Page 93 ⋆ Jersey Bites

Lou Cooperhouse of Rutgers Food Innovation Center Talks All Things Food

JerseyBites

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March 14, 2016

Lou Cooperhouse of Rutgers Food Innovation Center Talks All Things Food

PRESS RELEASE

Holmdel, NJ — Looking to launch a food-based product or business? Want to know how New Jersey is shaping food innovation? Then join Lou Cooperhouse, director of the Rutgers Food Innovation Center, for “The Business of Food,” a NJ Strategic Design and Tech Meetup hosted at Bell Works in Holmdel on Wednesday, March 16, from noon to 2 p.m. This will be a lunch meeting to talk all things food and business.

On the menu:

How to build your own food startup
Insights in food innovation happening in the Garden State
The changing restaurant culture in New Jersey
New Jersey’s food leaders
Corporate food’s role in New Jersey’s future

The Rutgers Food Innovation Center (FIC), a business incubation and economic development accelerator program, is as unique as the food that comes out of it. Cooperhouse and his staff have worked with 100 startups as well as domestic and international food companies.

In the first half of the 20th Century, the Garden State was a powerhouse in food innovation. Campbell’s, based in Camden, created its iconic tomato soup using the famous Jersey tomato. A farm near Bridgeton pioneered the first vegetable refrigerator techniques and Welch’s Grape Juice was developed in Vineland in 1869, using a technique to preserve the juice without fermenting it. New Jersey continues to lead the way in food innovation with help from the FIC.

The FIC provides business and technology expertise to startups as well as established food companies in the mid-Atlantic region. The team at the center provides assistance creating marketing strategies, product and process development, training and education, and commercialization and manufacturing.

The FIC has served over 1,500 clients since its formation in 2001 and has been named “Incubator of the Year” by the National Business Incubation Association (NBIA) and an “Agricultural Innovation Center Demonstration Program” by the USDA.

The future of food innovation and startups remains bright for the Garden State, and Cooperhouse will discuss where it’s going and how the changing culture will aid this food revolution at the NJ Strategic Tech and Design Meetup at Bell Works. Whether you manage a startup, a restaurant or a corporation, if your product is food, this Meetup is for you. Bring your own lunch or buy something from the cafe and to talk with Lou about his experience helping businesses succeed in the world of food and food services.

To register for the Meetup, visit www.meetup.com/NJ-Strategic-Design-Tech/events/.

LANGOSTA_LOBSTER SLIDERS_MARC STEINER — Langosta lobster sliders, Marc Steiner

Keyport’s Broad Street Diner, Revisited

Michael Gabriele

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March 13, 2016

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Last May, I wrote an article about Keyport’s Broad Street Diner, just four months after the diner opened. By December, it had been recognized by The Star-Ledger and NJ.com as New Jersey’s best diner, for “its winning combination of great food, friendly service and timeless atmosphere.”

I revisited the place for brunch in February—a bright, balmy mid-winter morning—and the Broad Street Diner is better than ever, with owners Nick and Maria Kallas still beaming with joy from their well-deserved recognition. And yes, ever since being honored as being “number one,” the joint has been jumping. But it still retains its convivial, neighborhood character.

The Broad Street Diner continues to be a warm, welcoming establishment, with delicious, outta-sight eats, like the spectacular chocolate babka French toast, topped with fresh kiwi slices, strawberries and blueberries, which I gleefully scarfed up during my revisit. I mean, c’mon now—this ain’t food; it’s a work of art, a masterpiece.

The circa-1952, Jerry O’Mahony-built diner has been transformed into a magical place for the Keyport faithful and hungry Garden State pilgrims alike. This is a vintage, stainless steel diner that captures golden-age charm with a modern vibe. Maria and Nick: keep on doing what you’re doing and keep on sharing the love.

By the way, the Broad Street Diner’s recipe for its tempting Jersey Boy Breakfast Club Sandwich, with Taylor ham, cheese, lettuce and tomato, and fried eggs, is featured in the forthcoming Jersey Shore Cookbook, out April 12 and written by Jersey Bites founder Deborah Smith. Oh yeah…we know what’s good!

Broad Street Diner
83 Broad Street
Keyport
732-497-0808

House of ‘Que in Hoboken

Hudson County

Dina Deleasa-Gonsar

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March 9, 2016

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One of the newer establishments to make Sinatra Drive in Hoboken its home is House of ‘Que. They have legendary pitmaster, Mike Rodriguez, originally from Salt Lick BBQ in Austin,Texas, who oversees the menus and the smokers. This fact alone sets the tone for a great BBQ experience.

