CREATE AN EATING STRATEGY If you decide that, despite the warnings, you really, really must have the decadent version of a classic Jersey eat, at least try to show some restraint. Here’s how: MONITOR AMOUNTS “It’s all about frequency and portion size,” says Robyn Flipse, a dietitian and author from Bradley Beach. “Pork roll and cheese…
Coming Soon: Jughandle Brewing in Tinton Falls
What better way for a beer writer to celebrate a new year than by visiting a new brewery? Thankfully, here in New Jersey, that’s not hard to do. You don’t even have to travel far. According to that ubiquitous source for craft beer in the Garden State, NJ Craft Beer, there are 42 operating breweries with another 26 startups on deck.
One of them is Jughandle Brewing in Tinton Falls.
At Jersey Bites, we love a good double entendre so I just had to go pay them a visit and see how things were progressing. Here’s what I found: You’d be hard pressed to pick a better team than the three guys responsible for Jughandle. Pete Artherholt is a chemist, carpenter and home brewer. (His wife, Darlene, is a microbiologist to boot.) Besides being another home brewer, Chris Hanigan is also a graphic design and marketing guy. Rounding out the roster is Mike Skudera. He’s the business guy—and the ex-mayor of Tinton Falls. I’d say the bases are covered.
I showed up on a Saturday and all three partners were there putting in their sweat equity. This a DIY project. Table saws, two-by-fours and tile were the order of the day. They have only contracted out for plumbing, electric, and concrete for the brewing area. Their NJ brewing license in Trenton and the brew house equipment is on the way.
Since there was no beer to taste (Kane is only a few minutes away so I stopped there afterwards), I had to ask what will be on tap once they open in the spring. Here’s what I learned: the focus will be on an entertaining and interesting tap room. Standards like IPAs can be expected but I’m told they make a killer Heffeweisse. There was also talk of a tart Berliner Weisse complete with homemade “mit schuss.” (That’s the sweet flavored syrup that German’s often add to that style.) I haven’t seen that in a tap room recently.
Another idea they’ve been kicking around is to offer crowlers, which are 32 oz. cans that can be filled and sealed right there on the bar top. A novelty to be sure, but it will keep beer fresh three or four times as long as regular glass growler. There is also a sense of community at Jughandle. Like most pros, they have their roots in home brewing. Since there is no local home brew club, they are definitely looking to engage local hobbyists.
They’re hoping for an April or May opening, so keep an eye on their Facebook page for updates.
Jughandle Brewing
4057 Asbury Avenue
Tinton Falls
Jersey Bites Buzz!
Jersey Bites is thrilled to welcome Susan Bloom, who’s here to keep you up on the latest restaurant comings and goings in the Garden State! Have a restaurant/food outlet opening, closing, or other key development to share? Email your news to [email protected].
NOW OPEN!
128 West State Café
240 W. State Street
Trenton
609-278-1777
Opened on January 12 across from the state Capitol, “the café gives new meaning to ‘Capitol perk,’” says co-owner Dale Florio of the eatery, which offers a variety of sandwiches, salads, bagels, and coffee and aims to provide quick, convenient, and high-quality breakfast and lunch fare to Trenton’s Capitol community.
B2 Bistro & Bar
141 Shrewsbury Avenue
Red Bank
732-268-8555
Opened last June, this contemporary Mediterranean restaurant offers signature dry-aged burgers that have been ranked among the 10 Best Burgers in America by USA Today as well as an extensive array of charcuterie, cheese, wine, and draft/boutique beers hand-selected by owner Andrew Rasizer and Chef Cesare DeChellis. “Our food is of a fine-dining caliber but in a relaxed, unpretentious atmosphere,” shares host Michael Manzo of the restaurant’s upscale but casual style.
Francesca Gourmet Foods
1051 Main Street
River Edge
201-678-1188
Opened on December 8, this 6,000 square-foot gourmet market offers everything from soups, salads, sandwiches, and other prepared foods to gourmet ingredients such as imported oils and vinegars, packaged pastas, olives, and other artisanal products. With 8-10 staple items such as panko-crusted chicken cutlets, a rotating selection of creative menu specials prepared fresh daily, and recently-launched or soon-to-be introduced features such as an omelette station, a fresh-made mozzarella station, and a new line of homemade frozen desserts and pastas, “we provide high-level, New York City restaurant-quality food that’s easily accessible for today’s busy residents,” says Francesca Gourmet Foods owner/CEO and self-described foodie Keith Alliotts. “We offer unique options you can’t get elsewhere.”
