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Hot From The Kettle December 2011

The holidays are a busy time and the Montclair restaurant scene is as busy as ever!  Let’s begin with the latest news! The acclaimed Bloomfield Avenue restaurant, Blu, along with its sister property, Next Door, home of New Jersey’s best burger, will be closed for the next two months as chef/owner, Zod Arifai, the self-taught, “Wizard of Zod,” is focusing on re-opening daryl, the sleek restaurant located at The Heldrich Hotel in New Brunswick on December 11.

If you’re looking for a beercentric pub with healthy menu options, it’s time to visit  (or re-visit) The Office. This past June, Villa Enterprises, which operates George + Martha’s, the Black Horse Tavern, Black Horse Pub, and MacKenzie’s, among other eateries, acquired all of The Office locations from CB Holdings (Charlie Brown’s). The Office is reintroducing itself to the community with an updated interior and, most importantly, a revamped menu that’s fresher and lighter than most pubs. Want to know more about the new menu? Click here.

Last month saw the opening of two new Montclair eateries, True North Osteria and Acappello Ristorante.  Don’t let the name fool you, True North Osteria, is not an Italian restaurant serving Northern Italian fare.  True North, though it is an osteria – a small, informal restaurant – is the dream restaurant of husband and wife team Leah and Dave Moon.  True North is as artisanal as its gets; with the exception of hot sauce and mustard; the Moons are making and baking everything!  On my first visit to True North, Leah greeted me at the counter.  In the kitchen, Dave’s hands were immersed in a bowl of steamy water making fresh mozzarella, freshly baked loaves of bread were cooling on racks, and a roughly hewn chunk of Parmigianino Reggiano lay on a cutting board next to a few sprigs of fresh rosemary.  Quite the foodie scene! Visit Hot From The Kettle for more about True North Osteria.

Acappello is owned by the same family who has operated Cara Mia (Millburn), La Campagna (Morristown) and La Catena (Bridgewater).   Needless to say – they have plenty of restaurant experience. General manager, Ben Husenaj, and his two brothers, Sal and Robert, along with their two cousins, Naz Husenaj and Dardan Mati, have used their vision and experience to work an aesthetic wonder in the space formerly occupied by Sesame.

Nothing makes a certified curry junkie happier than learning about a new curry house!  Our friends at Brick Lane Curry House recently opened a new location in Ridgewood, NJ, located at 34 Franklin Ave.

Hot From The Kettle dined at Leone’s following its culinary makeover via celebrity chef, Gordon Ramsay.  Wondering how the food and atmosphere has changed? Read Elizabeth Starnes’ review here.

Melody Kettle, owner and executive editor of Hot From The Kettle LLC, currently resides in Montclair with her husband and two children. She grew up in Bergen county, and spent most of her time beside her grandmother in the kitchen, where she developed a love for cooking, food, and entertaining.  After receiving a B.A. in English from Rutgers University, Melody attended Rutgers Law School where she earned a Juris Doctorate. In 2010 Melody began blogging and “vlogging” (video blogging), and in March of 2011she launched Hot From The Kettle®, One Steamy Wine & Food Destination.  Hot From The Kettle has established itself as the definitive on-line source for restaurant news and reviews in Montclair and surrounding areas.  Hot From The Kettle also publishes content such as culinary demonstrations, recipes, and methods that have attracted national and international interest.

Hanukkah Recipes: Potato Latkes and Matzo Ball Soup

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Crispy potato pancakes prepared and photographed by food stylist Marcia Raker.

Potato Latkes recipe submitted by Heidi Raker Goldstein

Who doesn’t love a crispy potato latke, that fragrant, mouth-wateringly delicious fritter that is for many the symbol of Hanukkah, the Jewish holiday commemorating how one day of oil miraculously lasted eight days for the Macabbean rededication of the Second Temple in 200 B.C.

Growing up, there were many schools of thought on potato pancakes, as my New England family referred to them. We grated potatoes by hand (until processors came along), added eggs and flour, salt and pepper and fried them only in Mazola pure corn oil. They were served with freshly made apple sauce or sour cream. Period. Perfection.

When I moved to New York City after college, potato pancakes took on a new meaning. They were not just a cultural icon, they were a celebration any time of year and mingled sweet potato, zucchini, carrot or simply potato and onion, the latter I learned helped keep the potatoes from oxidizing and turning brown, in addition to adding a jolt of depth and flavor.

Latkes take on a very personal quality and how we marry the ingredient we make them with often says much about our ancestry, approach to cooking and relationship with the holidays. Some folks swear by the Manischewitz potato mix, others don’t get past the scorched freezer variety. But for me, I stay true to my somewhat updated potato pancake recipe, an amalgamation of my mother Marcia Raker and her aunt Frances Fine of West Hartford, CT. Enjoy!

Ingredients:

1 bag Idaho Potatoes, peeled and run through fine grater (on processor or by hand grating)
6 large fresh eggs, slightly beaten
1 medium Spanish onion, finely grated
1/2 cup AP flour
Mazola corn oil, enough to read a depth of 1″ in your fryer or dutch oven

Heat 1″ of corn oil in fryer or dutch oven to 350 degrees, about 10 minutes at medium high.

Set aside a jelly roll pan with a cookie rack set into it to work as your draining/drying surface.

Upon completion of grating potatoes, pour them into the center of a flour sack towel, saving the potato starch in the bottom of the bowl. Squeeze out all excess liquid from the potatoes through the bunched up towel. Add beaten eggs to the bowl with the starch along with grated onion. Season generously with kosher salt and black pepper. Return potatoes to bowl, mix well and taste for proper seasoning.

When oil is hot (test it by placing small amount of batter in to center; it should come to a rapid sizzle), prepare to begin frying. I like to use two table spoons to scoop, press together and shape each latke so sizes are uniform. Don’t overcrowd the pan and turn only once when edges are nicely browned. Remove from pan to cookie rack, sprinkle with more kosher salt and keep warm in 200 degree oven until ready to serve. Continue until all batter is used, being careful not to remove as much liquid from each latke before placing in the pan. Remove excess bits of stray potato that float in the oil between pan reloading.