As you walk in you instantly succumb to the laid-back, fun-loving feel of the picnic-style tables and the cafeteria-type setting. There is a great bar with a ton of TVs: clearly they are gearing up for some serious sports viewing. The first order of business was deciding on what cocktail would go best with the inevitable onslaught of meat. I feel like I have to go back just to check out more of the cocktails! (The Border Buck and the Apple Jack iced tea are high on my list.) My favorite of the night was the Driftwood Sunset Punch, which included house made lemonade and peach puree.

When our food came out, we were graciously presented with the Pitmaster’s Pick. This consisted of sausage, brisket, chicken, and ribs. Being presented with such a gorgeous tray of BBQ is the stuff dreams are made of. The standouts on this plate were the flavorful sausages and the fall of the bone ribs. The ribs were juicy with good bark on them. The brisket was more of a lean cut, so ask for fatty if that’s your thing! The chicken was well seasoned.

As exciting as the meats alone can be, one can never pass up the side dishes. There are plenty to choose from but don’t miss the brisket chili and the cornbread pudding. Together! The brisket chili is tender and spicy, the cornbread pudding is sweet and creamy—they make the perfect pair. Also not to be missed are the collard greens. They melt in your mouth and you might think you are eating pieces of a smoky butter. (If only it were OK to eat a stick of butter, right?) It will be tough, but make sure you save room for the peach cobbler (a la mode of course)!

House of ‘Que doesn’t stop at the food—it also offers up a variety of entertainment. Live bands perform weekly and there’s a “Dueling Pianos” show every Saturday night. This is definitely the place to bring a group of friends or family. House of ‘Que left me excited for summer and the prospect of sitting at one of the bars with the garage doors up…wearing my cowboy boots as I sip on a Driftwood Sunset Punch, while eating ribs and cornbread pudding, and taking in the skyline.

House of ‘Que
340 Sinatra Drive
Hoboken
201-706-8755

Wine Pairings from Salt Creek Grille – Princeton

JerseyBites

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March 8, 2016

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Wine Pairings from Salt Creek Grille – Princeton

Flowers, More Flowers and Food at the Philadelphia Flower Show

Events

Beth

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March 7, 2016

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Flowers, More Flowers and Food at the Philadelphia Flower Show

If you’re looking for an excursion to brush away the winter doldrums, look westward to Philadelphia and the annual Philadelphia Flower Show. This year’s show marks—and celebrates—the 100th year of America’s National Parks, and is a partnership with the National Park Service.[gdlr_space height=”20px”]

Food offerings will include healthy munchies, themed diners, coffee, candy and ice cream shops, as well as the PHS Pop Up Beer Garden located at Base Camp in the Grand Hall. A percentage of proceeds from food and beverage sales will benefit Philadelphia Horticultural Society programs, including City Harvest. The Trail Mix Bar, near the exhibit hall entrance, gives visitors a chance to make their own selection of healthy treats, including nuts, raisins, cranberries, chocolate and granola, before they begin their journey. The Smokey Mountain Café offers free-range bison sloppy joe sandwiches and corn on the cob. The Declaration of Cheesesteaks offers The Franklin, a new twist on the classic cheesesteak. Death Valley Chicken Strip serves up hearty wings and turkey legs with a deathly delicious dessert, death by chocolate. Glacier Trading Post is a great option for a sweet snack.[gdlr_space height=”20px”]

Other dining options include the Denali Café, Rita’s (Water Ice) Ranger Shack, and Glamping with Stella Artois.[gdlr_space height=”20px”]

A feast for the eyes and the palate awaits! The show runs through Sunday, March 13, 2016.[gdlr_space height=”20px”]

Irish Pubs at the Jersey Shore

Melissa Beveridge

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March 6, 2016

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This St. Patrick’s Day, the Jersey Shore is the place to be. There’s no better place to celebrate the Irish than at some of our favorite Irish pubs, where we’re greeted with great music, a cold beer and a hot plate of bangers and mash. At these pubs, we get to feel Irish, too, if only for dinner.

new jersey irish pub — Photo courtesy of the Anglesea Pub

The Anglesea Pub
116 W. 1st Avenue, North Wildwood
609-729-1133
Recently named one of the best pubs in the Garden State by the list-loving Buzzfeed, The Anglesea Pub in North Wildwood has been serving cold beer since 1916. Hailing from Ireland, General Manager Sean McMullan brings authentic Irish culture including traditional Irish specialties and a friendly vibe to the New Jersey Irish pub scene. Every year on St. Patrick’s Day and during the Irish Festival, McMullan even brings in Irish band Patsy Bradley, from his hometown in Ireland. Talk about authentic.

