired him as chef. Setting his sights on Bergen, Troy fell in love with the Maywood property where Session Bistro is located and opened in April 2011, with another chef at the helm. Soon after, Troy asked Holland to take over the kitchen at Session Bistro; Troy later closed the Rockland restaurant. Troy and Holland, both in their early 30s, formed a partnership and Holland developed an ambitious menu that is self-described as Eclectic Fusion. It’s an apt description, too. It’s just that there’s so much more to it and requires what may read like a billet-doux. Forgive me, but it’s rare that I find a place as original, charming and delightful to the palette as Session Bistro.
Before I get into the food, a bit on the restaurant’s ambience. It’s an intimate space that holds about 45 guests. It was recently renovated to remove the sushi bar and drab interior left over by its previous tenants, which were deli owners. With a warm red jewel tone accent wall bedecked with a few dozen clocks (from Holland’s personal collection) and plenty of windows, minimal decor, much of the restaurant’s charm comes from the warmth of Troy and the wait staff. A new partner, Louie Marquez, adds a welcome feminine touch to the restaurant’s outside seating area with a trickling water fall and potted herbs. Add to the mix live music (when I visited, a jazz duet played standards and abstract melodies) and you have a hip vibe. Combine that with Holland’s craftsmanship, and you really get something to swoon over.
Holland approaches cuisine with equal parts whimsy and thoughtfulness. Patrons are greeted with a small dipping plate of an almost frothy puree of roasted garlic, shallot and beans, served with grilled pita slices. The appetizers are classified as Tapas and designed to be suitable as small plates, palette teasers which could easily be enjoyed in place of entrees. All are reasonably priced, starting at $8.95.
Bangkok Mussels ($8.95) are plump, juicy and briny in a delicate green curry beurre blanc, served alongside deep fried pita planks which act as tasty sauce-soaking vehicles. Chorizo Scampi ($11.95) are beautifully cooked jumbo shrimp in a garlic and chorizo beurre blanc with chorizo cracklings strewn about, rendered down bits we fought over.
Pulled Pork Tempura (10.95) is as delicate as it is decadent, a pillow of crispy, airy beer batter encasing tender, richly flavored pork. Bahn Mi style coleslaw lends brightness and acidity while Holland’s homemade bacon BBQ sauce brings a sweet, sultry warmth to a perfect dish. Holland’s bacon BBQ sauce should be bottled and sold as a accent sauce, not something you’d want to slather on chicken or ribs, but carefully add to protein you want to elevate to a sweet, tangy, elegant level. This sensuous sauce starts with five pounds of bacon, which is rendered down for the base of the sauce. I could go on about the sauce, but you get the picture. Serious flavors and plenty of restraint make Holland’s sauces and dishes work so well. Spices peek and beckon, but never over-power.
Holland’s M.L.T. appetizer ($8.95) is a collection of two inch grilled slices of pita spread with aioli, baby arugula, tomato and house smoked lamb bacon. The “M” in M.L.T. is for Mutton. This is classic Holland at work, or at play. The traditional BLT elevated to a new level that is as playful as it is delicate and elegant. On top of the tiny sandwiches is a tidy pile of salad. On top of the salad is an addictive pile of fries, little shoe strings of salty goodness. (Holland said they are an ode to his Greek/Jewish step-grandmother whose latkes he helped make at family gatherings.)
Other appetizers include Shrimp With Black Bean Sauce ($11.95), shrimp skewers wrapped in crispy pork skin served with Chinese style fermented black bean sauce, Korean Steak Tacos (10.95), Fresh Fish & Chips ($9.95) made with catch of the day, beer battered and served with house cut fries and Holland’s rendition of Tartar sauce. Chicken Wings ($8.95), Rico’s Eggplant Quesadilla ($8.95) with Holland’s fresh Pico di Galio and Potato Chip/Basil Pesto imbued Mozzarella Spring Rolls ($8.95) add more dimension to this whimsical side of the menu.
Love for the Mother Sauces motivate and inspire Holland’s repertoire. Entrees, like appetizers, have well-paired sauces that compliment. Nearly half the patrons at nearby tables had ordered lamb chops, and for good reason. Coriander Crusted Baby Lamb Chops ($21.95) are coated with fresh ground coriander and served with mashed potatoes and curried carrot puree. The coriander gently perfumes the tender lamb and the sweet, silken carrot puree and rich, creamy potatoes are the perfect sidekicks. This dish is a winner.