Greek Eats
89 Newman Springs Road
Shrewsbury
732-530-0777
Opened on November 17, this authentic Greek fast-casual eatery represents the latest venture by brothers George, Charlie, and Taso Lyristis, whose other restaurants include Teak (Red Bank) and The Bistro at Red Bank. “We offer authentic gyros – also known as yeeros in Greek – with pork, chicken, or angus beef cooked on a spitfire and served exactly as you would enjoy them in Greece, either in a pita sandwich, over salad, or as a dinner,” says Charlie, Greek Eats’ managing partner. Other specialties at the 40-seat restaurant include bifteki, which features ground beef and lamb that can be customized with the diner’s preferred topping, from tzatziki or avocado tzatziki sauce to sriracha, Greek chimichurri, and more.
Kimchi Smoke BBQ Shack
49 W. Church Street
Bergenfield
201-338-8333
Officially opening in mid-January (following a soft opening at the end of December), owner Robert Cho is excited for diners to enjoy his southern Texas/Korean barbeque-inspired menu, complete with such favorites as smoked brisket, pork spareribs, and their signature ‘chonut’ – 12-hour smoked brisket, bourbon chipotle sauce, smoked kimchi, cheddar cheese, and bacon on a glazed doughnut. “There’s lots of kimchi (fermented cabbage) in the dishes and we have a very interesting menu,” says Cho. “There’s nothing like us anywhere around here.” Though primarily a take-out establishment, Kimchi Smoke offers seating for up to seven.
La Tabatiere
303 Herbert Avenue
Closter
201-767-2545
Opened on December 12 on the renovated site of a former children’s afterschool center, this quaint French-style boulangerie features decadent pastries and breads baked fresh daily by CIA-trained and Michelin star-rated pastry chef Jonghun Won. Looking to fill a void – “there was no French bakery in this area,” shares Korean-born Won – La Tabatiere’s specialties include croissants made with French butter, passion fruit crème brioche, baguettes, and Won’s signature three-grain miso bacon bread as well as specialty Stumptown coffee.
Lumi Zi
252 Somerville Road
Bedminster
908-470-0400
Opened on October 30 on the site of former farm-to-table restaurant Two Fifty Two, this cozy continental fusion restaurant offers a range of seafood, meat, and pasta dishes, many prepared and served tableside. Lumi Zi (Albanian for “Black River,” which flows near its Bedminster location) represents the newest venture for chef Roy Marin and owner Antonio Berisha, whose previous eateries included Aquila Cucina in New Providence, The Vine in Basking Ridge, and Bistro 73 in Bernardsville. Among other delicious menu items, don’t miss the eatery’s signature sweet and sour fried calamari appetizer served frites-style in a paper-lined container.
Portside Bar & Liquors
369 Route 36
Port Monmouth
732-769-2834
Opened in mid-December on the vacant site of a former bait and tackle store, this fully-renovated new sports bar/restaurant seats 40 to 50, will launch a menu featuring burgers, wings, and other popular pub food in mid-January, and offers a “relaxed, casual, and friendly atmosphere” according to a Portside spokesperson.
COMING SOON!
Chickie’s & Pete’s Crab House and Sports Bar
220 Rowan Boulevard, Glassboro, will soon welcome this sports-themed restaurant and bar, which will represent the popular Philadelphia-based outlet’s fourth location in New Jersey and 15th overall.
The Halal Guys
This spring, East Brunswick will welcome The Halal Guys, a 26-year-old restaurant chain offering halal meats (which are specially treated and slaughtered according to Islamic law) and signature chicken, beef, falafel, and hummus platters served with its renowned white or red sauce. Set to be the first location in New Jersey and the sixth nationwide so far for the franchise, which started as a popular food truck, “our food is great for grab-and-go and customers will love our large portions and reasonable prices,” says marketing manager Mouhammed AbuAttieh.