Serve with sour cream, apple sauce or your favorite topping. These freeze nicely for a few months in a freezer bag.

Matzo Ball Soup submitted by Victoria Hurley-Schubert

Nothing says “feel better” like matzo ball soup, the Jewish penicillin, especially on a chilly winter day. At home with a cold, I was motivated to brew a batch for myself, since it requires minimal work and I had stock frozen in my freezer.

If you don’t have stock on hand, it’s very easy to make and once it’s on the stove, does the work itself.

For the stock, start with some poultry bones, I usually use chicken leg quarters or a small whole chicken. I also use the turkey carcass after a holiday dinner or the carcass of a store-bought rotisserie chicken.

Shove said parts into a pot; I usually use one with a strainer insert to make the end easier. Use three or four good size carrots, the more soup, the more carrots you need. Same goes for celery; but with celery I like to use the leafy tops, those little leaves pack a good flavor punch. I add one large onion, peeled and halved.

Add cold water to cover and leave at least a couple inches from the lip of the pot. Trust me on this, I always make a mess when the pot overflows when it comes to a boil. Using cold water allows the most flavor extraction from all ingredients.

When the pot begins to boil, add a tablespoon Kosher salt, its less salty tasting than table salt. You don’t add salt at the beginning because as it sits in the cold water it can damage some pots. Add a few grinds of pepper as well.

Let simmer on stove at least 90 minutes, the longer the better. Tip the lid for liquid reduction, the longer the liquid evaporates, the stronger the stock flavor will be.

When done simmering, remove the cooked vegetables and bones. If desired, strip meat off bones and put back in pot. If stock is a bit greasy for your liking, refrigerate and the fat will harden at the top and can be easily removed.

When you want soup, cut up some new carrots, celery and onions and toss in pot with stock. Turn on and when it warms, taste for seasoning. Add salt if necessary; if it seems too salty for your liking, no worries, the vegetables will help absorb it and the matzo balls will need some salt to balance their inherent blandness. Let simmer until ready to serve. Add parsley if desired.

To make matzo balls:

Fill large pot with a tight-fitting lid with water and put on stove to boil.

2 large eggs, slightly beaten
2 tablespoons of vegetable oil
2 tablespoons water or stock (cold)

Blend together with fork to mix. If you have dry chicken base, add a 1/2 teaspoon.

Add 1/2 cup matzo meal and a couple pinches of baking powder to egg-oil-water mix and stir to combine and put in fridge to chill. Omit baking powder for Passover.

When water boils, add copious amounts of kosher salt to help flavor matzo balls. Take matzo mixture out of refrigerator, wet hands with cold water and scoop a teaspoon of the mix into the palm of your hand and roll like a meatball to get a uniform round shape. A small cookie scoop works well for this. The balls will sink when they fall into the boiling water and then bob to the surface.

When all matzo balls are in the water, rinse hands and put lid on pot and set timer for 45 minutes. Then, walk away, forget about the stove. NO PEEKING! Do not lift the lid of the pot until five minutes after the timer beeps.

Fish out matzo balls with a slotted spoon.

Pair matzo balls with soup and some fine egg noodles, if desired, and enjoy!

Happy Hanukkah!

Buick Partners with Food & Wine Magazine for One Delicious Day

What might be a good way to sell cars and keep people entertained for three hours? How about partnering an automobile company up with a well known food and drink magazine, allowing them to showcase both of their strengths: beautiful cars and delicious items? Well, that is exactly what Buick and Food & Wine magazine did.

The automotive giant partnered with the popular magazine to offer guests an exclusive culinary event and to promote their new 2012 lineup. Guests were lucky enough to watch live cooking demonstrations, indulge in the finishing results, and test drive a few vehicles. Celebrity Chef Michael Psilakis was the headliner of the weekend, while Food & Wine’s Best New Chef 2007 Gavin Kaysen, Discovery’s Planet Green Network “Future Foods” Co-Host Chef Ben Roche, and wine expert Michael Green offered exceptional presentations and tasty take-aways.

The three hour event was seamlessly executed, with guests being placed into three small groups that traveled with a Buick representative to three “modules” and other areas. Before going with our groups however, we were delighted with a breakfast during registration and welcome speech.  Food & Wine magazines were generously placed on various shelves for taking. Chef Psilakis was also present during this time and I was quite startled, perhaps “star struck” by his presence. He politely took a picture with me and conversed with other people. It was great to see how he took time to appear for guests before his scheduled “debut.”

My first group’s module was the test drive. Here we were presented with information about the 2012 Buick lineup including the Regal, Lacrosse, and Enclave. Test driving was fun as we were able to hop into any car we liked and take it for a spin.

Module two was with Chef Kaysen, where he delighted us with some background on himself and experience in the industry. The dish he explained and prepared for us was a Maine Peekytoe Crab with orange & pepper gelee, shaved fennel and tangerine-vanilla vinaigrette. Wow, quite a title and quite a bite! The crab was light and fresh, while the gelee topping provided a nice richness to the plate.

Module three was definitely an experience. Pastry Chef Roche used liquid nitrogen to instantly make bacon, maple syrup and sage ice cream for us. He discussed how he uses the liquid nitrogen to make different types of ice cream since it allows for a quick freezing process and encouraged us to experiment with it at home! Obviously, with precautions taken, he explained how to “treat it like fire” and order some if we could. He then presented us with an outstanding  S’mores Bomb. Each little truffle-lookalike was encased in dark chocolate and filled with a liquid graham cracker puree. The one- biter was one to be remembered.

Wine tasting was next for us with Michael Green. He was a great entertainer and teacher! His humorous personality and vast knowledge of wine made for a whirlwind of thirty minutes. He educated guests with what he called a “Fast Track to Wine Expertise.” Case and point: Five things that contribute to wine tasting differently: 1. Grape 2. Region 3. Soil 4. Weather  5. Wine-making. Six S’s of wine tasting: 1. See 2. Swirl 3. Smell 4. Sip 5. Swish 6. Spit. These lessons, among others, were paired with two delicious wines to taste. One was a 2010 Rodney Strong Charlotte’s Home Sauvignon Blanc and the other was a 2009 M. Chapoutier Cotes-Du-Rhone Belleruche Rouge. Both drastically different yet definitely delicious!

