A restaurant’s name is important. Whether towering a busy street or adorning a quaint downtown storefront, the name and its presentation evoke an expectation, a mood, and even a price point. Maybe that’s why, despite living less than two miles away for more than 25 years, Dunellen Hotel escaped my radar. The charming Victorian home on the corner of Washington Ave. and Front St. had every indication of being a hotel. I mean, it said “Dunellen Hotel” on the sign! But thanks to a very lucky “nearby” search on Foursquare, I found out that the only room you’ll need to reserve is in your stomach.
Though it was a hotel at one point in its rich history, Dunellen Hotel has acted as a restaurant for a long time, serving delicious, humble American grub since 1925. Its history and history being made are evident as soon as you enter its doors. Upstairs, you’ll find a perfectly acceptable (albeit dated) dining room. Most recommend heading downstairs, though, to the Rathskeller. By definition, a rathskeller is a ‘beer hall or restaurant in a basement.” At Dunellen Hotel, it’s the building’s vastly superior gathering space, abuzz with lively locals sipping from the above-average beer menu and munching on complimentary popcorn while waiting for their meals. It’s undeniably warm and cozy, and unlike many modern brewpubs trying to emulate its ambiance, impressively uncontrived. This isn’t a spot for beer aficionados, but it is the venue for those who equally value the company of good food and good conversation.
The reasonably-sized (and priced!) menu offers a few unique gems among its typical fare of burgers, sandwiches, pizzas, and salads – in particular, their speciality – a lobster reuben, boasting a mound of shredded lobster and sauerkraut, bubbling over with swiss cheese on fresh rye.
The immense and consistent adulation of Dunellen Hotel’s triple onion soup is not unwarranted. It’s gotten people (including me) into the door and heightened the standards of one of my lifelong favorite foods. Unsurpassed in its richness and flavor, it’s a must-try for first course. Deep, beefy broth is molten beneath a thick crust of swiss and provolone cheeses so plentiful that they drape the sides like tapestry waiting to be pried off with your spoon. The cheese is baked atop a raft of crusty bread that maintains its integrity against the broth. The only thing holding this soup back from perfection is the sometimes-undercooked onions that I end up straining for more broth in my final bites.
Not feeling soupy? Go for the hot crab dip, baked with copious amounts of its key ingredients – crab, cheese, and Old Bay seasoning. Small enough for one but heavy enough for two, it’s served with toasted pita points that act as a perfect vessel for scooping up the last bits of the creamy mixture. Most importantly, this is crab dip, not other-stuff-dip with a hint of crab. My Baltimore-born and raised mother would be quite pleased.
The entrees have always been hits – my favorites include the Rathskeller burger (a burger topped with Jersey pork roll and American cheese), the prime rib sandwich, and the pulled pork BBQ sandwich. Most recently, though, I’ve fallen in love with the hotel pot roast. To be fair, I don’t eat or order pot roast with any degree of frequency. One particular night, however, I was craving something hearty and comforting, and what could one possibly prescribe besides a mammoth slab of meat with gravy and mashed potatoes? My eyes widened as the platter approached my table, and nearly rolled onto the table when I tasted the tender, flavorful shreds of meat. The gravy, with which they could have been a bit more generous, was silky and luscious, almost too thin to be gravy but just thick enough to disqualify itself as a glaze. I wanted to smother everything – the creamy, buttery, perfectly seasoned mashed potatoes and adequate-but-comparably-average vegetable medley – in that gravy. You likely won’t need a knife for this meal, but you’ll definitely need extra gravy (and, really, when wouldn’t you? Gravy is perfect).
The dessert menu is stacked with classics – a brownie sundae, apple pie a la mode, rice pudding, and the like. I’ve, unfortunately, never made it that far. But now that I know that Dunellen Hotel is simply a great restaurant, I have ample opportunity to return. If you’re seeking great American grub and a place to unwind over a pint with some pals, I highly recommend you stay awhile – no booking necessary.