CLOSED
Restaurant Memoire
16 Chestnut Street
Ridgewood
In early January, this “seasonal American eclectic eatery” officially closed its doors after an over-three-year run. The announcement followed a quality of life decision by Tom Finnelli, Memoire’s hardworking owner and chef since June 2014, who desired more time with his family.
Photos are all courtesy of their respective restaurants unless otherwise noted.
Monmouth and Ocean County Residents Eligible for Scholarships
RELEASE: The Joe Romanowski Culinary Education Foundation (JOCEF) is currently accepting applications for 2016-2017 scholarships. Monmouth and Ocean County residents enrolled in the culinary or baking programs at the Culinary Education Center at Brookdale Community College are eligible. After completing a written application and essay, selected finalists will move on to a hands-on cooking demonstration.
The Joe Romanowski Culinary Education Foundation was established in the memory of Joseph Romanowski, who mentored and nurtured many of the Jersey Shore’s finest up-and coming chefs. Romanowski was a resident of Eatontown. He was the chef and owner of the highly acclaimed restaurants, Maggie & Joe’s Bistro in Long Branch and Bay Ave Trattoria in Highlands. JOCEF is a 501c3 not-for-profit foundation.
Scholarships will be awarded to students of the Culinary Education Center, the collaboration between Brookdale Community College and the Monmouth County Vocational School District. Funds for JOCEF scholarships are raised through donations and JOCEF”s annual Recipe for Success gala fundraiser.
On Monday, March 14, 2016, the gala will be held at the Navesink Country Club. The event features tastings from over 25 of the Jersey Shore’s finest restaurants, a chance auction, 50/50, wine pull raffle, the opportunity to taste rare wines by the glass and a display of food prepared by scholarship recipients and students at the Culinary Education Center in Asbury Park.
Karen Farrell, a JOCEF board member said, ”In the first two years, JOCEF raised $35,000. In the first year, three students were awarded scholarships. In the second year, four students were awarded. Now in our third year, we hope to keep increasing the number of scholarships we can award each year, thanks to generous support from the community.”
Scholarship applications can be downloaded at the JOCEF Facebook page. The deadline for applications is Monday, January 25, 2016.
Follow JOCEF on Facebook and on Twitter @JOCEFNJ for updates on scholarships and tickets for the 2016 gala.
A Bendix Breakfast on Christmas Eve Eve
‘Twas the Wednesday before Christmas,
And all through the Bendix Diner,
The flat-top grill was sizzling,
Nothing could be finer.
It was a mild, gray, late-December (2015) morning. Corporate jets were landing in nearby Teterboro Airport, knifing their way through the fog. Tractor trailers were highballing along Route 17, north and south. The sound of a commuter train horn, running along the Pascack Valley Line, echoed in the distance. Time for breakfast at the Bendix Diner.
The funky beanery sits on its triangular island in Hasbrouck Heights, at the intersection of Routes 17 and 46, just as it has since 1947. At one point in the late 1930s, Teterboro Airport was briefly renamed Bendix Airport, in honor of the Bendix Aviation Corporation, which had a manufacturing facility adjacent to the air field. That’s the inspiration for the diner’s name.
The Bendix has been featured in books, photographs, paintings, blogs and videos. It’s a fixture in northern New Jersey’s built landscape; a familiar, enduring roadside attraction. Fair warning to all you arrogant, upper-crust, trickle-down, one percenters and bashful, wide-eyed, fair-haired Jersey tourists: keep going. Don’t stop. This joint ain’t for you. There’s a McDonald’s up the road, in Paramus.
The Bendix was built by Master Diners—the masterpiece of the company’s “Enduro” line. Master, which was founded in 1940 by Arthur Schelling and his sons George and Bill, built diners al fresco at the family compound in Pequannock. When the diner manufacturing business faded in the late 1950s, the Schellings redeployed their stainless steel skills to construct Carvel ice cream stores. Arthur died in 1961 and the brothers retired eight years later. George passed away in January 2013, just six months shy of his 100th birthday. Today family descendants still reside in Pequannock and remain proud of the Master legacy.