Claddagh
97 Bay Avenue, Highlands
732-291-0099
Set in Highlands, one of the Jersey Shore’s small beach towns, is Claddagh, an Irish pub with all the fixings. This includes 50 beers on tap ranging from Irish and Scottish ales, Belgian Whites, and stouts. Enjoy drink specials every day of the week while digging into a menu that has everything from your traditional fish ‘n chips to the corned beef stuffed into an egg roll. Just like its namesake, our Irish beer and food-loving heart is held right at the Claddagh.

New Jersey Irish pubs — Photo courtesy of the Dublin House

The Dublin House
30 Monmouth Street, Red Bank
732-747-6699
If you’ve ever been to Red Bank, chances are you’ve either walked past the Monmouth Street house with roots that date back to 1840, or you may have stepped inside and been transported back to a time when the beers were flowing, the music was loud (and good), and strangers became your friends. Not to be outdone by the alcohol, The Dublin House is also known for delicious Irish dishes including its Dublin House Bangers & Mash.

Kelly’s Tavern
43 NJ-35, Neptune City
732-775-9517
Those who know Reubens, also happen to know Kelly’s Tavern, an Irish pub opened by Ed and Mabel Kelly in 1949. Sit inside in the cavernous bar while you dig into the extra large Reuben, a plate that may leave you catatonic. Or enjoy the outdoors under the heated outdoor spaces while you watch some rugby. Either way, it’s a tradition.

Johnny Mac House of Spirits
208 Main Street, Asbury Park
732-776-6666
When you find yourself in front of Johnny Mac House of Spirits, aka Johnny Mac’s, a self-proclaimed eccentric watering hole covered in outlandishly hysterical quotes, step inside. The Irish hospitality runs big here as every beer you drink comes with a free, freshly made, individual pizza (it’s where Irish and Italian converge). Play some skeeball while you wait or enjoy the outdoor bar (with ping-pong tables!).

Maloney’s Bar & Grill
119 Main Street, Matawan
732-583-4040
Nothing says “Irish pub in New Jersey” quite like more than 125 taps that offer everything from ultra-fresh local beers to eclectic imports, and tried-and-true classics, to a full-fledged Scotch list. Maloney’s Bar & Grill has become a destination for Irish foodies and beer connoisseurs alike, and with good reason. Just try out the turkey Reuben that comes with tater tots and a vat of cheese.

Murphy’s Tavern
17 Ward Lane, Rumson
732-842-1600
No Irish pub list is complete without a mention of Murphy’s Tavern in Rumson. A tradition since Prohibition, Murphy’s was established in 1856 as a speakeasy and despite the laws eventually being lifted, still offers the same vibe it once did when patrons would have been hiding in the back.

Craft Beer in New Jersey Faces a Big-Beer Challenge

Peter Culos

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March 2, 2016

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Craft Beer in New Jersey Faces a Big-Beer Challenge

I usually reserve this space to talk about the best and brightest on the craft beer scene in the Garden State, but sometimes we have to put that aside for a minute and talk about the “B” word.

Business.

Believe me, I’d rather be unwinding with a fresh, local pint. But before I can really relax and enjoy that beer, there’s a 500-pound gorilla in the room, sporting a tie and an MBA. I just have to talk about it.

If you’re into craft beer at all there’s no way you’ve missed this. AB Inbev introduced an incentive plan that will award annual reimbursements for distributors whose sales are at least 98% AB Inbev products. Those reimbursements could be big. Like a million big. Before we look at what that means to the little guy in Jersey, let’s have a little background.

In New Jersey, there’s no one better to consult for any story about the craft beer business than Gene Muller of Flying Fish Brewing. His brewery first took flight in the mid 1990s and he’s no stranger to the state house in Trenton. Muller is a big reason you can enjoy a pint or two at your local brewery, but that’s a different story. He told me that the seeds of this new AB Inbev incentive plan are rooted in the late 90s, when the company rolled out its 100% Share of Mind program. Back then, wholesalers got myriad perks if they carried only Anheuser-Busch products and were discouraged from handling smaller breweries. As we know now, the plan did nothing but draw a Justice Department investigation and participating distributors missed out on some very successful craft brands. Worse yet, they were stuck with an AB Inbev portfolio that was losing market share to the very brands they missed out on.

As craft beer has gained market share, the pressure on AB to make it up to their wholesalers grew. Their strategy? Buy a bunch of craft brands that they can offer to them and throw some cash incentives into the deal. The question about distributors is, as Gene Muller noted, “Will they fall for it?”