Dunellen Hotel
120 N. Washington Ave.
Dunellen, NJ 08812
Jessica Perry is a lifelong New Jersey resident and Journalism and Media Studies graduate whose love of music, food, and writing about both have taken her far beyond the Garden State lines. She hasn’t heartwarming childhood memories of Sunday suppers, but she does have a lifelong commitment to eating across the map and fervently consuming food media. While she loves traveling and sampling from her nationwide restaurant document, little can compete with readily available pork roll and 24-hour diners. When she’s not eating, she’s at a punk show or researching where to eat en route to one. She’s always accepting recommendations for the best brunches, bagels, burritos, buffalo wings, barbecue…you get the idea. Not to mention she will happily dole out some of her own whether you’re in Long Beach, N.J. or Long Beach, Calif. – See more at: http://www.jerseybites.com/the-team/#sthash.cptivYzE.dpuf
If you are craving the more traditional glass of wine, have no fear they have those too. In Marie Nicole’s newly renovated bar don’t expect just an “ok” dining experience. This season the bar has gone through a facelift and expansion. The new interior is comfortable yet sophisticated. That’s hard to balance but Marie Nicole’s accomplishes it.
Winner this year for Best Crab Cake was Two Son’s version (formerly My Two Sons). Choosing this cake as the winner was a no brainer for me, I loved it from first bite. Deep-fried and filled with claw and lump crab meat, it was divine. Beyond the tasty meat and seasonings, the crispy panko crust was fried flawlessly. Limiting my bites to save room for other entries was definitely difficult as I found myself craving that cake hours later.
Winner in the Best of the Rest category went to The Empanada Guy and his Lobster Empanada. No argument from me on this vote, this pocket of perfection was exceptional. A fellow judge, Michele McBride of 90.5 The Night, likened it to a handheld Lobster Bisque. The Empanada Guy and his red truck had quite the line all afternoon and after eating this, I would have stood there for an hour too!
An Award of Excellence went to the Bacon on Wheels Truck for its Soft Shell Crab Taco. All the judges loved this and I was no different in paying up some praise. As a newbie soft shell eater, I realized how much I had been missing out on. I do believe it will be hard to find one as good as this version though, for the way in which it was designed and executed was outstanding. Sporting an ancho mayonnaise, a fresh tomatillo salsa verde, some cilantro and queso fresco cheese, it had us fighting for leftovers.
We ended our judging duties with a sugary surprise from Waffle De Lys- a warm Belgian waffle with fresh strawberries, chocolate drippings and fluffy whipped cream. What a sweet way to end our salty seafood duties!
A friend and I were seated in a cozy booth next the bar where we were able to admire old school candy jars filled with Bit-O-Honey candies and a skeet-ball nook that any arcade aficionado would appreciate. On a Wednesday night, every table around us was filled with smiling patrons and by the bar, groups of friends shared tid-bits from their day. We were pleasantly experiencing what felt like a Saturday evening with the vibrant crowd.
Our meal was just as memorable. Each dish was well-presented, some swoon worthy, and deeply flavorful. Chef Andino’s Classic Baked Clams, made with little neck clams from Cape May, were perfectly seasoned with garlic and herb butter and topped with just the right amount of breadcrumbs. The Belleville Beeps paid a fine homage to the classic New Jersey dish. The shrimp were succulent and well matched with the obviously fresh and tantalizingly spicy marinara sauce.
Finally what we had been waiting all evening for came to the table – Little Town NJ’s specialty Little Town Rice Balls. Our fingers were fighting to grab at each one, dipping them in a rich hollandaise sauce. Each bite was reminiscent of a deli made Taylor ham, egg and cheese breakfast sandwich and left our taste buds begging for more. We agreed that these rice balls were the sort of thing that one should have on hand in their kitchen for a rainy Saturday morning where there is no other option but to eat breakfast in bed. They were that delicious.
Last year, self-serve fro yo shops. This year, falafel joints? As easy-grab food goes, Mediterranean fare seems to be making inroads as the new healthy alternative to burgers for fast-casual diners looking for a low-cost meal that leans toward a better-for-you profile.
Garbanzo’s stated mission is to provide the “freshest, healthiest, most authentic Mediterranean food around.” They make their pita from scratch; prep copious amounts of veggies, herbs, and aromatics to create salads, sauces, and dips; and import authentic ingredients for use in their “original, unique recipes.” The result is a pretty impressive selection of flavorful, interesting fare that is well priced for a quick lunch or easy dinner.
Deanna Quinones
But it’s The Cubanoso and The Mexican Rosie Dogs that have her customers coming back for more. And at the price point of $2.50 a dog, they are getting a whole lot for their money.
Whether you order a side of nachos or rice and beans to spice things up or a Rosie Dog, you won’t be sorry. Rosie was taught to cook by her mother, whose Cuban recipes are a big influence on the way she approaches her menu.
Lisa Pisano
Terry Krongold
