Jersey Bites

Bartender’s Favorite Bite

Since Christian had wandered down-bar during our stay, we ended up being adopted by Ashley. Knowledgeable, warm, and bubbly with a great smile. When I asked about her favorite dish, she just about burst into a stream of consciousness, “the beets, the beets!”

Being a beet lover, myself I appreciated her enthusiasm but pried, “How come?”

And without skipping a beat (pun SO intended), she told me, “Because I love beets and they do them really well here. They have a little bite to them and, just, mmmm.” You could tell her mouth watered while she thought about it.

“And,” she blurted out, “the cavatelli. Did you try that tonight? Oh it’s so, so good. It’s with shiitake and enoki mushrooms, those are the super small ones with the little heads the long stem, and they are pickled so they have that little bit of bite, and it’s just so good because it’s in a light cream sauce. I really don’t even like mushrooms but this is just so gooood. It’s one of my favorite dishes.”

The Vibe and My Vantage Point

The restaurant is a lovely space—elegant and pristine. The bar is high-polish chic. It’s a large granite bar, with the staff in vests and ties. They’re friendly, with their arms tucked behind them to avoid any awkward bumping or gesturing while pouring wine from a single hang.

What Quenched My Thirst

842-Taco, $15
Espolon Anejo Tequila, cinnamon simple syrup, banana liqueur, fresh guava purée

You had me at tequila. And at banana. The rest was just cake. Even though I just knew it would be sweet, I was excited to taste this wonderful concoction of deliciousness. With many flavors I like, the least of which was guava, this sounded like another interesting mix of flavor profiles mixed into magic. It was indeed delicious—and a beautiful shade of pink. Icy cold, sweet, and spicy, with a subtle knock of smokiness from the tequila.

What Fed My Soul

Assorted, Baked Breads, Complimentary 

OMG. This was fresh-baked goodness presented in a perfect little box lined with Nicholas-printed paper. Seeded, sliced, with fresh butter, yes. Yes. Yes. I had a little of each, of course, and marveled at the tastiness of the seeds on the whole-grain roll, the ideal combo of raisins and nuts in the second, and the wonderful chew on the rustic roll. I could have stopped there. But you know I didn’t.

Flash-Seared Kanpachi, $22
Mushroom dashi, crispy wonton

Gorgeous. Fine. Delicate. Subtle. Here is a dish that makes you pay attention. Perfectly seared yellowtail, often used in sushi, in a super-light broth with lovely fresh herb tendrils and crisp wonton ribbons. Delicious, fresh, soft, and sexy on the palate. The complementary flavors ensured the fish was the star. A lovely composition and light start for what would come next!

MIND. BLOWN! I could hardly contain my excitement. My dad always said I had an adventurous palate. I remember somewhere in my late teens trying foie gras and other paté-style foods and loving them—even after I realized their origin. Tonight was no different. I ordered it like a kid at an ice cream shop getting a super-duper ice cream sundae!

The dish arrived as expected: Over. The. Top. Crushed pecans atop a large piece of foie gras, ooey-goey with the sauce, and shortbread crumbles scattered around the edges of the dish. The first bite was pure, decadent heaven: rich, sweet, salty, crunchy. And then there was the final, smooth delight as the heaviness of the foie gras lingered on the tongue. While it was too large a portion for me, given its richness and depth, this was a dish to even make the foie gras skeptic change their mind.

First Course, Sweet Potato Gnocchi
Crispy kale, spicy chipotle purée
I could hardly contain myself as the dish arrived. I dove into the mounds of crispy kale and sweet potato goodness. Nicholas knows how to balance on the very edge: he mixed flavors and textures in such a pristine way you are almost surprised each time you take a new bite. The super-faint, but ever-present kick from the chipotle brought a smile to my face every time—the same way a great joke makes you laugh again hours after you hear it. So damn good!

Located in a funky spot along Route 35, not far over the Navesink Bridge toward Middletown, but on the south side, Nicholas Harary opened in 2000 with his wife, Melissa, and created a culinary destination built to last. I’ve had the pleasure of meeting them both, briefly, during my very special first visit here, where friends treated me to the chef’s table on the lower level. Their warmth and passion were immediately apparent, and no detail is too small. The service, the presentation, care, and craftsmanship that goes into every moment at Nicholas is evident without being too fussy. The staff is warm, the bar is fun, and yes much to my disdain, there’s a large-screen TV, too!

When to Show
Dining Room Hours
Tuesday through Thursday, 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Friday and Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Bar N Hours
Tuesday through Saturday, cocktails at 5:00 p.m.

Know Before You Go!
Nicholas is open year-round. Please check the website for more information. Hours, prices, and menus are subject to change.

Restaurant Nicholas
160 Route 35 South
Red Bank, NJ 07701
(732) 345-9977

This article was not paid for, nor influenced by, the restaurant/bar featured in this column.