The plot thickens here in New Jersey because the laws governing brewer-distributor relationships favor the distributor and make it almost impossible for a small brewer to break out of a contract—even if that distributor decides to stop actively selling and marketing their beer and leaves the brand to die on the vine. Brewers can break a contract for “good cause” but that’s only if the distributor does something illegal. Business reasons are not considered “good cause“ and the cost to fight it out in the courts could bankrupt them anyway. Evil, right? Well, not entirely.

Alva Mather, chairwoman of Griesling Law’s alcoholic beverage practice group — Alva Mather, chair of Griesling Law’s alcoholic beverage practice group

Since I can’t read legalese, I spoke to Alva Mather, chair of Griesling Law’s alcoholic beverage practice group (check out her impressive bio here). Mather explained that brewer-distributor law harkens back to the 70s and a time when there was only “big beer.” Back then, the distributor was the little guy. A distributor was more like a franchise and typically only carried one brand. If that brand pulled out, the distributor was doomed. No one saw a day when the brewer could be the little guy. So, laws were slanted to protect the vulnerable distributor.

I asked Mather if there was a chance the law could be changed. “Not likely,” she told me. Muller agreed that it could be “a bridge too far” for the Garden State Craft Brewers Guild to take on. They have limited time and resources. The only viable option for a brewery that falls into this trap is a “brand swap,” where distributors exchange brands in a non public agreement. It happens, but not very often.

All of this is why many of the new breweries in the state opt to self distribute. It’s a good way to start. However, Ryan Krill, of Cape May Brewing Company and the current Garden State Craft Brewers Guild president, told me that it can limit growth. “At a certain point, you become a distributor,” he said. What he means is that wholesalers provide services like line cleaning, sales and marketing, as well as the logistics of moving your beer to retail locations. He explained that that is a lot to take on for a growing brewery who’s also busy making beer. Even Muller quipped that these small breweries “can be like a new boat: they take up all your time and money.” Like it or not, distributors can be the next step to expanding your brewery.

Gary Monterosso, host of SNJ Today’s What’s on Tap,“ said, “As a person who takes pride in supporting the small, independent business owner, regardless of the industry, I question any sort of business practice that has the potential to limit the public’s right to complete accessibility.” I agree. Without a change in law, it pays for new brewers to be careful who they chose as a distributor. Mather feels that most of them are good but it’s up to the brewer to make sure their wholesaler knows their story and and is able to tell it. For a small brewer looking to take the next step and sign on with a wholesaler, their story is their most valuable asset.

As my dad used to say, “A word to the wise is sufficient.”

I know it’s a little confusing but if you’ve stayed with me this far, it’s time to relax and enjoy that beer. Which one you chose is up to you. Let’s hope it stays that way.

NOTE: While there isn’t likely to be a change in the distributor/brewer laws, the Garden State Craft Brewers Guild is pushing some new legislation that would be great for New Jersey beer. Here they are:

A-1949 / S-1334 – Permits breweries to sell beer at farm markets
A-1950 / S-1335 – Allows consumption of food at breweries
A-1951 / S-1337 – Restricted breweries can sell 1,000 barrels a year to in and out of state retailers.

Contact your state Senators and show your support here!

Atlantic City Restaurant Week 2016 Kicks Off March 6

Mary Wozniak

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March 1, 2016

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Atlantic City Restaurant Week 2016 Kicks Off March 6

Note: Jersey Bites was invited to visit Atlantic City Restaurant Week and our writer received complimentary samples.

Celebrity chefs, noodle bars, classic American steakhouses. Atlantic City Restaurant Week 2016 is the perfect opportunity to explore the city’s diverse dining scene. From Sunday, March 6, through Saturday, March 12, more than 65 casino and local restaurants will feature three-course prix fixe dinner at $33.16 and lunch for $15.16 (plus tax, beverage and gratuity).

Jersey Bites was invited to a preview event at the Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa, where a sampling of participating restaurants showcased tasty bites ranging from Indonesian veggie lumpia with smoked duck (the Borgata) to chicken seekh kebab (Nizam’s II in Galloway Township).

Lillie’s Asian Cuisine at the Golden Nugget offered a sweet open-faced wonton with lemon mascarpone, just a taste of a Pan-Asian menu that includes Lillie’s California roll and Pad Thai shrimp. Executive Chef Brian Tsui suggested Lillie’s sushi and sashimi menu and noodle bar.