Michael Psilakis’s demonstration finished the session for us. Not only an exceptional chef as I have come to know, but a wonderful presenter as well. His “plant a seed” themed intro was moving and poignant. He spoke of his childhood, upbringing, family relationships, career choices, almost in a story-like fashion. One of his main goals he mentioned was to show the culinary world that Greek food should be taken seriously. After eating, or rather devouring, the fried meatball he cooked for us, I see why he is so passionate about promoting Greek cuisine. A meatball you might consider Italian, I know. What you don’t know is how he plated the appetizer… In a sauce including simmered tomatoes, black and green olives, garlic confit, then drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. It was scrumptiously moist, attributable to the Wonder Bread in the mix, texturally sound, being both fried and braised, and well balanced. Not to mention, it was gone after 10 seconds! In the end though, he not only gave us kitchen tips and ideas, he encouraged us to follow what we love and realize the “power and beauty of food.”  And of course, how could I forget, thanks to Buick he signed and gave each one of us a copy of his cookbook, How to Roast a Lamb.

So all in all, it was a tremendous three hour adventure. Buick and Food & Wine came together with precision and really did a great job offering us culinary and automotive discoveries. In addition, for every guest, Buick will be making a donation to The FEED Foundation, in support of their efforts to create good products to help the world’s hungry. Quite a day if you ask me!

Gina Glazier is a born and raised Jersey Girl. She recently earned her Master’s degree in Reading & Literacy and currently teaches 5th grade. Gina lives with her husband Matt who is her number one fan and shares in her passion for the culinary arts, minus the cooking part! Her “culinary life” became a reality a few years back when she was chosen to be a guest of The Star Ledger’s Munchmobile. This ignited Gina’s desire to be around food and all its counterparts all the time, meaning restaurants, cookbooks, TV shows, cooking, etc. Gina says her “biggest and most monumental experience” was being a part of  The Star Ledger’s Pizza Patrol two years ago where she traveled the entire state, eating at 3, 4, sometimes 5 pizzerias a night for just about 6 months! You can check out her Hungry Teacher adventures, on her blog www.ahungryteacher.blogspot.com.

Foodie Things to Do This Weekend and Beyond

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Toad Hall Wine Tasting: The Hallmark Wine Series, Friday, December 16th at 5:30pm. Join Alan Hallmark, Rat’s Restaurant’s resident wine expert on the third Friday of every month as he makes fine wine both approachable and fun. Topic of Discussion: Tuscany: From Straw Basket to Super Tuscans. $10 per person, which will be applied toward your meal should you choose to dine at Rat’s following the tasting. Space is limited. Please call Rat’s Restaurant at (609) 584-7800 to reserve your place.

Annual Hanakkah Dinner, Friday, December 16th at 6pm, followed by service at 7:30pm. Join Temple Micah in the Village of Lawrenceville for a pot-luck dinner, spirited signing, great company, and chocolate gelt. For more information: Temple Micah

Beer Tasting, Saturday, December 17th from 12pm-3pm. Stibinger Bros. Beer wants you to choose: Red Ale or White Ale? This tasting will determine our production launch anticipated 2012! Its only $15 to get in *MUST BRING ID, (includes Stibinger Bros. pint glass) The Beer is Free, drink Red & White Ale’s until kegs are empty, pick your favorite on feedback forms provided. Held at Nj Bar and Grill West, Stanhope. For more information: Beer Tasting

Holiday Cooking Class, Saturday, December 17th at 12pm & 3pm. Park Ave. Bar and Grill. Chef Todd Villani will demonstrate unique recipes, teaching you how to create an entire holiday feast. Each class includes a 1-hour demonstration, in depth Q&A session, printed materials and recipes, a full meal and drink pairing. Advanced registration is required. For more information: Park Ave 201-617-7275

Sparkling Holidays at Four Sisters Winery, Saturday & Sunday, December 17th & 18th from 11am-6pm. Sparkling wine punch will be served with holiday cookies. Many holiday gift baskets and other items will be available for purchase. Enjoy a complimentary wine tasting and wine cellar tour. www.foursisterswinery.com

Holiday Treats, Saturday & Sunday, December 17th & 18th. Sharrott Winery will be providing free holiday treats to pair with their wines. There will also be specials on holiday gifts. Tastings are $5 and include a souvenir glass and optional tour. For more information: Sharrott

Holiday Family Fun Day, Sunday, December 18th from 12:30pm-4:30pm. Pilsener Haus is following in the European tradition and making the Biergarten a place for all ages. Bring the kids to jam out to Big Jeff and the Bouncy People. For more information: Pilsener Haus

And Beyond…

Beer & Wine Tasting, Monday, December 19th from 6pm-9pm. The Melting Pot in Red Bank will be hosting this tasting event to benefit St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital. The tasting will be at both Melting Pot & Taste Restaurant, featuring wines from over two dozen wineries and over a dozen breweries as well as food from the restaurants and other local Red Bank businesses. Live entertainment will also be present. Tickets can be purchased in advance and at the door. For more information: 732-219-0090

Craft Beer Bar Mitvah, Book Reading & Beer Tasting, Tuesday, December 20th from 7pm-9pm. Celebrate the first night of Chanukah 2011 with Shmaltz Brewing Co. founder Jeremy Cowan as he reads select passages from his new book, Craft Beer Bar Mitzvah. Afterwards, stick around for a tasting of several Shmaltz Brewing Co. beers! Held at Barcade, Jersey City. For more information: 201-332-4555

‘Land To Sea’ Cooking Demonstration, Wednesday, January 11th at 6:30pm. Join Marilyn for “Land to Sea: Cooking with Marilyn,” a demonstration and dinner at Langosta Lounge, Asbury Park. Take a culinary journey inspired by the vacation cuisine featured at her restaurants. Following the demonstration and Q&A session, enjoy the exquisite meal side by side with the restaurateur. “Land to Sea” will benefit the Boys and Girls Club in Asbury Park. Tickets are $50. For more info or to make reservations, please call 732-455-3275.