In May 2013 this reporter had the distinct honor of meeting Bill Schelling. When asked whether, 75 years ago, he and his brother and dad had ever imagined that their handiwork would one day become a revered structure—an icon of retro culture fascination—Bill modestly shook his head. “We didn’t think it was anything special,” he said. “We were in business and we were building diners that our customers wanted.”
Throughout the 1940s and 1950s the Master crew worked outdoors in the Pequannock yard, year round, building diners based on blueprints drawn up by Goethals Van Lenten, Arthur Schelling’s son-in-law. “The diner business was feast or famine,” Bill recalled. “Either we had too much work, or not enough.” Bill said he was the sheet metal guy, bending, cutting and pressing stainless steel. I think I spotted his fingerprints on one of the window frames.
Because I had to start budgeting stomach space and calorie intake for the upcoming Italian family feast on Christmas Eve and big spread with the in-laws on Christmas day, I chose French toast and Taylor ham for breakfast, with a cup of coffee (pictured above). I sacrificed and did without a side order of home fries. The French toast was thick and dense; the Taylor ham was juicy, chewy and salty good. Very nice. Coffee? Not bad.
A small string of Christmas lights hung in the front window, creating variations on a theme—a sweet, slightly melancholy, an ever-so-faint holiday accoutrement. At the far end of the counter, four blue-collar regulars were engaged in spirited banter, giving each other “the business.” Actually, they really were giving each other the business—tracking investment strategies, that is. One guy had his laptop computer open and announced that the market was up 131 points. “I only buy dividend stocks,” he declared. “It’s the gift that keeps on giving.” An amigo inquired to the market watcher about the status of Apple stock. “It’s up 25 cents—no wait, 31 cents,” he replied.
One of his economic associates asked if he would back tomorrow for breakfast at the Bendix. “Yeah, sure, I’ll be here. Tomorrow is Christmas Eve, right?” One of his chums, smiling profusely, shot back: “Yeah, all day.” At that point, the good-natured stock analyst with the laptop stood up and grabbed his buddy by the scruff of the neck, shaking him in slow motion. Good cheer filled the air.
Closer to where I was sitting, a woman wearing big-framed glasses paid her bill. “Same old, same old. Always good,” she announced, referring to the egg platter she just joyfully consumed. An elderly woman, wielding a cane, briefly went into the diner’s back room, where an arsenal of well-worn pots and pans hung from the ceiling, like an abstract art installation. “I have a little trouble walking,” she whispered to me, shuffling along with a shy grin.
A 40-something man and woman, obviously in love, walked in and parked themselves at one of the booths. Cute couple. Two guys with baseball hats followed and sat next to me at the counter. They ordered egg sandwiches to go. Three more guys, also wearing baseball caps, soon followed and sat at a table in the side dining area. Next time I guess I’ll have to bring my Yankees hat. Spring training games start on March 2.
There was time for a second cup of coffee, a moment to meditate on the hypnotic, unending traffic flow speeding by on either side of the diner. As Uncle Floyd once tenderly sang: “…and Route 17, the traffic there is mean, deep in the heart of Jersey.”
After paying my bill, I walked out of the Bendix Diner and headed towards my car. Standing in the parking lot, I turned and stopped to enjoy the blue and pink neon lights glowing in the morning mist. I thought about chestnuts roasting on an open fire, but today Jack Frost wasn’t nipping at anyone’s nose (apologies to the great Nat King Cole). It was 58 degrees, deep in the heart of Jersey, on the Wednesday before Christmas.
Bendix Diner
Route 17 and Williams Ave.
Hasbrouck Heights
201-288-0143
Calling All Cooks: Meadowlands Racetrack Chili Cookoff!
Sponsored
This sponsored article is brought to you by Meadowlands Racing and Entertainment.
In its all-new facility, the Meadowlands Racetrack will host its inaugural Homestyle Chili Cookoff on Saturday, January 30, with a grand prize of $1,000 up for grabs! In addition to the $1,000 grand prize, the winner earns a spot in the International Chili Society’s World’s Championship Chili Cookoff in Reno, Nevada.