Of course, there is no shortage of celebrity chefs in AC. At Guy Fieri’s Chophouse (Bally’s Atlantic City), the Food Network star’s Vegas fries and donkey sauce share the menu with local Jersey Shore clams casino and Cape May fried flounder. Executive Chef Giancarlo Generosi prepared Fieri’s signature sashimi tacos, served with mango, jicama and wasabi crème in a fried wonton shell.

Guy Fieri's Chophouse, Mary Wozniak, Jersey Bites — Guy Fieri’s Chophouse

Fans of Hell’s Kitchen recognized Season 14 winner Meghan Gill, now head chef at Gordon Ramsay’s Pub and Grill at Caesar’s Atlantic City. Gill’s mini beef Wellingtons hinted at Ramsay’s British pub fare, with specialties like bangers and mash and sticky toffee pudding.

Restaurant Week features some intriguing non-casino choices as well. Try the truffled grissini or chittara al nero aglio olio (black spaghetti with bottarga, oil and garlic) at Luke Palladino’s Seasonal Italian Grill (199 New Road, Linwood), the goat cheese croquettes and udon mac and cheese at the Iron Room at the Atlantic City Bottle Company (648 N. Albany Ave., Atlantic City), or authentic Indian cuisine at Nizam’s II (224 E. White Horse Pike, Galloway Twp.) Enjoy some post-shopping fondue at the Melting Pot (Tanger Outlets at the Walk), with table-side appetizers and an entrée topped off with a indulgent chocolate fondue served with fruit, brownies, blondies and Rice Krispies treat dippers.

Proceeds from the preview event benefitted the Community FoodBank of New Jersey and the Academy of Culinary Arts at ACCC Student Scholarships.

Redux in Madison: Another Winner by Chef Rob Ubhaus

Veronique @ Food & Wine Chickie

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February 29, 2016

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Redux in Madison: Another Winner by Chef Rob Ubhaus

Redux, which opened in September 2015, is the newest venture from Chef Rob Ubhaus. After selling his popular restaurant, Resto and Rob’s Bistro, and taking a yearlong sabbatical, Chef Ubhaus, and his wife, Danielle, have opened a new BYO restaurant featuring new American cuisine in Madison at the delight of their loyal following.

Redux is located in the space that previously housed 3 Central most and more recently, Rose City Grill. There are three individual spaces within the already-popular neighborhood gem: the Market at Redux, a dining room, and the chef’s counter. The market is open daily and offers house-made charcuterie, local cheeses and to-go meals prepared by Chef Ubhaus. During a market visit, I purchased a comforting cassoulet with side duck leg confit, which fed two royally, and a delectable pâté that had me reminiscing of dining at Paris bistros. The dining room, which seats 32 guests, has a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere and a casual feel with water served in mason jars, menus affixed to clipboards, and stemless wine glasses. The chef’s counter seats 10 guests and offers diners the opportunity to interact with the chefs as they prepare their food.

The evening we visited Redux, my wine group was in tow: five couples, sitting at the chef’s counter. Chef Ubhaus presented menus and told us we could order from them or that he would send out every dish for us all to share. The choice was simple: send every dish please! This concept was revered by all in my party as it instantly made our evening interactive while also being tasty.

While I was concerned at first that the layout of the chef’s counter with seats lined in a long row may not be conducive to conversation between my dinner mates, Chef Ubhaus made it fun by encouraging us to stand, chat and pass dishes around.

Golden corvina with mushroom fennel rice

Delicata squash, pearl pasta, beets, Bucheron

To start, we shared grilled marinated olives, bistro fries with roasted garlic aioli, freshly-shucked oysters, grilled bacon, various charcuterie and cheeses from the Bites menu. None of these items cost more than $9 and all were fun, delicious and set the tone for the rest of the evening.

We then moved on to the Small Plates options: disco fries, Hudson Valley foie gras (pictured at top) and beet salad wrap. The disco fries were unlike any one can find in a Jersey diner. They were wedge fries, with veal “gravy” and topped with slabs of Saint Andre cheese. And they were to die for. The dish is a “must order” and I will return for it when I do not have to share with friends. Our group uncorked Late Harvest wines at the mention of foie gras and Chef Ubhaus, bless him, made us two orders, each simply decadent and perfectly seared. The beet salad took a fun and clever form of preparation in a wrap which made it simple to share with friends: spinach, beets, bleu cheese and pecans rolled in rice paper.

Of course, we could have made a meal of the Small Plates and Bites menu choices, but why do that when there was still so much wine to be consumed!? While we all enjoyed the plates we were served, three standouts were the expertly cooked rack of lamb, the pristine golden corvina fish over mushroom fennel rice and graced by a flavorful saffron coconut ginger nage, and a dish of delicata squash, pearl pasta, beets topped with the biggest slice of Bucheron cheese.