Unquenchable: A Wine Lover’s Treasure Trove

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As we gaily (or sometimes frantically) shop our way through the holiday season, it is sometimes difficult to determine what to get for the wine lover in your life. Sure, there is the obvious (wine). But there are only so many wine carriers, rabbit ear openers, decanters and wine stoppers that one person can accumulate. Here’s another idea: a book about wine or wine regions. One of the best that I have read is Natalie MacLean’s new book: Unquenchable: A Tipsy Quest for the World’s Best Bargain Wines.

Natalie is a Canadian wine writer who embarked on a journey around the world to meet wine makers who make good, well-priced wines (wouldn’t you love her job)? Australia, South Africa, Sicily, Provence-she’s got them all covered. Her writing style provides a great sense of place for each of the locations she visited, and her lyrical descriptions of the wines she enjoyed made me want to run out and buy them (in other words, I’ll have what she’s having). At the same time, she is honest about some of the shortcomings exhibited by certain winemakers at various points in history (such as the poor quality of South African wines when trade sanctions were imposed during apartheid). She also talks about the great meals that she enjoyed in each location (did I mention that I want her job)? Best of all, she focuses on wines that are affordable and approachable.

Even after your favorite wine lover finishes the book, they can still use it as a wine and food resource. At the end of each chapter, Natalie gives a list of her favorite bargain priced wines from each region, a list of food and wine parings, an outline of books about the wines of that region, and a terrific “related reading” list of non-wine books about each area. There are also links on her website (http://www.nataliemaclean.com/) where you can find a treasure trove of wine suggestions and recipes (which sound delicious, although Americans will have to convert the recipes from Celsius to Fahrenheit). This is a dense yet enjoyable book that is meant to be slowly savored, like a good glass of wine. If you know someone who is an active (or armchair) traveler and wine lover, this would be a great gift!

Disclosure-I received a complimentary review copy of the book. All opinions are my own.

Beth Christian, Burlington County Regional Editor, subsisted primarily on cheeseburgers and liverwurst sandwiches during childhood and refused to try most new foods.  Her culinary horizons were expanded during her college days in Schenectady, New York, where she learned the joys of trying slow-simmered Italian dishes, Szechuan cuisine, and everything in between.  When not engaged in the practice of law in Monmouth County, Beth is busy scouting out interesting restaurants,  farmer’s markets and food purveyors near her home in Burlington County. Beth’s primary dining sidekick is her husband John, but she also enjoys having her daughter Meghan, son Michael and her wonderful friends come along for the ride. Email Beth at [email protected]

Cake Boss Celebrates Tropicana and Atlantic Cape Community College Of Culinary Arts 30TH Anniversary

TLC’S CAKE BOSS of Hoboken helped the Tropicana Casino and Resort and Atlantic Cape Community College of Culinary Arts celebrate their 30th anniversaries in a “Sweet” way recently on the floor of the Palm Walk in the Trop Casino in Atlantic City. ‘Buddy’ Valastro better known as the CAKE BOSS on the TLC Channel reality show baked a vanilla and chocolate fudge cake for the occasion. It measured 5 feet long, 3 feet wide, and 4 feet tall and featured the six buildings that make up the Tropicana Casino and Hotel properties. It took a team of 10 people four days to complete. And as President and CEO of Tropicana Tony Rodio said “Anytime you have a celebration of any kind, you bake a cake, and what better way then with the Cake Boss himself?“ Valastro said it could feed 1,000 people, which sent the huge crowd watching the event into cheers, myself included. I guess Marie Antionette was right with the “Let them eat cake” line. I managed to get a piece of the cake along with the many other fans. It was yummy and moist. All around me happy people were oohing and ahhing and licking their fingers trying to get every last crumb.

The 12 Student Baker Contestants from the ACCA displayed their own cake creations that best represented the 30th Anniversary of Tropicana Casino and Resort which was judged by “The Boss” himself on presentation and taste. The two happy winners were Danielle Andreessen , 19, of the Villas whose cake was a replica of the Palm Walk and Erika Emmerling, 20, of Berlin, and her partner Amanda Raulerson, 21, of Toms River who created a four layer cake that highlighted the beach, The Quarter, IMAX Theater, and Casino. Emmerling said, “It was really hard work doing it while working and going to school, but it all paid off.”

Ruth Latorre, a chief educator for the Academy was on hand, and told us the students, who were divided into eight groups of two, were given a week to design and bake a cake using any method and flavor of their choosing. She said it was good to see the students use all the practice and hard work in the real world. Cape Community College of Culinary Arts has their own restaurant in B Building, on the ACCC Campus on the Black Horse Pike in Mays Landing, New Jersey called CAREME’S RESTAURANT. The restaurant showcases the many talents of the culinary students at great prices to the public. Call 609-343-4940 for reservations and information on their many special foodie events and happenings. I will be eating there myself in the coming days and can’t wait to tell you about it.

Valastro ended his 20-city tour Saturday at the Tropicana, but said he would love to return. You can check out his amazing creations at Carlo’s Bakery, 95 Washington Street in Hoboken, New Jersey or on his website www.carlosbakery.com. Also, you can check out his TLC shows CAKE BOSS, KITCHEN BOSS, and THE NEXT GREAT BAKER.

Michele Errichetti is from South Jersey born and fed. She comes from an Italian family where they eat, live, and breathe FOOD. Michele was cooking and eating under her grandmom’s feet every Sunday for “gravy” and at home with her mother ( a Medigan’ or American) during the week. Nowadays, she cooks for her two sons, husband, and father most days of the week. She takes “Girl Road Trips” with her friends at least once a month that always culminate with you guessed it, FOOD. She hopes fresh, local, organic, and free range will become the norm. Michele is searching Atlantic County for everything that has anything to do with good food and she’s taking you along for the ride.