Homestyle chili is defined by the International Chili Society as the cook’s favorite combination of ingredients resulting in a dish seasoned with chili peppers and spices. Contestants must cook their chili on site, between 3:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. Judging will take place immediately afterward.
“This event is another opportunity for us to create a unique event to expose new fans to our beautiful facility,” said Meadowlands general manager and CEO, Jason M. Settlemoir. “Plus, who wouldn’t love to cook and sample chili on a cold winter day?”
Both amateur and professional cooks, are invited to register by visiting the sign-up page. There is a $20 registration fee, due prior to the start of cooking. (This covers the membership fee to the International Chili Society.)
In addition to the chili competition, a side contest for homemade salsa will take place, with a $500 first prize.
For complete rules and additional information, click here.
Just how good is YOUR chili?
Dinner with a Side of History: The Ho-Ho-Kus Inn & Tavern
Sponsored
Note: Jersey Bites was invited to visit the Ho-Ho-Kus Inn & Tavern and our writer received a complimentary meal.
Ho-Ho-Kus often grabs the attention of passers by because of its catchy name and rich history. Making the trip to this quaint town is well worth it, especially if you’re into the “small town” feel or looking for a great place to eat. There are plenty of dining places in the area, but the Ho-Ho-Kus Inn & Tavern is sure to catch your eye—and tickle your taste buds.
The Ho-Ho-Kus Inn & Tavern was originally built in 1790, with portions of the building dating back to pre-revolutionary times. The Inn served as a residence until the late 1800s but as time went on, it became a stagecoach shop, hitching post, inn and hotel, as well as a tavern and restaurant for out-of-town travelers. Today, the Ho-Ho-Kus Inn & Tavern stays true to its roots by maintaining some of the design elements and relics from its earliest days while simultaneously putting a modern spin on the restaurant. It is no surprise that the food is just as remarkable as the interior design and atmosphere.
I recently dined there with my boyfriend, on a cold and rainy Friday night. We were immediately warmed after eating the flavorsome bacalao soup. When I think of baccalà, I think of the strong taste of salt on the fish and pretty much prepare myself for such flavor. This soup, however, was perfectly balanced with roasted garlic and cream, making for a savory appetizer, wonderful in both taste and aroma. It was absolutely delicious.
Next, we tried the lobster and white truffle gnocchi and the Nantucket bay scallops. The gnocchi were cooked to perfection, with the most delicious smoked bacon crème fraiche on top. My absolute favorite bite of the night, however, was the mouthwatering scallop dish I had. These tender scallops were placed over a carrot-ginger risotto with really nice beet oil on the side. The risotto was cooked al dente, allowing for some resistance rather than being too soft. I wanted to order more of this dish because it was just that good; I was craving more after we left! We paired both of these dishes with a glass of Kistler chardonnay, which was suggested to us by our waiter and, of course, it was a very good choice.
Lastly, we had the roasted venison with braised Swiss chard, pearl onions, and fingerling potatoes in a cherry-cognac demi sauce. This was both our first time eating venison, so I was a little uncertain at first. But when I took my first bite into it I was pleasantly surprised. The meat was tender—but not gamey—and the cherry-cognac sauce really added to the delightful taste. We paired this dish with a glass of Old Vine zinfandel, a red wine with black cherry notes.
Aside from the food, I really loved the friendly and attentive staff as well as the atmosphere of the restaurant. Each dining room has its own personality. Although they each have an upscale and elegant feel, each room maintains the historical aspect of the restaurant. Dining at the Inn is a rich, cultural experience right in the center of downtown Ho-Ho-Kus.
The Ho-Ho-Kus Inn & Tavern
1 East Franklin Turnpike
Ho-Ho-Kus
[email protected]
201-445-4115
Exterior photo courtesy of the Ho-Ho-Kus Inn & Tavern.
Lunching at The Ryland Inn
Sponsored
Note: Jersey Bites was invited to visit The Ryland Inn and our writer received a complimentary meal.
Outside of food professionals, writers, and intrepid foodies, precious few people seem to know the scope of The Ryland Inn’s menu. I’m here to tell you that they have something for everyone! Whether it’s an intimate family dinner or a large corporate party, The Ryland Inn serves up delicious and upscale meals in a beautifully refined setting. And now they are offering a delicious lunching experience as well.