Ancho New York Strip ($21.95) is 10 ounces of dry aged Angus NY Strip with a gentle ancho chili rub, grilled, topped with herb butter. Holland grills Shitake mushrooms and nestles them on top of the strip while it rests, creating a lovely umami and mélange of flavors. All of this on a cloud of those yummy mashed potatoes. Very satisfying indeed. (For $4.95, shrimp can be added to this manly plate.)
A delicate flounder dish is named Malgorzata for Holland’s fiancée. A lushly flavored yet light beurre blanc, intensified with miso, has refined touch. Sautéed spinach and more of that addictive mashed anchor the plate. Sweet and sour mango dance in Malaysian Flirtation ($19.95) , a sauté of chicken and shrimp. Not Yo Mama’s Chicken Parm (sic, $18.95) is deconstructed chicken parmagiana using slow poached breast, a sauces of sun dried tomato, roasted garlic and basil and a tomato butter sauce and ricotta cream. It worked well for my companion, who enjoyed varying the amount of either sauce, chicken or ricotta on his fork.
Shrimp and Grits ($20.95) is a homey, soulful dish that deeply satisfies. Holland sautés jumbo shrimp and finishes them with a chorizo cream sauce. Served with NJ corn he grates and cooks down with cream to resemble a lush polenta, this is a smooth, buttery, rich foundation to enjoy the well-seasoned shrimp against.
A palate cleansing plate of salted, firm, sweet watermelon slices is welcome after entree plates are removed. Dessert is a choice of house made ice cream. We had chocolate almond, full of chocolate richness, and a more subtly flavored toffee cashew. Both were served with fried fruit turnovers.
Session Bistro belongs under the category of Do Not Miss.
Located at 245 Maywood Avenue, Session Bistro, www.sessionbistro.com, is adjacent to the Maywood Train Station Museum. Hours will increase in September when the restaurant adds lunch service and Sunday brunch. Lunch will be served from 11:00AM-2:00PM Monday to Friday and Sunday brunch will be offered from 10:30AM-2:30PM. In the meantime, dinner service is Tuesday to Saturday from 5:00-10:00PM. Live music is offered Friday and Saturday evenings after 7:30. The restaurant has 45 seats and is available for private rentals. 201-880-7810
Heidi Raker Goldstein is our Bergen county regional editor. A locavore, cooking enthusiast, publicist and mother of three junior gourmands, Heidi is equally comfy in greasy spoons and high-end restaurants. When not visiting local farmers markets and farm stands in Bergen and Rockland counties, this New England native, former Manhattanite and Bergen county resident is busy running her PR and green marketing agency, Raker Goldstein & Co., buying food, planning menus, cooking food, writing about food or simply eating. To reach Heidi, email her at [email protected].
A transformation has taken place at the Applebee’s at 1057 Route 46 East. Step inside this Parsippany restaurant and you’ll spot it immediately: huge floor-to-ceiling photo collages featuring local high school students and other stars from the community are the centerpiece of a fully remodeled interior.
Melissa d’Arabian’s new book was sent to me this week for a quick review and yey!! GIVEAWAY!! We have two books to give away and a taste tested recipe below.



I started by sautéing some onions and garlic in a little olive oil. I followed up by adding some shredded rotisserie chicken, diced chilies, salsa, and 2 different types of chili powder. I came very close to using my basic pantry chili powder, but ended up buying the chipotle chili powder suggested by the recipe’s creator. If you reproduce this recipe at home, I would definitely suggest that you spring for the chipotle chili powder. Live dangerously! The chipotle gives this dish smokiness and complexity, as well as a fiery kick to your taste buds.
To assemble the dish, the recipe called for corn tortillas to be dipped in enchilada sauce before assembling the enchiladas. Do not make my rookie mistake by rushing the soaking process-let those tortillas soak and bathe in the sauce for a little while. They will be a lot more pliable and easy to fill with the sautéed chicken mixture.
Mom Made Chipotle Chicken Enchiladas (Serves 4-6)
Cape May Craft Beer & Crab Fest, Saturday, August 11th from 11am-8pm. Held at the beautiful grounds of the Emlen Physick Estate, 1048 Washington St., Cape May, an all-day festival featuring local and regional craft beers to wash down favorite summer picnic foods. Click for more details.