The Taste of Passion: NYC Chocolate Show

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Chocolate Kisses, NYC Chocolate Show 2011People say “I love chocolate” all the time. I say (and demonstrate through worshipful consumption) how much I “love” chocolate all the time, practically defining my personality by it. There are cat people, there are electronic gadget people, there are craft people; I am a chocolate person. And so were the many hundreds of others who gathered at the Metropolitan Pavilion last month for the gorgeous, glorious, gastronomically glamorous 14th Annual New York Chocolate Show.

Food events like this are, above all, overwhelming. With more than 65 exhibitors filling the room, live demonstrations happening in various corners, and a Pantone fan deck–worth of color and design vying for your attention from signage, packaging, book jackets, and displays at every turn, it is enough to cause vertigo. Happily there is plenty of curative chocolate on hand to restore you as quickly as it did Harry Potter after a bout with the Dementors.

NYC Chocolate Show, 2011The key to navigating the Chocolate Show, I’ve found, is to seek out the passion. Everything tastes good, everything looks lovely, but when you find the exhibitor (whether the chocolatier him or herself or an enthusiastic brand ambassador) whose honest excitement about and true dedication to their product—their art—are as boldly on display as their edible wares, that’s where you strike gold.

Sugar and Plumm, Purveyors of Yumm – Sweet, Savory and Sophisticated Fare For All Ages

Combine the chic of Neiman Marcus, the comfort of a bistro menu, the whimsy of an old-fashioned ice cream parlor and the magic of Willy Wonka and you have Sugar and Plumm, Purveyors of Yumm. The fantasy of kids with a sweet tooth and grown-ups who want well-priced, well-prepared food comes together to create a magical experience for diners. On multiple visits, my companions and I were consistently impressed with freshly baked classic French pastry (only the burger buns are baked off premise by Balthazar Bakery in Englewood), crispy, artistically plated salads, juicy burgers and hand-cut fries served in mini fryer baskets lined with red and white check paper and an exquisite crispy-skin salmon served with a lush lemon hollandaise and sautéed haricot vert. Bergen families searching for good food, well-priced, family friendly and dare we say, fun, may find the answer at this new Bergen Town Center café and retailer. Sugar and Plumm’s owner Lamia Jacobs, a former oil trader who grew up in Paris and mother of four, said fun was a big part of the equation when it came to creating the restaurant’s concept.

“In Paris, we can get a steak, omelet, crepe or salad any time of the day or night at bistros, but I wasn’t able to find that when we moved to the States,” said the Greenwich, CT resident. “I wanted a menu that was equally savory and sweet, offering sustainable and organic whenever possible and all about comfort. Chicken and waffles are one of our most popular items and people love our crepes, sundaes and hand-made chocolates, everything top quality.” Indeed, Mrs. Jacobs seems to have found the right blend of kid-friendly, yet sophisticated ambience to keep adults happy and a menu that emphasizes well-executed sweet and savory items and nostalgic, comfort foods.

Located in the middle of Bergen Town Center in Paramus, the 4,500 square foot restaurant cum retail space, is clean and efficiently run. Café walls are adorned with hand-painted trompe l’oeil murals that would befit a nursery and curlicue slogans about the wonders of chocolate. Plum colored banquets with bright button detailing complete the space as white puffy clouds dance merrily on the ceiling. Following a crepe station, gelato and ice cream galley, chocolate, confection, sweets and pastry cases, visitors will marvel at floor to ceiling displays of everything from bulk candy to jelly bean dispensers, cookies for decorating along with all the accoutrements needed for proper embellishment, stuffed animals, fashion accessories and an impressive array of iconic candy from years past.

The Sugar and Plumm Paramus location will be the first for the company that will soon open its second café on the Upper West Side in Manhattan. The back of the house team is headed up by Steven Ferdinand, a French Culinary Institute graduate who was Executive Chef at the MGM Grand in Las Vegas, and Corporate Executive Pastry Chef and chocolatier, Franck Labasse. A Moonachie corporate kitchen turns out all the restaurant’s chocolate, pastries, desserts, breads and which arrive in twice daily shipments to the Paramus retail location.

Grandparents and grandchildren tucked away in booths are as common a sighting at Sugar and Plumm as are lunching ladies, teen girls, moms and toddlers, families and couples dating. The flexibility of the menu (organized into one side savory, one side sweet) makes the restaurant an easy choice for those looking for hearty breakfast fare (starting at $6) mid-morning or late afternoon, a savory sandwich (starting at $8), topped with a fried egg for $1 more. Pancakes are lightened with ricotta and served with berry compote and Vermont maple syrup ($9) and lemon curd and nutella are $2 additional. Savory buckwheat crepes are filled with everything from ham and swiss ($9) to smoked salmon, crème fraiche, onion, capers, market greens and lemon vinaigrette ($12). Stacked waffles start with smoked bacon, aged cheddar and fried egg ($8) and the popular crispy free-range chicken tenders, served with rich, creamy butter, Vermont maple syrup and house hot sauce ($12). The pulled pork stacked waffle ($12) is equally enticing with succulent maple BBQ pork, tangy pickled onion slaw, bibb lettuce and chipotle mayo. Soups are excellent and include classic chicken noodle ($4/cup), full of large pieces of pulled tender chicken in a rich broth and plenty of noodles and aromatic veggie chunks, and butternut squash ($4) which is topped with crunchy roasted butternut squash seeds and a drizzle of EV olive oil. (I wish the restaurant would omit the sage leaves served atop the chicken noodle soup as the taste of sage, in my view, is too assertive; it would work better on the butternut squash soup if fried briefly in butter to crisp it.)

Sandwiches and Panini start at $8 for a triple decker grilled cheese and include delicious roast chicken, Kobe Beef, a foot long angus beef frank ($12) served with house made mustard, relish and onion and the Plumm Burger ($12) which is served on a toasted egg roll with smoked bacon, white cheddar, bibb lettuce and tomato and a side of sweet and tangy plumm tomato jam, which I could have eaten several more ramekins of.