The lunch menu has some mouth-watering appetizers, from savory Wagyu beef tartar to fall-inspired pumpkin soup to perfectly grilled flatbread to an indulgent charcuterie board (pictured above) to a sweet and savory autumn squash salad. I sampled the autumn squash salad, layered with house-made ricotta cheese, fennel sage, and bitter chocolate. The brilliant addition of chocolate really delighted my palate and took simple ingredients to new heights.
The Ryland has a delectable hamburger, which I highly recommend and it is served with house made bacon jam, baby arugula, cheddar, roasted garlic aioli, and potato chips. Entrées also include tilefish, salmon, short rib Reubens, pork schnitzel, risotto, an amazing turkey breast sandwich as well as Griggstown (a favorite local farm of mine) chicken paillard Nicoise (pictured below). Additional sides can be ordered to complete your meal, including classic Brussels sprouts, broccoli rabe, and garlic Parmesan fries. Each dish is seasoned to perfection, cooked expertly, and served beautifully. All of the ingredients are precisely positioned on their plates and are exceedingly fresh.
Whether you are entertaining clients or enjoying a leisurely lunch, be sure to enjoy one of The Ryland’s tastefully prepared cocktails. I enjoyed the Gin-Tuition, a cocktail with chamomile-infused small batch gin, lime, orange, and angostura (shown here). Much like The Ryland Inn itself, the cocktail is warming, simple, and elegant.
If you have driven past The Ryland Inn wondering what the restaurant has to offer, wonder no more. Stop in for lunch and enjoy the perfect combination of appetizing dishes with professional service. I highly recommend this wonderful spot!
Note: Menu items may change on a seasonal basis.
The Ryland Inn
115 Old Highway 28
Whitehouse Station
908-534-4011
Recipe: Chef Laercio Chamon, Jr’s Roasted Long Island Duck
Looking for a new dinner recipe? Ring in the new year with this one, from Chef Laercio Chamon, Jr., (a.k.a. Junior), for roasted Long Island duck over creamy polenta—with an orange and Blue Mooney reduction. Chef Chamon recently shared it with Jersey Bites contributor Melissa Beveridge, so if you haven’t been to ZOE Bistro in Little Silver, let us bring a piece of it to you!
Prep time: 20 min
Cook time: 1 hour
Ingredients:
3 tablespoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon black pepper
1 tablespoon thyme
1 tablespoon onion power
1 whole duck (or 3 duck breasts)
4 cups polenta
1 quart chicken stock
1 quart heavy cream
1 tablespoon red pepper flakes
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 lb whole butter
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 cups Blue Mooney wine
2 cups cherries (dry or fresh)
1 cup of beef stock (optional)
Directions:
- Preheat oven to 300°F. Wash duck in cold water for 3 minutes. Place duck in a hotel pan with a cooling rack, mix salt, pepper, thyme, and onion power together then rub it on duck, spreading it all over. Place duck in over set timer for 25 minutes. (If you’re using duck breasts sear for 4 minutes on each side and let it rest for 2 minutes then slice and serve.)
- In a large sauce pan, boil chicken stock, heavy cream, red pepper flakes, chopped garlic, and 1/4 lb butter. Bring it to a boil then add polenta slowly and stirring it so it doesn’t clump up. Stir every 5 minutes on a low heat, for about 40 min. (If you’re using instant polenta, stir it for 5 minutes, til polenta becomes creamy.)
- Add Parmesan and remaining butter, salt, and pepper to taste. If needed, add warm water til polenta becomes soft again.
- In a small sauce pan place wine, cherries, and orange zest on a low heat. Cook til wine reduces like a syrup, about 20 min. (Optional: Add beef stock to sauce.)
- Place polenta on the plate the duck. Top it with sauce and enjoy!
Coming (Very) Soon: Cardinal Provisions in Asbury Park
By any account, neither Grace Crossman nor Laura Brahn should have ended up working in restaurants. “I was supposed to stay away from this industry,” Brahn said with a smile after telling me that both she and her business partner have degrees in literature.