For dessert—yes, we shamelessly had dessert—I opted for another serving of the Brillat-Savarin, melty cheese I was unfamiliar with before this dinner, and my cohorts ordered the chocolate mousse and the made-to-order ice cream sandwiches.

Redux, only open a few months, has already garnered rave reviews from local press and from customers who thought, until now, that Chef Ubhaus could not top his food at Rob’s Bistro.

We will be back. Often. And hungry.

Redux
3 Central Avenue
Madison
973-845-6263

The Market at Redux
11 a.m. to 7 p.m., daily

The Restaurant
Monday 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.
Closed Tuesday
Wednesday and Thursday 5 p.m to 9 p.m.
Friday and Saturday 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Sunday 4:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.

Cheers,

Veronique

The Hibernia Diner in Rockaway

Michael Gabriele

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February 26, 2016

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In the wake of Winter Storm Jonas, surrounded by deep snowbanks, chilled to the bone by frosty winds, and shielding my eyes from the harsh, early afternoon sun glare, I ventured, unafraid, into the ancient, mystical land of Hibernia in search of a hearty meal to warm the cockles of my heart.

No, not the Emerald Isle (Hibernia is the Latin name for Ireland); I’m talking about the hinterlands of Morris County, in the township of Rockaway, along the Hibernia Brook and Green Pond Road, about a half-mile north of Exit 37 on westbound Route 80. I’m talking about having lunch at the Hibernia Diner.

Actually, New Jersey’s Hibernia—an unincorporated village in Rockaway Township—may not be all that ancient, but it does have an extensive 300-year history, according to ironminers.com. In the early 1700s there was a string of iron mines and a forge, known as the Hibernia Furnace, which “provided shot and ordnance for the Continental Army during the Revolutionary War.” Cool.

However, there’s nothing ancient about the Hibernia Diner. As a matter of fact, it is quite modern in its exterior design and colorful interior décor. Beginning on Sept. 1, 2014, the diner was stripped bare to its steel skeleton and completely rebuilt, reopening on April 1, 2015. The construction project is documented on a YouTube video. The “old” diner’s big green awning over the front entrance, arched windows, and white, exterior Mediterranean rocks all have been discarded in favor of attractive, three-tone, exterior brickwork, tall shaded windows, abstract horizontal and vertical stainless steel trim, and a dazzling orange Hibernia Diner sign, which trumpets its around the clock, 24-hour service.

Hibernia Diner, lentil soup, Jersey Bites, Michael Gabriele — My lunch began with a soup of the day, lentil. This was the best cup of lentil soup I’ve had in many a year: thick, flavorful, and savory. Just a guess, but maybe they used beef stock for the soup.

Moroccan chicken salad, Hibernia Diner, Jersey Bites, Michael Gabriele — My main course was one of the daily chef’s specials: Moroccan chicken salad. Outstanding! Two thumbs up! As I was walking into the place I spotted someone with this dish and knew it was what I wanted. It was deliciously well prepared with a decorative presentation. Mandarin orange wedges and half-cut cherry tomatoes lined the dish, and the pleasing colors popped.

A generous portion of thin, grilled chicken slices, expertly seasoned, were piled high on a bed of fresh spinach, goat cheese medallions, walnuts, dates, Kalamata olives, topped with a pomegranate vinaigrette dressing—a well-orchestrated symphony of hot and cold flavors and textures. Needless to say, and as my photos revealed, I enjoyed every bite. It was a sumptuous meal, for sure. Bravo. The coffee was excellent. I had two cups, but decided to skip dessert. The service was prompt, professional and friendly.

Other specials of the day included a brisket of beef platter, Yankee pot roast, beef goulash, a breaded chicken and eggplant hero sandwich on Ciabatta, a Texas chili cheddar burger, a brisket of beef sandwich, and a shrimp and avocado wrap. Besides lentil, the soups of the day included chorizo, corn and black bean, chicken pasta, onion, and matzo ball.

The diner’s eye-catching interior design featured clean lines, warm green/ochre earth tones and big windows that brightened the spacious dining area and ambience. This was a comfortable dining environment. Like many site-built diners, the Hibernia is a marriage of the restaurant/diner concept. Give the owners credit—while the focus is on booth and table service, they were wise enough to maintain a fair-sized counter area for customers on the go, as any honorable diner should. Very thoughtful. Thank you.