Entrees, which number six and range from $10 for a squat cast iron pot filled with tangy, gooey Mac & Cheese to flat iron steak ($19), free range chicken breast ($17) served with lemon spinach and onion pan sauce to my favorite, the crispy skin salmon ($21). I want fully developed flavors in food and I love butter. I don’t like it when chefs are stingy with butter or tasty morsels that pack a lot of flavor, like sautéed shallots. So, let me say that I love the sautéed haricot vert, those elegant slender string beans, that accompany the crispy-skin salmon as much as I love the salmon itself. The ratio of butter and silky, caramelized shallots to string beans is perfect, making every bite rich and satisfying.

Salads start at an appetizer portion of hummus ($9) served with pita chips, pickle and olives and include a colorful Cobb ($12) served with Maytag blue cheese and tangy, rich buttermilk dressing. I love the simple salad ($8) consisting of nearly an entire head of bibb lettuce, crispy, fresh and well-dressed with a bright lemony vinaigrette and paper thin sweet slices of fuscia colored radish. Side dishes, all $5, include marble potato salad with smoked bacon, French lentils, seasonal fruit and berries.

At the risk of sounding like I don’t get the point of Sugar and Plumm, I confess that I am more excited about the savory side of the menu than the sweet side. That is a personal “issue,” and while I do enjoy sweets, I care more about the before-dessert-fare. However, I would find no fault with anyone who said they visited Sugar and Plumm simply for its decadent molten chocolate cake plated dessert ($8) with oozing rich chocolate cake served with homemade vanilla ice cream. With desserts, Mrs. Jacobs’ influence can also be seen, as she loves sweets but thinks too much sweetness masks the true flavors of other ingredients. She’s spot on and this can be tasted in the restaurant’s ice creams, gelati, sorbets, tarts, compotes and even dessert drinks. Things are well-flavored, but never cloyingly sweet. This is a refreshing departure. The restaurant lovingly embellishes sundaes with all manner of candy, fruits, confections, house made sauces and crunchy nuts along with sophisticated meringue, sometimes served whole, as in the Bee hive ($8) which is piled high and filled with ice cream or crushed as a sweet path to drag your spoon along through a trio of sorbets. Flavors are fresh, fruits discernible in each bite.

This is food that is well thought out and flavorful. Sundaes start at $9 for the Yumm Drop which combines homemade brownie topped with vanilla ice cream and two more scoops of chocolate, covered with homemade fudge sauce, vanilla scented whipped cream and finished with a meringue baton. Peach melba ($9) is served with fresh raspberry coulis and finished with slivered almonds. Our neighbors feasted on Banana Split ($10) and an Over The Yumm ($40) which is a sundae on steroids and enough to feed one good sized family. Suffice it to say that sweet crepes and waffles, starting at $8, and delectable tarts of fruit, chocolate and peanut butter varieties, all $5 and available in mini flights ($7.50) are simply sublime. Hot chocolate ($3.50) is served in an over-sized cup and saucer with bobbing homemade marshmallows, whipped cream and drizzled with chocolate sauce. Water is filtered onsite, an important and appreciated offering. The restaurant plans a winter and seasonal menu changes.

Sugar and Plumm Purveyors Of Yumm
620 Bergen Town Center, Paramus, 201-880-8156
www.sugarandplumm.com
Monday – Friday 10:00am to 10:00pm.
Saturday 9:00am to 11:00pm. Call ahead to confirm holiday hours, which may be slightly different from the normal hours.

Heidi Raker Goldstein is our Bergen county regional editor.  A locavore, cooking enthusiast, publicist and mother of three junior gourmands, Heidi is equally comfy in greasy spoons and high-end restaurants.  When not visiting local farmers markets and farm stands in Bergen and Rockland counties, this New England native, former Manhattanite and Bergen county resident is busy running her PR and green marketing agency, Raker Goldstein & Co., buying food, planning menus, cooking food, writing about food or simply eating.  To reach Heidi, email her at

Foodie Things to Do This Weekend and Beyond

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Cape May Wine Week: Sparkling Wines, Friday-Sunday, December 9th-11th. Triple your enjoyment by combining a wine tasting dinner, winery cellar tour & tasting, and a wine school class. This weekend-long event is sure to leave you feeling relaxed and well. For more information: CM Wine Week

Gingerbread Wonderland & Craft Show, Saturday, December 8th – Sunday, December 11th from 9:30am-5pm. Guests young and old marvel at the creativity, skills, and sense of optimism that characterizes this charming exhibit of over 200 editable structures. Held on weekends in conjunction with the Gingerbread Wonderland exhibit, the Holiday Craft Show is a great place to find hand-made holiday gifts from local crafters. For more information: Gingerbread Wonderland

Christkindlmarkt, Saturday & Sunday, December 10th & 11th from 10am-4pm. Tuckerton Seaport. An old-fashioned Christmas featuring holiday crafts and gifts under huge heated tents. Sip hot mulled cider, enjoy chestnuts roasting on an open fire, sing-a-long with strolling carolers, children’s rides, horse drawn cart, entertainment, decoy carvers, quilt making, crafters, vendors, food, refreshments plus wine tasting by Valenzano Winery. “Gingerbread Contest!” For more information: Tuckerton Seaport

Feast of the Seven Fishes, Saturday, December 10th & 17th at 11:30am. A cooking class will be held at Phillips Seafood, Pier Shops at Caesars, 1 Atlantic Ocean, Atlantic City. Tickets are $65 including a chef demo, wine, and lunch. Call 609-348-2273 for reservations, or log on to www.phillipsseafood.com.