Silverton Farms Screening Food Inc., Friday, August 10th at 8pm. The owners of Silverton Farms in Toms River are hosting the first-ever movie night outside at the farm. They will be screening Food, Inc., a documentary about corporate food production in the U.S. The event is free and kids are welcome. You are encouraged to bring blankets and/or chairs to sit on. There will be a concession stand with organic popcorn and other goodies, but guests are also welcome to bring their own snacks if desired. There is no RSVP required, but if you are planning to go, you can stop by the farm or call ahead to let them know: 732-244-2621.
hMag Lackawanna Music Festival, Saturday, August 18th. Pier A in Hoboken. Sponsored by Ben & Jerry’s (we can only hope they bring ice cream). The event will be hosted by MTV’s Matt Pinfield and will feature the headliner band Tokyo Police Club. Other bands will include Vacationer, Shinobi Ninja, Body Language, Lights Resolve, We Barbarians, The Nightmare, River Band. Pilsener Haus will also be providing a Biergarten at the event as well. The music portion of the event is free but people are required to RSVP.
Shore Chef Crab Cake Cook-Off, Saturday & Sunday, August 18th & 19th from 12pm-5pm. Monmouth Park. Shore Chefs compete for the best crab cake award and the coveted People’s Choice Award. Taste fare from your favorite local restaurants. Crab cakes, fried catfish, and clam chowder bread bowls are just a few of the favorites.
Chili Cooks Against Cancer, Saturday, August 25th from 11am-6pm. West Windsor. The ICS Sanctioned contest includes three chili categories – Red Chili, Verde (green) Chili and Salsa ICS Sanctioned contest includes three chili categories – Red Chili, Verde (green) Chili and Salsa. Chili Lovers? Come out and taste Chili or volunteer to be a judge, either way you’ll have a wonderful time. Kids Activities and Live Entertainment as well as beer! Click for details.
Grape Stomping Festival, Sunday, August 26th from 12pm-5pm. Renault Winery in Egg Harbor City will host this fun event. Enjoy wonderful food including their “world famous sausage & pepeprs” and more, beer and wine, crafters, entertainment, activities for kids and of course grape stomping where you get to meet Lucy!
Great Tomato Tasting, Wednesday, August 29th from 3pm-dusk, Pittstown, NJ. This event includes the very popular tasting of over 60 heirloom and hybrid tomato varieties, chef demonstrations, guided educational wagon tours of the farm’s research plots, tastings of honey, basil, apples and peaches, professional advice offered by the Hunterdon County Board of Health Staff on stink bugs, mosquitoes and black flies – pesky insects near and dear to local residents, and “square foot” gardening demonstrations for those interested in small, productive gardens.
BBQ & Craft Beer Festival, Saturday & Sunday, September 1st & 2nd. Monmouth Park. Ribs, pulled pork, brisket – it’s all back and better than ever, served up by some of the Garden State’s best BBQ joints. In addition, cool off with a cold one in the beer garden.
Sickles on the Road: Discover the Best of Edible Princeton, Saturday, September 15th from 9am-6pm. Spoil yourself this fall and join Sickles On The Road for a day of culinary discovery in Princeton! Hosted by Kirsty Dougherty, On The Road Tour Director and Sickles’ Chef Carol Maxwell, this is an insider’s look at the burgeoning culinary scene of Princeton and a chance to try your hand at mozzarella cheese making! More info.
Atlantic City Seafood Festival, Saturday & Sunday, September 15th & 16th. A two day extravaganza of fun, food and entertainment celebrating the treasures of the Atlantic Ocean while highlighting our sea side city. The festival will offer event goers the opportunity to treat their taste buds to a large variety of dishes prepared by area restaurants and culinary personalities. Click for more details.
Can’t-miss fried choices ($6) are the Arancini – fried risotto balls filled with peas and Mozzarella and the Carciofo – fried artichoke hearts served with tangy lemon aioli. The Arancini are ultra-crunchy on the outside with gooey, creamy risotto on the inside – a truly delectable treat.
I have wanted to have dinner at Renault Winery Resort and Golf in Egg Harbor City for some time now and finally found the perfect time. The resort hosts many wonderful culinary events on their expansive grounds that include their own vineyards. Renault has wine tastings with food pairings, farm to table feasts, wine tours and wine making and many other delicious happenings throughout the year.
The men stayed untill the end of the event as the owners of their respective mean machines pulled away in all their glory, some even “burning rubber” as they exited the property. I in the meantime had made my way inside the resort to Joseph’s Restaurant to select a table by the window. My husband eventually joined me sans my son and his pal (who both decided to skip dinner, kids!) and we began the part of the days’ event at Renault that I most looked forward to enjoying.