As I stood to photograph the room, one smiling chap called out for me to take his picture. “Why should I do that,” I asked, playing along. “Because I’m famous,” he said with a wink. That’s when his wife chimed in with a reality check: “Yeah, he’s famous, and he’s a legend in his own mind.” They said they were loyal patrons of the diner and were pleased with the new design. When it comes to diners, the locals usually know what’s up. They also create the cheerful vibe of the place.

What else do I know about “anything Hibernia” besides this gem of a Jersey diner? Well, not much I’m afraid, so I did some Googling. I learned that the name Hibernia was taken from ancient Greek geographical accounts. The Roman historian Tacitus, in his writings, makes a reference to the island Hibernia. The Ancient Order of Hibernians, America’s oldest Irish Catholic Fraternal Organization, was founded in the coal-mining region of Pennsylvania and New York City in May 1836.

My humble recommendation is that Hibernians and non-Hibernians alike, from hither and yonder, should flock to this neat outpost in Rockaway for an honest, tasty meal. Owners Sam and George Matthews, according to information posted on the diner’s website, have operated the Hibernia Diner for more than two decades. They are to be commended for creating a most impressive, modern diner in northern New Jersey. Can’t wait to see and taste what good eats the next 20 years will bring.

The Hibernia Diner
9 Green Pond Road
Rockaway
973-625-3255

All photos by Michael Gabriele.

Michael C. Gabriele is the author of The History of Diners in New Jersey, published by The History Press/Arcadia Publishing.

Aquila Pizza al Forno in Little Falls

Terry Krongold

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February 24, 2016

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You might say that Jerry Arcieri, the owner of Aquila Pizza al Forno in Little Falls, has an obsession with pizza. After 25 years in the photo industry, commuting in and out of NYC every day, Arcieri fulfilled his dream of opening a pizzeria. But he didn’t just wake up one day and say, “I’m gonna make pizzas!”

While working full time as a photo editor, Arcieri attended the Institute of Culinary Education on Sundays and two nights each week. He earned a culinary certificate and then did an externship at Amano Pizza in Ridgewood (one of a handful of pizzerias in the U.S. that’s certified by the Association of Neapolitan Pizzaiuoli in Naples). And while his stint at Amano gave him valuable insights learning from a master pizzaiolo, he really needed daily hands-on practice. So Arcieri did what any pizza-obsessed person might do: he built his own wood-burning pizza oven in his own Bergen County backyard. He developed his own dough formulation and then, to perfect his craft, he held pizza parties every weekend for a few lucky friends and neighbors.

In 2013, Arcieri started thinking about opening a pizzeria, and scouted several possible locations in North Jersey area. In addition, he made pilgrimages to several of the most well regarded pizzerias in the Tri-State area (among them, Santillo’s in Elizabeth, Frank Pepe in New Haven, and Jim Lahey’s Co in NYC).

Arcieri had visited Bivio in Little Falls, one of the area’s premier pizzerias several times and had admired the owner’s dedication to the time-honored craft of authentic Neapolitan pizza. In April 2015, he and Bivio’s owner (Tomasso Colao) reached an agreement for the sale of Bivio and after a few starts and stops, Arcieri took ownership in November.

Bivio was a much-lauded pizzeria in northern New Jersey (yours truly had the privilege of writing the first article about Bivio when they opened in 2011) so taking over such a venerated establishment took some “coraggio” on Arcieri’s part.

But Arcieri was a man with a mission, and with the support of his wife, Sofia, he launched Aquila in early December. I spent some time recently chatting with him about the challenges and surprises of running a restaurant.

The oven that was put in place for Bivio, by a Neapolitan master oven builder, is still in place. It has taken a bit of time for Arcieri to learn how to tame the 800° monster. (He also needed to tweak his dough recipe from his original backyard recipe, using only the famous Caputo 00 flour, rather than a mixture of regular flour and 00 flour.)

Thankfully, he was able to retain a lot of the Bivio team, so staff management has not been the challenge it could have been. And he’s lucky that the staff is excited about contributing ideas to Aquila’s menu. Whether it is thinking about flavors and combinations for the pizzas, or suggestions for a new appetizer, they are enthusiastic about their work at Aquila.

Arcieri knows a good thing when he sees it, so he kept the core of the Bivio menu, but is slowly adding to the appetizer and salad offerings. Right now, the cheesecake on the dessert menu is made by one the staff, but they will probably expand desserts in the future when the timing is right.

During a visit to Aquila the first week they opened, I sampled the Margherita pizza (a staple on any Neapolitan pizza list). The flavorful basil scattered across the crisp crust, topped with San Marzano tomatoes and house made mozzarella made a simple but delicious dinner.