‘Rockin Around The Vines’ Festival, Saturday & Sunday, December 10th & 11th from 12pm-5pm. Do some holiday shopping with a glass of wine in your hand, and great live music in the all at Natali Vineyards. There will be over 25 local vendors selling all kinds of unique LOCAL holiday gift items. Enjoy a wine tasting of 5 wines for $5, or just purchase wines by the bottle and sit under the heated tent and enjoy another great local band. Natali will have some great holiday wine baskets on display for sale. FREE Vineyard and barrel room tour at 2:30pm both days. For more information: Natali Vineyards

Whoville Feast, Sunday, December 11th from 11:30am-1:30pm. “Welcome, Christmas, bring your cheer. Cheer to all Whos far and near” Roastbeast on a Bun, Suess Spuds and Cindy Lou Who Cider are just some of the Grinchy grub being served at Liberty Hall’s Whoville Feast. Reservations required. For more information: Liberty Hall Museum

And Beyond…

Cheese Tasting & Wine Sampling, Monday, December 12th from 6pm-8pm. Pre-holiday tasting at The Serenity Cafe in Toms River. There will also be plenty of cheese on hand for your holiday shopping needs. For more information or to RSVP: 732-270-2088 Serenity Cafe

Land to Sea: Cooking with Marilyn, Wednesday, December 14th. Join Marilyn Schlossbach for a demonstration and dinner at Langosta Lounge. Take a culinary journey inspired by the vacation cuisine featured at her restaurants. Following the demonstration and Q&A session, enjoy the exquisite meal side by side with the restaurateur. “Land to Sea” will benefit the Foodbank of Monmouth and Ocean Counties. Tickets are $50. For more info or to make reservations, please call 732-455-3275.

Cocktail Class, Thursday, December 15th at 7pm. Spiked Dessert Coffees: Keoke Coffee, Irish Coffee, and B-52 Coffee. Held at Stone House at Stirling Ridge, 50 Stirling Ave, Warren. The event will include appetizers and take-home recipe cards. Tickets are $30 with a reservation, $35 at the door. To reserve, call 866-683-3586.

Toad Hall Wine Tasting: The Hallmark Wine Series, Friday, December 16th at 5:30pm. Join Alan Hallmark, Rat’s Restaurant’s resident wine expert on the third Friday of every month as he makes fine wine both approachable and fun. Topic of Discussion: Tuscany: From Straw Basket to Super Tuscans. $10 per person, which will be applied toward your meal should you choose to dine at Rat’s following the tasting. Space is limited. Please call Rat’s Restaurant at (609) 584-7800 to reserve your place.

Sparkling Holidays at Four Sisters Winery, Saturday & Sunday, December 17th & 18th from 11am-6pm. Sparkling wine punch will be served with holiday cookies. Many holiday gift baskets and other items will be available for purchase. Enjoy a complimentary wine tasting and wine cellar tour. www.foursisterswinery.com

New Jersey’s Beer in Review: 2011

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I’ve had a mug full of fun being the beer editor of JerseyBites this past year.  It’s been my privilege to meet some interesting people, taste amazing beers and generally get my beer geek on.  As the end of the year approaches and nostalgia sets in, it’s only fitting to look back and see what some of my favorite beer folks have been up to and maybe get a peek at what 2012 has in store.

Way back in the beginning of the year I made the trip down the turnpike to visit with Gene Muller of Flying Fish Brewery.  Well, since then, it seems that Flying Fish has made some travel plans of their own.  They are moving to a new facility in Somerdale, NJ!  It’s much bigger than their old building and, according to Gene, “The new building is going to let us make our beer a lot more efficiently and even more environmentally friendly. We’re going to have solar on the roof, rain gardens to repurpose storm water, and high efficiency equipment throughout the facility. We’ll also finally have the capacity to bring out some new styles and new packages, like 12 packs.”  Now that’s my kind of green beer!   Christmas present alert: Since they weren’t able to do another in their Exit series this year, they are re-releasing some from the cellar!  If you visit the brewery on December 10th or 17th, you can buy Exit’s 4, 9, 13 and 16.  Gift boxes available!

While Flying Fish has been on the New Jersey craft beer scene for a long time, there’s a couple of new kids on the block picking up steam: Carton Brewery and Kane Brewery.  Maybe my new year’s resolution should be to stop mentioning them both in the same paragraph.  Their styles and philosophies are different and each deserves to stand alone as a quality brewery.   That said, both have a similar business model and are rocking the local taps.  It seems like every day I hear that another bar or restaurant has added one of them to the tap list.   As far as Augie Carton is concerned, “It’s going well.  We are getting out there and getting positive feedback.  So far, Jersey likes it and that’s the mission.” Michael Kane tells me that a Belgian style red will be coming out early next year.  He’s also setting up a couple of new, smaller brew tanks so we’ll have to keep an eye out for what comes out of them.  His Drift Line winter seasonal “is selling really well.  We only planned on one batch, but it’s going so well we’ve done two more and plan to have it available through the end of the year and into the new year.” There’s also an Imperial IPA on the way too!

Speaking of taps, you won’t find more in one place in the Garden State than at Maloney’s in Matawan.  They are known for their beer dinners and with a  new chef it’s only going to get better in 2012.  There’s a Saint Bernardus beer pairing on December 16 and “We will have some really phenomenal Belgian beers on tap for that event for the first time.” according to Meghan.  “We love our imports here and consider that to be something that sets us apart from our competitors.”  With over 70 taps, I don’t know who their competitors are but there’s also a Winter Solstice celebration on December 22nd featuring Anderson Valley beer.  Dogfish Head swims up in January and La Chouffe will warm your heart in February for Valentine’s day.

As we’ve seen, Chris LaPierre of Iron Hill in Maple Shade is all about the collaboration.  I heard he was going to Belgium and sure enough, “Yep, I’m going to Belgium to brew at the DuPont Brewery. I’m very excited about that. I’ve always been a fan of Saison DuPont and modeled my gold winning recipe on it. So it’s going to be great to actually go there and see what they do.” Color me impressed!  If that’s not enough he is, “also excited about the release of the collaboration we did with Jerry Vietz of Unibroue. I can’t really say it’s a collaboration as the formulation was all Jerry! I really just showed him how to work my system and did all the cellarmanship of the beer. I had a great time working with him though and it reminded me of how precise you have to be when you work in a production brewery. That beer will be released on February 28th. Jerry will be here for the release and we should have a couple other Unibroue products on tap that evening.” Put it on the calendar.   If you missed out on his Pumpkin Ale Redux (3 different pumpkin brews) this year, there’s plans to ramp it up again next year.

Finally, for auld lang syne’s sake, I reached out to Gretchen Scmidhausler the former brewer at Basil T’s in Red Bank, and the subject of my first article for JerseyBites.  I’m happy to report that Gretchen is still in the New Jersey beer scene.  She’ll be working as the Administrative Liaison for the Garden State Craft Brewers Guild.  Even more exciting, she’s launched Gretchenbrew, a consulting, beer education and tastings venture!After the first of the year I will have more of a presence and will have much more to say.” says Gretchen.  I know I’ll be listening and I’ll make sure you hear about it too!