Even though cooking wasn’t their first plan, they both found their way into restaurants and haven’t looked back. The two chefs have been working at various restaurants in Asbury Park for five years (including Porta, Pascal and Sabine, and Talula’s). Crossman also spent time working in New York City restaurants as well as on an organic farm in New Jersey.
Now the pair has decided to venture out on their own. They are opening Cardinal Provisions, a restaurant and catering business in Asbury Park, set to open in January 2016.
Cardinal Provisions will serve breakfast and lunch. It will be a full-service daytime food spot, plus they’ll have a carry-out case with grab-and-go options. The food will have an emphasis on seasonal, local ingredients and in general will slant in the healthy direction. They want to put out the kind of ingredient-focused food they like to eat during the week: lighter and fresher than what they might indulge in on the weekends. But their kitchen is also their playground, so they plan to host occasional pop-up dinners that will allow them to flex other culinary muscles that go beyond the offerings on their regular menu. Their vision is strong but still fluid enough to allow room for the pair of creative chefs to experiment.
Event catering will be a major component of their business as well. According to their website, they are interested in catering partly because they “love the temporality and excitement of the short term” and it allows them the opportunity to frequently take on new creative challenges. They enjoy crafting new, customized menus to fit the needs and personalities of their catering clients.
When I visited with Crossman and Brahn in mid November, the restaurant was a construction site. Watching the two talk about their vision was a treat. They are doing a lot of work themselves, so Cardinal Provisions is coming together on a tight budget. This is forcing the duo to get creative with their choices. They have been scouring flea markets and antique shops to source decorative fixtures for the restaurant. Their mothers have been helping hunt for interesting pieces of china. They intend to create a space that works for daytime but will also transform well for evening events. The signs in the windows were done by Steady Hand Lettering and the signage was created by Quiet Points. The exterior trim is painted a shocking bright green, while the space’s interior will be a bit more subtle. They both smiled when they described their plans for the restrooms, which are going to be playful and surprising. An antique taxidermic flamingo that came from the shooting range at Palace Amusements (and has family ties to Brahn) is going to find a home there.
As if they aren’t busy enough, Brahn and Crossman have several other projects going on. They have been recording a podcast about their experience with opening the restaurant, with a focus on the challenges of creating their vision on a budget. They are thinking about publishing a Cardinal Provisions zine in the future. They’re also selling hand-printed t-shirts featuring their logo.
Cardinal Provisions participated in the Asbury Festhalle & Biergarten’s Christmas market in December. Brahn and Crossman sold an assortment of holiday treats including preserved lemons, spiced nuts, Szechuan peppercorn peanut brittle, and German chocolate truffles. Their offerings at the market were an exciting preview of things to come. I had the opportunity to try some of the brittles and spiced nuts and it made me even more excited for the opening of their restaurant. They created something really tasty from simple ingredients and I can’t wait to experience what else they can do. I wasn’t able to try their intriguing bacon jam because when I stopped by they were sold out—for the second day in a row.
Crossman and Brahn may not have intended to become chefs, but luckily for us, they did.
Cardinal Provisions
513 Bangs Avenue
Asbury Park
A Close Look at Two Atlantic County Wineries
Go 15 miles west of the glitzy casinos, boardwalk kitsch, and crashing waves of Atlantic City, and you’ll find thousands of acres of pine forests, interspersed with small farms. The climate of Atlantic County is similar to that of the winegrowing regions of France and Italy. Since the 1860s, the area near Egg Harbor City has had vineyards, and today there are seven active wineries in Atlantic County. Although I do not have a favorite New Jersey winery, this is my favorite of the state’s wine regions, and everyone I have taken to these vineyards has left very satisfied. The Atlantic County wineries are the largest and oldest in the state, but at the same time, they are all family owned and offer very personal service.
I had the opportunity to interview Joseph Milza, of Renault Winery, and Jim Quarella, of Bellview Winery. Renault (pronounced re-NALT) is the oldest and best-known winery in New Jersey. The winery has a long and colorful history, and in recent years has blossomed into a full-fledged resort with two restaurants, a 50-room hotel, and an 18-hole golf course. In 1864, Louis Nicholas Renault planted a vineyard in Egg Harbor City using vinifera grapes from Europe. Renault Winery started selling wine in 1870, and has long been known for its champagne. During Prohibition, the winery obtained a permit from the federal government to make sacramental and medicinal wines.