And while Aquila’s regular pizza menu is small (five or six items), Arcieri also offers one or two specials each week. I asked him how he comes up with ideas for the specials. He said he starts with a base of white or red, then builds from there, always having a vegetarian and meat option. As I write this, the current specials are a Swiss chard, roasted garlic, Gruyere and ricotta pie (white/vegetarian); and San Marzano tomatoes, sausage, roasted fennel, mozzarella and Parmigiano cheeses (red/meat). You probably couldn’t go wrong with either.

You may be wondering about the restaurant name (I was). Many years ago, the building where Aquila is housed was home to the Eagle Hotel. In Italian, Aquila translates to eagle. Arcieri named his pizzeria after the hotel, which I think is fitting because it sounds like Aquila will be flying high for the next few years.

Aquila Pizza al Forno
7A Paterson Avenue
Little Falls
973-256-0050
Open Wednesday-Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m.
BYO

Photos are courtesy of Aquila Pizza al Forno.

Weehawken’s Molos: Extraordinary Seafood and Breathtaking Views

Marina Kennedy

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February 23, 2016

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Weehawken’s Molos: Extraordinary Seafood and Breathtaking Views

Note: Jersey Bites was invited to visit Molos and our writer received a complimentary meal.

Molos is a true gem of a restaurant. Situated right on the Hudson River in Weehawken, the floor-to-ceiling windows offer guests an unbelievable panoramic view of New York City. Serving lunch, dinner and weekend brunch, it is an exceptional destination for couples, friends’ outings, business gatherings and family celebrations. We visited early on a Sunday evening. The sun was setting on a clear night as the lights of Manhattan beamed across the river.

The Greek- and Mediterranean-inspired menu has something to please every taste. Meze, the freshest seafood, delicious meat dishes, sides and desserts are expertly prepared and paired perfectly with their fine beverage program that features signature cocktails and Greek wines. Plan to sit back and relax. Service is gracious and attentive. And the presentation of the menu items is as delightful as the surroundings.

Executive Chef Gregory Zapantis, Molos, Jersey Bites — Executive Chef Gregory Zapantis

We especially like that Molos keeps its seasonings simple yet creative, allowing the full nature of your food to shine through thanks to the talents of Executive Chef Gregory Zapantis. Zapantis was born on the Greek island of Kefalonia, where he forged his early culinary training. His style was developed by the values of a traditional fisherman’s family who respected the sea and all that it generously brought to their tables. Surrounded by the succulent flavors of charcoal grilled fish, and recipes handed down from generation to generation, he has mastered the most basic skills of treating seafood with herbs, spices and olive oil. Zapantis came to Molos in November 2014, following time spent in the kitchens of Estiatorio Milos, Trata, Kellari and Thalassa in New York City.

Before you choose your meal, take a few moments and view the fish selection. This impressive display of seafood is one of the centerpieces of the dining room. We started our culinary journey with some of the wonderful appetizers. The hummus is made daily, with just the right touch of seasoning. Tempting raw bar selections include a favorite of mine: moonstone oysters. You’ll want to order the traditional salad, which is highlighted with ripe tomatoes with a summery Jersey Fresh taste. The octopus is sushi grade, perfectly charred and served with eggplant puree and caramelized onion. We were introduced to the king prawn, a variety measuring nearly a foot, larger than any I had ever seen. Simply grilled, it is tender and delicious as you take it out of its shell.

For an entrée, the broiled black sea bass with a few herbs was the best we had ever tasted. If you prefer a meat dish, filet mignon, dry aged strip steak and lamb chops are also on the menu. Your server will be happy to discuss vegetarian and gluten free options as well. (Julio Paris, whose food and wine expertise helped us to make the best selections for our dinner, was our server.)

Dessert is a must. The Greek yogurt cheesecake, chocolate lava cake and other scrumptious choices allow you to sit back, and enjoy a cup of coffee or an aperitif, reflect on a fine meal and take in more of the spectacular view.

Molos also features a happy hour menu that includes reasonable pricing on beer, wine, signature cocktails, raw bar and meze.

While it’s safe to say that Molos offers the finest Mediterranean choices this side of the Hudson, New Yorkers would also benefit by making the short excursion to Weehawken. This upscale dining destination is elegant and impressive yet wholly approachable. One trip will never be enough.

Molos serves lunch, dinner, happy hour and weekend brunch, along with a second-floor dining space for special events. Free valet parking is offered as a courtesy to guests.

Molos
1 Pershing Road
Weehawken (convenient to the NY Waterway ferry)
201-223-1200

All photos are courtesy of Molos.

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