2011 was a good year for beer in our state.  Clearly though, there will be more to explore in 2012 and I can hardly wait!  Happy Holidays and I’ll see you in the tasting room!

Peter Culos is the editor of “Beer Bites,” a new monthly feature about breweries, bars and good beer in the garden state.  A graphic designer by day, and a life long New Jersey resident,  Peter was first introduced to the novel idea that beer could actually have flavor during several visits to the UK.  He’s been riding the craft beer bus ever since.  It has been called the ultimate social lubricant and Peter’s philosophy on beer is, “I’d rather split my last good beer with a friend than drink the whole thing by myself.”  Besides beer he also likes history, dogs, Jeeps and painting.  In the past, he has written a History and Art blog for the Weider History Group and occasionally contributes to his own blog,

No One Wines Like A Jersey Girl

I recently received an e-mail that really touched me. It said this HOLIDAY SEASON we should support our country’s economy. I instantly thought, how is that possible with everything being mass produced for our consumption in other countries. Our family tried to build and furnish our new home a few years ago with “American Made” and found it to be almost impossible and cost prohibitive. How could I possibly do my holiday shopping and support our country as much as possible in the process? As I continued reading the e-mail the sender had made some great suggestions. They recommended buying restaurant, dinner theatre, concert, museum, salon and spa gift certificates, but the idea that grabbed my attention was go to local arts and craft fairs and help a “starving artist” this year. Aha! There were a few fairs in my area and I decided to check one of them out.

I love Arts and Crafts Fairs and got into the rhythm going up and down the aisles, scoping out the best route to cover all the booths, not wanting to miss a single thing. Jewelry, pottery, glass, textiles it was all there. But then I spotted it, Jersey Girl Wine Jelly. I haven’t had delicious wine jelly for years. An old family treat I had all but forgotten. I had to taste it! Michele Birtch and Stephanie Clineman, a mother and daughter team from Mays Landing and Galloway respectively are the creators of the company. What started out as a family favorite recipe for friends and family has become a full time business. The names of the all the varieties of Jelly I was told, are made up by the women as well. “How Merlot Can You Go?”, “It Should Be A Zin!”, “Chardonnay Moi?”, and “Que Shiraz Shiraz!”.

I tried the zinfandel first, because it was most like the homemade jelly I remembered from my childhood. Yummy! It was love at first taste. I tasted them all and loved each flavor. The best part is they sell them all in different size jars all together as well as individually. I purchased three wrapped packages of all the flavors for holiday gifts that I knew would be appreciated by my foodie friends and family. They also have their special HOLIDAY jelly made with Champagne called Holiday Bubbly. The alcohol cooks out completely, so you can share it with your kids, but who would? Let them get their own. They would be perfect on your holiday table paired with some wonderful artisnal cheese and crackers or drizzled over pork or chicken as a glaze or maybe with some Greek yogurt and berries…Oh sorry, I was drooling. Well, you get the idea.

Check them out at www.jerseygirlwinejelly.com or contact them at [email protected].

Michele Errichetti is from South Jersey born and fed. She comes from an Italian family where they eat, live, and breathe FOOD. Michele was cooking and eating under her grandmom’s feet every Sunday for “gravy” and at home with her mother ( a Medigan’ or American) during the week. Nowadays, she cooks for her two sons, husband, and father most days of the week. She takes “Girl Road Trips” with her friends at least once a month that always culminate with you guessed it, FOOD. She hopes fresh, local, organic, and free range will become the norm. Michele is searching Atlantic County for everything that has anything to do with good food and she’s taking you along for the ride.

Recipe: Creamy Artichoke Dip

Oh, ’tis the season! Finding how much wrapping paper is left over from last year, looking for parking spots at the mall, and baking approximately 5,000 cookies. With all that going on, it’s great to have an appetizer in your arsenal that is quick and delicious and different! Personally, anything that involves an artichoke pretty much has me at hello. There’s something about artichokes that are just so scrumptious.

Now, recipes that involve fresh artichokes can be a little daunting, but for this one you get to use those frozen packages of artichokes from the freezer section, so hurray for that! Defrost one of those babies, and in the meantime, you start the recipe by soaking a few slices of bread in some water. This is going to give your dip a nice creamy texture with no cream. Yep, this dip is actually good AND good for you. Now squeeze the bread until the water is mostly out of it, and toss it into your food processor with the thawed artichokes and a couple of anchovies. (Don’t be tempted to leave the anchovies out. I promise your dip is not going to taste like salted fish…the anchovies are going to give it that little hit of “umami” taste that makes Caesar salad taste so dang good.)

Now whirl the whole thing in the food processor until its a paste. Now you are going to drizzle in some olive oil until it is a lovely dip consistency, along with a few spoonfuls of lemon juice. Season it with a little salt and pepper, spoon it into a pretty dish, and drizzle some nice olive oil on top. Grind on some pepper, sprinkle a few chives on top and voila! One more thing crossed off your holiday dinner list. I like this with pita chips and pieces of endive, but pretty much anything will taste terrific dipped into this. I mean, we are talking artichokes here.

Happy delicious holidays, everyone!

Creamy Artichoke Dip, from Everyday Food

4 slices day-old crusty white bread with crusts removed, torn into 2-inch pieces (3 cups)

2 anchovy fillets, drained

1 box (9 ounces) frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and drained

1/2 teaspoon sugar

2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Coarse salt and ground pepper

Chopped fresh chives, for serving

In a medium bowl, pour 1 cup water over bread. Immediately squeeze as much water as possible from bread and transfer to a food processor along with anchovies, artichokes, and sugar. Process until a paste forms.

With machine running, slowly add oil, scraping down bowl as needed. With machine still running, add lemon juice, 1 tablespoon at a time, until mixture is creamy. Season to taste with salt and pepper and transfer to a serving dish.

To serve, top with chives and a drizzle of oil.

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