In 1977, newspaper publisher Joseph Milza purchased Renault. At the time, the famed winery’s heyday had passed, and sales had slumped. Joe began the transformation of the Renault into a winery resort. In 1983, Renault opened the first of its two restaurants. Around 2000, Milza opened the Tuscany Hotel, and four years later, a vineyard-themed golf course debuted. Renault has an extensive collection of wine glass art and antique winemaking equipment. It is the only winery in the United States to make a blueberry champagne, which has become Renault’s best-selling wine. Milza noted that Renault has been making champagne long enough that the name is grandfathered, and can be called champagne rather than sparkling wine. This year, Renault won the New Jersey Governors Cup for its 2012 Merlot.
Jim Quarella is a fourth-generation farmer with a penchant for innovation. Quarella’s great-grandfather Angelo was originally from Italy, and in 1914 started a fruit and vegetable farm in Landisville. In order to keep up with global competition in the produce market, Quarella planted specialty Asian vegetables in the early 1990s. A full-scale vineyard was planted in 2000, and the following year the winery opened. Quarella stated that the biggest challenge of operating a New Jersey winery is the belief that the state only produces fruit wines or very sweet wines. In fact, dry wines from the state routinely win medals in national and international competitions.
While Bellview initially only grew three acres of grapes, it now has 40 acres under cultivation, and sells over 20 different varieties of wine, including ones like Grüner Veltliner and Blaufränkisch, which are uncommon in New Jersey. Their biggest seller is Fiesta, a blend of cranberries and red wine. Bellview is the only winery in the state and one of only a handful in the entire country to make a dandelion wine. Quarella said the wine is based on an old family recipe, and is difficult to produce, but ages very well. The winery is also exploring the use of Marzemino, a rare Northern Italian grape that is mentioned is Mozart’s opera Don Giovanni.
Both Renault and Bellview are members of the Garden State Wine Growers Association (GSWGA), and take part in numerous festivals and events each year. Of the wines that I have sampled at Renault, my favorite is its American Port. Made from Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon, the port is strong, smooth, and sweet, and would make for a nice treat while sitting by the fireplace on a winter night. At Bellview, I strongly recommend both the black currant and dandelion wines. Black currant is smooth and effervesces with the sweetness of fruit. Dandelion was just as sweet and smooth as black currant, but with an herbal kick.
Bellview Winery
150 Atlantic Street
Landisville
856-697-7172
Renault Winery
72 North Bremen Avenue
Egg Harbor City
609-965-2111
Photo at top: Antique winemaking equipment at Renault.
Alfajores from RUNA Peruvian Cuisine in Red Bank
Chef Marita Lynn from RUNA Peruvian Cuisine, Red Bank, shared her recipe for alfajores with one very lucky Melissa Beveridge. Make and enjoy these for Christmas, New Year’s, or just for you!
Alfajores
Recipe yields 50 alfajores, serves about 6
Ingredients:
2 cups all-purpose flour, sifted
¾ cup butter, room temperature
4 tablespoons powdered sugar
1 cup Manjar blanco (a.k.a. dulce de leche)*
Cookie preparation:
1. In a bowl, mix together, the flour, butter and sugar. Once mixed, use your hands to create a uniform dough. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
2. Heat the oven to 350°F.
3. On a floured surface, making sure to flour your roller, roll the dough to ½- inch thickness. Using a 2-inch round cutter, cut out alfajores and place on baking sheet.
4. Bake for 20 minutes
5. Let the Alfajores cool on a wire rack.
6. Fill the Alfajores with dulce de leche, sandwich style.
7. Dust with powdered sugar.
*Manjar Blanco/dulce de leche can be bought jarred or in a can. If you’d prefer to make your own, here’s what you need to do:
Ingredients:
1 can evaporated milk
1 can condensed milk
1 cinnamon stick
Directions:
Combine evaporated milk and condensed milk in a pan with cinnamon stick and simmer for two hours until the color changes and takes on a thick consistency.
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