We both chose a salad to start as our primi, Burrata Mozarella with vine ripe tomatoes and twelve year old Balsamic vinegar and fresh basil for me and romaine hearts with creamy parmesan, croutons and finished with shards of parmesan and freshly ground black pepper for him. What’s not to like? All fresh and seasoned perfectly. I decided I also wanted a Flatbread, which was crisp and topped with some of my favorite bites, Kalamata Olives with Fresh Mozzarella and Roasted Tomatoes and Arugula before our main course.
Tortelloni with Cheese with Imported Prosciutto in a Blush Sauce and my husband’s selection of Double Cut Pork Chops with Saba (aged vinegar made from red wine), Cippolini Onions, Herbs, Potatoes Gratin and fresh Carrots. The double cut pork chops were juicy and tender, which is hard to find and much to my husband’s delight with delicate potatoes and tender onions. My tortelloni were cooked just right, (a major pet peeve with me) and well crafted with a creamy cheese center. I loved the blush sauce and the imported Proscuitto gave the dish a nice smokey undertone.

Supporting small business is something I strive to do and family-owned restaurants are a category I hold dear. I visited Bella Campania recently in nearby Hillsdale after an absence of a few years. I was pleasantly reminded of what I enjoyed on my earlier visits with husband and kids in tow. While the kitchen was slammed (7PM on a summer Thursday evening) and nearly every table occupied, 30 year old Chef Chris Tarta was keenly focused on not only take out, but warmly greeting customers as they entered and exited while manning the kitchen nearly solo. Tarta is a determined guy, buying Bella Campana at the ripe age of 23 when then-owners planned to sell the restaurant and he was a sous chef.
Our server Joe recommended Fried Calamari ($10) in the Portugese style (as opposed to traditional, Buffalo or Balsamic varieties). This was a winner. The crispy calamari had a fresh, briny flavor and delicate texture underneath a bit of crunch left over by flash frying. Tarta tossed it with a garlicky lemon butter mixture of julienned smoked and sweet peppers and chopped parsley for a flavor-packed mouthful. This was everyone’s hands-down favorite. From texture, taste and addictive quality, Fried Calamari Portugese is a clear winner.
Salads and soups are prepared lovingly and have a homey goodness to them. My daughter loved the Pasta Fagioli ($5) with its simple, honest flavors of tomatoes, garlic and beans.
Hunger relief hit a jackpot in Atlantic City last weekend with a $10,000 donation during the Atlantic City Food and Wine Festival.
They presented summer pudding with roasted stone fruit tarts at Saturday night’s Sweet & Stylish fashion show, where Southern Branch Executive Director Margie Barham and Mr. Uniacke accepted the $10,000 check from Joseph Giunta, vice president of non-gaming operations for Caesars Entertainment and Katie Dougherty, director of public relations for Caesars Entertainment in Atlantic City.
If you find yourself on the way to Cape May, a stop at Jessie Creek Winery is a must!
Right now Jessie Creek offers 5 wines, two whites and three reds. I am glad to see that this new winery decided to go for quality over quantity. Morrison and Reale have worked closely with several established wine makers in New Jersey to carefully craft their first vintage. And it shows.
The winery is located on the grounds of The Inn at Jessie Creek, an elegant bed and breakfast in a beautifully renovated 1846 farmhouse. Choose from 4 large suites all with private baths, TV, and high speed internet. Just imagine enjoying an evening bonfire with a glass of wine or sunrise over the vineyard.
Peach Party, Saturday, August 4th from 11am-2pm. Collingswood Community Center. Join the Food Bank of South Jersey for the debut of our first-ever food-rescue product, Just Peachy Salsa! You’ll get to taste it, buy it, and hear how we did it. This salsa comes with chunks of real Jersey peaches and packs a little heat. During the event, local chefs will also be serving up tastings that showcase the Jersey peach. Then you be the judge and cast your vote for the best recipe on your way out! More info.
An Evening in Our South Jersey Garden, Culinary Workshop, Tuesday, August 7th from 6pm-9pm. Culinary Workshops Offer Taste of Global Cuisine at Atlantic Cape. Learn how to get the most out of your farmers market or garden co-op. Receive tips on preparing locally grown eggplant, zucchini and tomatoes, and end the night by making strawberry-rhubarb pies and blueberry desserts. To register, call 609-343-4829 or visit 




